Well I pulled the trigger on this car. It was sitting in an Independent Mercedes repair shop--taken in trade on a newer model.
1928 240D 230,xxx miles auto, no pwr windows, no sunroof.

Here's what i've found so far--
Standing water in rear foot wells but no signs of rust. I am thinking that the rear windshield seal is leaking. I see some cracks.
Rear brakes ---terrible! So far I have replaced rear rotors and pads, and hoses. I am getting ready to replace some rusted metal brake lines. I see some rust on the brake booster, under the master cylinder. I'll probably replace the M/C and clean and repaint the booster.
Odometer stopped working after about 200 miles. I found lots of information and repaired it by "knurling" the shaft where the pot metal gear sits--pretty easy.
I changed engine oil and filter and both fuel filters and the PS fluid. I plan to do the auto trans as soon as I get the filter kit.
The engine shut off doesnt work since the odometer repair. I think I must have disturbed the vacuum lead to the key switch--I'll look into this tomorrow.
Mirrors are VERY stiff. I plan to try to free them with some WD40--any comments?
Ran out of fuel with 1/3 showing on the gauge. It onl;y took 13 gallons to fill it completely. I am guessing that there is some kind of hole in the pick up inside the tank. Any suggestions?
I think I will have a reliable car once the bugs are worked out.

1928? Wow! Or could that be 1982? Or 1892? Or 1298? Or.......

OK, so I have "typing dyslexia"

Sounds like you're pretty handy with repairs which is the key issue. All the information needed exists right here on the forum.

The water in the trunk well is due to the drains being plugged as you've probably figured out. There is a rubber washer that needs a pencil rammed through it once a year or so.

Good work so far and it is true that bugs will get worked out. My TD has settled into a very dependable car but I wondered at first.

Don

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DAILY DRIVERS:
'84 300DT 298k (Aubrey's)
'99.5 Jetta TDI IV 251k (Julie's)
'97 Jetta TDI 127k (Amber's)
'97 Jetta TDI 186k (Matt's)
'96 Passat TDI 237k (Don's
'84 300D 211k Mint (Arne- Undergoing Greasecar Conversion)

SOLD:
'82 240D 229k (Matt's - Converted-300DT w/ 4 speed

On the fuel gauge...they get gunked up with the diesel over time. You can take the sending unit out and clean it (thru the first aid kit). There is a lot of posts on this, one gives great detail on how to take it apart and clean it. If it was truly empty, it should have took more than 13 gallons (so you may have a dirty bottom tank strainer).

Good luck.

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1976 240D
1987 560SL
2007 E320 Bluetec
1998 C280 (now son’s car)
1982 240D Manual - Sold

Mike, congrats on the car!!!

Sounds like a keeper, after the work's done...sure beats doing practically the whole front end.

Just wondering, how much did you steal it for?

Thanks for all the kind words....
On every repair, I am increasingly impressed by the design and quality that went into these cars. Here, in MD, all used cars are required to be inspected prior to having tags issued. Most of the items on my repair list are from the inspector. One item was that the mirrors did not adjust. I removed and disassembled the passenger side mirror, and got it free---about an hour. As I was doing it I "discovered " the fold-back, impact feature. On the drivers's side, I merely folded the mirror against the door, which opened up the area for the WD-40--about 1 minute. I follow the Wd-40 treatment with some white lithium. But all the while, I was amused by the obvious design philosophy differences on more typical, mass produced cars where a side view mirror is probably budgeted at a manufacturing cost of a dollar or two, versus a mirror that must have cost 10-20 times that amount to produce.
Warden, when I approached the owner of the independent shop, I asked if he had any W123 chasis diesels for sale at about $1000 or so. He told me this 240 would go for $1500 inspected. I hesitated as the paint was BADLY oxidized, and the driver's seat was in POOR condition, After looking at a few other (ebay) candidates, I came back to it as there was no underbody rust, just a tiny bubble by the license plate, and a small crack by the radiator shell. After a brief test drive, I agreed to his deal. When the inspector's report came back, it required more work than the owner could put into it. Even at his cost, his time was better spent repairing customer's cars. So he dropped the price to $1000 w/o inspection. With the help of some web shopping and our friend at Fastlane, I am getting all the parts needed and doping the work. When I talked to the owner, he said he could sell me the parts and save me some money on them--rear sway bar bushings were only $15 each, ( vs $8 from Fastlane) and the rear rotors were "cheap" at $120/ pair. ( I found some at a local parts house for about $50/ pair). As for the quality of the replacement parts--if they don't last as long as the originals, I'll get the oem stuff later on--right now I can't afford to do everything oem--I got to get it on the road. I am using it for my work car--I get 34.5 cents per mile--my 6.9 liter Ford P/U costs more than twice as much to run as this car--It should pay for itself in a few months. I figure I can get all the bugs out, get it passed inspection, do all the fluids and filters and still not spend much over the original $1500 total. Where else can you get that kind of class in a car for $1500?

Amen to that! I still miss my 6.9l van, but I have another 6.9l to play with and I can't argue with the 300D's fuel mileage (not quite as good as a 240D, but I need to be able to accelerate at a halfway decent rate in the traffic around here). So far, I've needed to do some work on the front end, and more's due, but that's a nuisance more than anything else; this car's been great!

Agian, Mike, congrats!!

Just thought I'd update on how the work is coming.
The rear brakes are DONE! Rear pads, rotors, metal lines and hoses, parking brake shoes and cables. I hope to never do another parking brake replacement!
They do work as originally designed so they should pass the MD inspection w/o any problems.
I also replace the master cylinder as there was evidence of leakage and rust on the booster. I sanded off the rust, and then painted the booster with a coat of "zeroRust", and finished with a coat of gloss black.
I also replaced some of the exhaust hangers, and misc bulbs.
All thats left are the front metal lines and two windshield "stars"
After the inspection has passed and I have regular plates, I have some major detailing to do. After that, future projects are probably the steering damper, shocks and rear suspension subframe mounts.
I love this site!
Michael