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#1
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Rear end pinion seal on 1984 300 SD
I've got oil leaking out of the differential housing from the front (behind the flange). I bought a replacement pinion seal MB part # 025 997 00 47 at the dealership here and asked about the pinion nut wrench (tool to remove the nut holding the flange onto the diff) (? not sure if I understand how it all fits together, if I'm wrong, please let me know). Someone told me that MB makes a special tool just for that use and I should use it after removing the three bolts holding the pinion to the flange and before pulling the flange (so, where do I get a flange-puller for that size, anyhow, and what is it called?). Well, today the MB Direct Parts people in NYC told me that that tool isn't avail. in the US. And, I emailed mercedesshop about this and other things and was told that "You should be able to get this from any tool company. If you can get the nut size, I'm sure we can supply it." So, which is right?
Thanks. Edited for P.S.: Was planning on jacking this up, onto jack stands, get under Hilda, open the hexagonal socket plug on the right back of the housing and stick a mangetized screwdriver in there to see if any bits of metal stick, replug the plug, move back to the front of the housing, undo the bolts holding the flange on shaft, pull the flange ( what do I use for this?), use the special MB magic tool which may not exist to remove the nut, open it up, remove the seal which is probably shredded, put on the new seal I got at MB, close it up, reattach the nut and then the flange, go to the back and add 80W90 gear oil to the housing ...but the car will be on an angle so I don't know if I'll be adding too much ... and then replace the plug. If I had found lots of metal in the oil at the beginning, I'll call the mechanic and make an appointment. Is that how it goes?
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Growth for the sake of growth is the ideology of the cancer cell. -- Edward Abbey 1984 300SD: Hilda the veggie vundercar Last edited by sohj; 03-31-2003 at 03:49 PM. |
#2
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Here's what I remember from a couple of years ago when I did this.
I ended up making the tool from an old socket. I think it was an inch and a quarter??? Filed down the rim of the socket to fit the slots in the nut. You will need a new nut because the old one cannot be reused. When it was installed by the factory, they punched down the lip to keep it from coming loose. Had to take a punch to remove the piece that was punched down and then was able to remove the nut. As for the flange it does not require a puller, it slides right off once the nut is removed. I'm assuming by the flange you mean the three armed gizmo that attaches to the flex disc. You'll have to drop the drive shaft to get to flange. Might want to inspect the flex disk(s) while you have the drive shaft off. Like all the rubber parts on the Benz they go bad on these old cars. JV |
#3
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jonvee,
Can you find that socket and tell us the size?
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Michael McGuire 83 300d 01 vw A4 TDI 66 Chevy Corsa 68 GMC V6 w/oD 86 300E |
#4
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Hi
A friend of mine helped me change that seal on my diff, an 87 300d, (124) . On that it was a 30mm socket and he had to lengthen the socket for it to fit over the pinion properly. This he did in a lathe, parted (or split the socket in two) and then welded in a length of tube as an extension. better make sure from someone else though. gerard |
#5
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I've attached a pix of the nut. The outer diameter is one and a half inches. You can file down the edges of the socket, ending up with four prongs to fit in the four slots of the nut. Buy one of the cheapest sockets you can find. Makes the filing easier because of the cheap metal they use to make the socket.
Also notice the section on the inner rim of the nut where I removed the piece that was bent in to secure the nut. JV |
#6
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Thanks,
I'll look out for a 1.5" OD socket at my next flee market. Michael
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Michael McGuire 83 300d 01 vw A4 TDI 66 Chevy Corsa 68 GMC V6 w/oD 86 300E |
#7
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Hey jonvee!
About that socket tool: how long is it? I would prefer to avoid any welding.
Thanks. The steps are : Drain the oil, Drop the rear end of the driveshaft, punch the edge of the nut, remove it with the tool, remove the seal clean up and pass a strong magnet around to remove any bits of steel, install the new seal install the new nut fill with gear oil. I observe that Mobil-1 makes a synthetic gearlube (smells as funky as the dino stuff), and that it is probably worth the three or four buck extra. THANKS!
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Semibodacious Transmogrifications a Specialty 1990 300D 2.5 Turbo sedan 171K (Rudolf) 1985 300D Turbo TD Wagon 219K (Remuda) "Time flies like and arrow, yet fruit flies like a banana" ---Marx (Groucho) |
#8
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Hey jonvee!
About that socket tool: how long is it? I would prefer to avoid any welding.
Thanks. The steps are : Drain the oil, make the tool, using the new nut as a template, Drop the rear end of the driveshaft, punch the edge of the nut, remove it with the tool, remove the seal clean up and pass a strong magnet around to remove any bits of steel, install the new seal install the new nut fill with gear oil. I observe that Mobil-1 makes a synthetic gearlube (smells as funky as the dino stuff), and that it is probably worth the three or four bucks extra. It will probably spend a really long time in there. THANKS!
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Semibodacious Transmogrifications a Specialty 1990 300D 2.5 Turbo sedan 171K (Rudolf) 1985 300D Turbo TD Wagon 219K (Remuda) "Time flies like and arrow, yet fruit flies like a banana" ---Marx (Groucho) |
#9
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Standard socket about 2 or 3 inches deep. The four prongs are 1/2 to 3/4 inches. I used this on a 126 model. No welding, no lathe!
Yes, the synthetic gearlube is worth the extra money. If fact, you might want to change it after a couple of weeks as it really cleans all the old gunk out. JV |
#10
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I know this is late but for future searches.
This is the tool you need http://www.samstagsales.com/SirTool/stm_0026.htm And this is the company to check for future tool finding problems. However you may not like the prices. http://www.samstagsales.com/mercedes.htm Dave
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1970 220D, owned 1980-1990 1980 240D, owned 1990-1992 1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993 1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004 1999 E300, owned 1999-2003 1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD 1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995 1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons) 1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004 2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver 1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold) 2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car |
#11
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A picture of the tool
Dave
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1970 220D, owned 1980-1990 1980 240D, owned 1990-1992 1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993 1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004 1999 E300, owned 1999-2003 1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD 1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995 1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons) 1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004 2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver 1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold) 2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car |
#12
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Dave,
Since you're in Colleyville, I'll just come by and borrow yours! JV |
#13
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The dimensions of the Sir tool M0026 are:
A = 41.50mm (length) B = 35.00mm (diameter) C= 7.50mm (probably the depth, but this seems unimportant) They want $59.95 (American dollars!), plus shipping for this, which means I will pay a visit to the pulguero (flea market) and buy an old socket to furgle, thereby saving time and deutschmarks, euros, whatever. I have a grinder and will be on the lookout for a fine Asian socket to grind. Thanks!
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Semibodacious Transmogrifications a Specialty 1990 300D 2.5 Turbo sedan 171K (Rudolf) 1985 300D Turbo TD Wagon 219K (Remuda) "Time flies like and arrow, yet fruit flies like a banana" ---Marx (Groucho) |
#14
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tightening up the nut
I hear no mention above on how to re-tighten the nut - I recall somewhere that under the seal is a collapsible seal which if the nut is overtightened will collapse - ?
Steve |
#15
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Call it dumb luck, but I didn't see any other seal. Looked like a generic seal. I just tightened the nut to the specified ft-lbs and it hasn't leaked since. (3+ years)
JV |
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