hello everyone, i wonder what u guys have for oilpressure at IDLE? ofcourse when engine is WARM, and what kind of oil u use.

someone know how muck one KG is in PSI end so on?


like this
engine yearmodel: -88
engine type/#: OM 603.912
Oil quality: 10w40 semisynthetic
oil pressure @idle: 1bar
mileage of engine: 000000km


as u see ive been rebuild my engine TOTALLY, but one of the things that isnt new/replaced is the oil pump, so i wonder if i might replace it anyway...

before i rebuild it had ran about 500000km or 312000miles.....

than i had this values.

engine yearmodel: -88
engine type/#: OM 603.912
Oil quality: 10w40 semisynthetic
oil pressure @idle: 0.7bar
mileage of engine: 500000km

please help me out =) maybe there is no MAJOR FAULT with my oil pressure?

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Put that new oil pump in PRONTO -- the old one is shot. You should have 2 bar at idle (that is the pressure the oil sprays open), rising immediatly to 3 bar (pegged at the top) as you come off idle.

Never, never put a used oil pump in a newly rebuilt engine, you are asking for trouble! 300000 miles, I can guarente you it's worn, you will get low oil pressure, bad oil circulation, and excessive wear on that brand new engine......

As for oil, by brother and I use Valvoline 10W-30 for break-in (a thousand miles or so, first change after 100 miles, with filter), then synthetic Mobil 1 15W50 with 6000 mile change intervals, with filter.

You can use any diesel rated oil, but if dino oil, you need to change at 3000 mile intervals. The 603 doesn't make much soot, so you are fine there, but the dino oil additives are usually on the way out at 3000.

My 92 Chevy V6 work van has 305590 miles on it, runs fairly well (new engine mounts this week helped!), and uses a quart in 1500 miles of oil, has never had any engine work done -- oil gets changed every 3000 miles!

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

There is no conversion from Kg to PSI because they are different units. Kg is mass. PSI is pressure (force per unit area). The metric unit for pressure is Pascals. I don't know the conversion factor to PSI.

However, on some MB oil pressure gages the units are Bars. A Bar is one unit of atmospheric pressure and is approximately 15 PSI.

You should look in a MB manual for the spec on minimum oil pressure at idling. You might be OK as long as the oil pressure comes up to full scale at 1500 RPM hot.

P E H

3 bars @ 3000rpm says the manual...

or 0.5@ IDLE at LEAST!


BUT, im afraid psfred has a point in his words... =) i will see how mouch a new pump costs here in sweden... i dont think it is cheap...


otherwise i would have change it...

anyone knowing where i can find a scale of what value in OHMS the sender has at different pressures? u know what i mean?


so i can read of the senders value in ohm and compare to the cars instrument and see so it is showing a correct value?

hopefully someone understand my bad english writing... =)

Ah, Sweden. I just looked closely at that nice new looking engine, and realized it is the non-turbo version. Different oil pressures.

You should have at least 1 bar with a new engine -- my ancient 280SE runs at about 1.4 (the guage is in psi) at idle hot, gauge rises immediately to 45 psi (3 bar) off idle.

0.5 bar is too low, your old oil pump is worn and is low on pressure, or your main bearings are too loose (too much clearance). I suspect the oil pump -- as they wear they will leak internally and produce low pressure and low flow.

You probably have 3 bar at 3000 rpm, but I still think using an old pump is false economy. They are expensive, but so is repairing the main bearings again.....

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

I have noticed that the 61x turbo's have a higher oil pressure at idle than any of the 60x's I have seen.

The manual is quite clear on the minimums and as long as the gauge pegs quickly (i.e., 3 bar before you get to 3000 rpm) you should be ok.

With a total rebuild, I would certainly replace the pump, it is cheap insurance.

BTW with my 60x, I changed the pump at about 250kmi, and the pressure changed only slightly. On a hot day, after a hot run, the needle is above 1 bar at idle (700rpm +- 50). She is steady and pegs quickly (at about 2200 rpm).

Lastly, remember that the gauge in the instrument panel may not be the most accurate.

__________________
Jovan

'84 (11/83) 190D 2.2 5-Speed; Silver/Blue; Motor No. 00354, 402k mi (340+kmi mine)

'89 Porsche 911 Turbo Coupe; Black/Black; 53kmi
'05 BMW 530i 6-Speed; 302kmi
'19 Range Rover; 30kmi