Pull to left on Braking-Air in Lines?-1983 Mercedes 240D

My car pulls to the left on braking. I thought it was because one of the calipers had air in the lines as I just replaced the Master Cylinder and just rebled the Slave Cylinder on the Clutch.
However after bleeding the brakes yesterday, the problem persists.
I changed the brakes pads last month.

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Sticky caliper?

If it was me, I'd redo installation of pads on the "lazy" brake caliper, working the piston back and forth might loosen it up.... even get an assistant to gently apply pressure while you check caliper action while its dangling, unattached - but you wanna be careful of overextending the caliper piston.

Also instead of just bleeding the brakes, why not flush out the entire system with fresh DOT4 fluid.... assuming you havent done this already. I think the order of flushing hydraulics runs from furthest to nearest in proximity to the master cylinder.

BTW, there's partial barrier/wall between clutch and brake reservoir chambers..... so whenever you flush the brakes it wont effect the clutch at all (and vice-versa).

I had the same thing but only when braking hard. It was a stuck piston on the right side. If you're flushing the system out new brake hoses may be in order if the ones on there are original.

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1985 300D Turbo ~225k
2000 F350 (Powerstroke) 4X4, SWB, CC, SRW, 6spd ~148k
1999 International 4900, DT466e (250hp/660 ft/lbs), Allison MD3060 ~73k

Sounds like a stuck caliper. When you put in the new pads you pushed the caliper pistom into an area where it hadn't been for a long time and it may fit tight there.

Unbolt the caliper and let it hang free. Push both pistons all the way in. Put a piece of wood the approximate thickness of the rotor between the pads. Have someone push the brake pedal and see if both pistons move.

If both pistons move, they should be OK. If not, its caliper rebuild or replace time.

P E H