I bought a pair of rear Bilstein HD's from our host and installed them after doing a search on the subject on this board. The instructions I found were excellent.

The hardware provided with the new shocks only included a single nut for the top of the shock instead of two. This nut I believe is called a 'nylock' nut as it had what appeared to be nylon in the middle. I assumed(I know) that with this type of nut, a second locknut isn't required or one would have been provided? The instructions I followed stated that you should not tighten the top nut too tight. I left about 4 threads showing above each top nut. Now to my question: Was this tight enough? I test drove it after the installation and everything felt tight and firm. I felt pretty good about doing it myself.

I read a few threads where some folks stated they were getting 125K and up before the shocks needed to be replaced. Mine were completely shot at 87K.

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2002 500SL(Black/Black)
1992 300SE(Black/Black)
1992 190E 2.3(White/Navy)
1999 VW Jetta TDI(Pearl Green)
1986 SAAB 900 Base 3 door(White)
1983 Porsche 911SC(Chiffon)
1977 VW Scirocco(DiamondSilver)

A nylock nut is self locking. however I would not rely on one for the long haul that Bilstien HDs should last. I may be wrong. But personnally I would put a second nut above it to 'lock' it.

As long as the rubber grommets are tight and SLIGHTY bulged you you should be fine. Was there a torque value given for the upper mounts?

Don't count the threads above the nut because all shocks, bushings, suspensions,grommets,washers, and fiddiehitchies are different.



thebern

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1982 240D 313,000 (4 speed)
1984 300CD 172,483
1985 German Shepherd Dog -Lacey- R.I.P.11/04/05

Hood Stars, Wrist Crowns and Obsession Dobs

TIGHTEN it ALL THE WAY . . .

For the love of Jebus, tighten that thing down till the shock starts turning (don't let it actually turn around, thats bad) you can hold the little nub on the top of the shock with a set of pliers or the like to keep it from turning. And i know this seems like a duh, but let the car back down and resting on the ground when you go in to tighten it, theres no point doing it any other way.


The worst thing to do is have that sucker come loose while driving, not a fun thing.

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2005 Audi A4 1.8T CVT -Silver/Black "Siegfried"

1982 300D - Silver/Blue "Ralph" -For Sale:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-cars-sale/119226-1982-300d-sale.html#post852260

1989 VW Diesel Jetta Blue/Blue "Bodo" RIP

Thanks all, I'll yank the seat out tonight and tighten it down! I appreciate the feedback.

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2002 500SL(Black/Black)
1992 300SE(Black/Black)
1992 190E 2.3(White/Navy)
1999 VW Jetta TDI(Pearl Green)
1986 SAAB 900 Base 3 door(White)
1983 Porsche 911SC(Chiffon)
1977 VW Scirocco(DiamondSilver)

Like thebern said, tighten until the rubber grommets are tight and slightly bulged out beyond the top/bottom shock washers/cups and that is plenty. Nylock nuts don't back off so one is fine. Don't worry about it. RT

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When all else fails, vote from the rooftops!
84' Mercedes Benz 300D Anthracite/black, 171K
03' Volkswagen Jetta TDI blue/black, 93K
93' Chevrolet C2500HD ExCab 6.5TD, Two-tone blue, 252K