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Old 03-08-2003, 10:36 AM
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Chester, VA
Posts: 77
Question need help on subframe bushings 84 300D

greetings all!

i'm attempting to change the subframe bushings on my 84 300D.
seems to be a fairly simple procedure; got richard easley's step by step description, but my first attempt had to be aborted.

jacked up the rear end (both wheels off ground - this may be the
problem, yes?) supported suspension front end with a bottle jack; removed three bolts from spider plate; relieved pressure on
jack to allow susp. to drop, but it only dropped about 1/2 inch.
prying didn't help without leaving pry bar jammed between the space and that wasn't wide enough to get my hand in there or
manipulate my removal "tool". easley's article doesn't mention
anything about raising the wheel with a jack, but i attempted that
also and that seemed to just tighten everything up.

where am i going wrong?

also the bushing kit only contains the large rubber bushing and
bolts, but not the rubber stopper on the floor. shouldn't that
be replaced also? from what i could feel, that was mighty spongey.

your revered guidance is greatfully accepted. best thing i ever
did for this car was join this forum !!!

'85 380SE (238,300) my "new" old car!
'84 300D (303,000+)
'72 250/8 (mercy heaven)
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Old 03-08-2003, 11:30 AM
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
The rear subframe bushings?

They come out the bottom, not the top, so you don't need to lower the subframe. Remove retainer plate, then pry old bushing out. Lubricate new bushing with dishwashing detergent, soapy water, or silicone spray, and shove it up until you can get the bolt started, then pull into place, remove bolt if you used a plate to pull the bushing up, and install the retainer plate.

Check the differential mount for deterioration while you are in there, too -- it may be shot.

1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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Old 03-08-2003, 11:51 AM
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 106
where did you get the parts? The top rubber should have come with the kit. If you drop the diff. mount it will all drop to give you room. The diff. mount should be changed, and it is a bear.
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Old 03-08-2003, 05:34 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Chester, VA
Posts: 77
jerry b.

got the subframe kit from fastlane. new bolts for the spider plate
and new detente fittings for both sides. no rubber stop. but i just ordered the kit without talking to phil (there you go!).

also got the diff. mount, which BTW, easley's article recommended
replacing at the same time, but says something about some clips
that need to be replaced. didn't get those because i read it after
the fact. do you know what clips he's talking about that apparently have to do with the bolts? are they destroyed when
you unbolt the diff?

thanks for the input guys.
'85 380SE (238,300) my "new" old car!
'84 300D (303,000+)
'72 250/8 (mercy heaven)
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Old 03-08-2003, 09:48 PM
jbaj007's Avatar
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Santa Monica, CA
Posts: 2,053
The clip replacement is nice, but not necessary at all, just reuse the old ones. They are the "nuts". Many times the techniques in the manual will call for replacement of a microencapsulated bolt or nut or new clip, and we just didn't get it on our parts list. That's reality. A tiny bit of Locktite here; a little tweak of a "U" clip there; and while not ideal, works out fine. Torque to spec. (high).

The Golden Rule

1984 300SD (bought new, sold it in 1988, bought it back 13 yrs. later)
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