I'm stuck. My ignition/key won't turn. I've tried everything I know...the gearshift selector is in park. I did notice that I can take the key out of the ignition when the car is in "Drive." Does that mean my ignition is shot?

Also, thanks to all the guys who gave me the straight scoop on the injector pump. Very helpful.

83 300 SD 170K

Rock the steering wheel back and forth a couple of times while you try to turn the key. Sometimes the steering lock gets cocked and hangs it up.

JCD

Yes, I tried that too. No luck.

There's a couple of things you can try, and try them because having to force it out is expensive. Try vibrating the key, either by going spastic, or using a vibrating tool like a sander, or holding it against the case of a drill, or an electric massager if you have one. Also flood (use lots) it with WD40. Repeat until you run out of patience then do it again. Do a search on this site, this has happened before and there may be some more tricks you can try. I would go now and buy a new tumbler. On my 190e the new tumbler was $70 with a key. Go to a dealer and show proof of ownership and the VIN and you'll ket one in a few days thats keyed like the old one. Changing them isn't too hard, IF you can turn the key.

I just got it working! I had it towed in and gave it one last try. The darn thing still would not turn. So them I dropped it into drive, let it roll back about a foot, and sure enough, that did it. Anyone have any ideas? Bad interlock? Worn tranny?

Gawlapd,

The key switch (not ignition switch) is not tied into the transmission, only the steering lock.

Transmission has a switch so it can only be started in Park or Neutral.

P E H

Okay, I think I figured it out. After reading the previous thread, I think I know how this occurred since the ignition lock is linked only to the steering wheel.

Even though I moved the gear selector and the ignition freed up, I think that was mere coincidence as I was leaning on the steering wheel from the passenger side, thus unlocking the whole thing as I turned the key.

When I had first parked it in an angled parking slot two days ago, I had allowed the right front wheel to touch the curb firmly, and then, I didn't set the parking brake before putting it in Park, or at all for that matter, thus locking the steering wheel firmly against the transmission resistance and the interlock as the car leaned further into the curb of its own weight and the taking up of the existing transmission slack. The only way to free it up would have been to push it away from the curb by hand, or, as I did in this case, have it towed.

"I solemnly vow to set the parking brake before putting it in Park ever again."

So is the tumbler nice and tight? If it feels loose at all it may be wise to just replace the tumbler on principal as it is a major job to replace it once it is froze, but when it is free there isn't much work to do. My 84 has gave me a few warnings, I bought a undefined tumbler but my local locksmith refuses to do anything to it so I guess I'll have to get the VIN cut one.

__________________
Jeff M.
Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here.
1983 / 1984 300D Sold
2000 CLK430 Cabriolet ~58k Sold
2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k

I got a VIN cut key from the dealer/stealer and it didn't work. They wouldn't give my $30 back either. They said all the locks must have been changed. FAT chance.

They did get me another key made from the original key. YUP another $30. It was the type of key that couldn't be made on a standard key cutting machine.

BEWARE

P E H

Both ignition keys for 200E kompressor 2001 in not starting the car; only functioning as remote to open the doors. Now using the last plastic reserve to start the car. HELP with info and suggestion please.

On the older cars, the tumblers can wear - if your key sticks, it is a NASTY job to drill out & replace. If your key is sticking, NOW is the time to order a new tumbler from the dealer (it comes with a new steel key) and replace it BEFORE it locks up totally. I've heard of this costing literally hundreds of dollars to repair at a locksmith after it's frozen up. If you do it before it's bad, it's ~$75 and maybe 15 minutes of your time.

Tip: ONLY use original steel keys. Copies are brass, and you'll notice a little pile of brass shavings under the lock cylinder. The steel keys don't wear like that. Sometimes a new VIN-coded key will cure a "sticky" lock that was only acting up because the key being used was a worn-out brass copy. Mercedes sells a nice little pressurized tube of lock lube, which is the ONLY thing to use for lubricating the later-model high-security locks (201/124, etc). It's part number 001-989-26-51-10 and is ~$12 list price.

PEH - If you get a VIN-cut key that doesn't work, and you are POSITIVE your locks are original, go back and raise all hell. I had this problem too but I had one of the original steel master keys to prove I was right. Their lock code records are not 100% accurate, and they can reverse-engineer your original key to get the proper code & update their database, and get you a new (correct) key. Only problem would be if your original is too worn out for them to get the code from. I'd talk to the service manager at least, you should not have to pay twice for their screwup. If you're really ticked & the SM is a jerk, go to the zone rep and be nice to him.


Regards,

__________________
Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

I figured that my 22yr old car has been started AT LEAST 50,000 times. We still had the original keys when we got the car, and we really had to wiggle them to get them to work. I was thinking of replacing the tumblers, but decided to try to get a new key cut first (they looked worn). It works great! One of the grooves looks a little wider than the original key, and when I asked about it at the keycutters, she said that would be better if the tumbler was a little worn. She was right. I haven't had a problem since.

Good luck!

__________________
Natalie

Natalie, if that is a brass copy, I'd keep that as a spare and buy a dealer VIN-cut steel key for daily use. If you keep using the brass key, just keep a close eye on the tumbler operation... someone on the MBZ.org diesel list had a great photo of what happens when you do finally need to cut it out, but the site is down.

__________________
Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

GSXR,

That was many years ago that the VIN cut key didn't work so its too late now. I guess I should have more forceful at the time.

I didn't wamt to give the original to make the copy the first time because I wouldn't have been able to use the car until the new key came in. So I waited until winter when this car is never used to get the key copied.

P E H

gsxr, I have no idea if the key is brass or not. I paid $5, so it probably is. But aren't most keys from most cars made from this material? I have had keys cut on many differnent cars I have owned, and narry a problem. Is it the longivity of these cars that leads to the problem? With the other cars, the tumblers outlive the car?

Anyway, thanks for the tip. I will check in to it.

__________________
Natalie