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#1
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transmission help.
i drained and changed my transmission fluid today. i couldn't get access to the torque converter so i thought i'd just do the fuild pan. most is better than nothing.
so i went under the car and looked to where the trans dip stick goes to. removed a lug by a hex wrench and drained it. now the questions: i only got about 2 quarts out. that was it. i thought they hold 5.5 quarts in the pan alone. did i need to drain another part? 2nd: fluid was always an inch above the 2 tick marks. but this is when cold. will the fluid level go down when the trans is hot? i changed the fluid to Mobil 1 Synthetic. i should have not problems right? thanks for any replies |
#2
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What car is it?
I don't know Ned - I would definitely go back and drain the torque converter too. The amount you got out of the pan sounds about right if all you did was drain the pan. When you remove the pan to replace the filter you will get some out and a little more when you remove the filter. I don't think you will get the full benefits of the fluid change without changing all of it and the filter.
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Jim |
#3
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When I changed my trans fluid for the first time what drained out of the pan was nice a red and looked clean..... I thought it was a waste doing it. Then when I drained torque converter the fluid was brown and burned looking so evidentally it doesn't circulate too much. I would go ahead and do it right if I were you.
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1985 300D Turbo ~225k 2000 F350 (Powerstroke) 4X4, SWB, CC, SRW, 6spd ~148k 1999 International 4900, DT466e (250hp/660 ft/lbs), Allison MD3060 ~73k |
#4
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the car is a 84 300sd. i was looking around for the torque converter. and is it before the trans fluid pan (i mean in between the engine and the trans) i saw this one square hole is this where the drain plug is? it looked kinda like a pain to find where the plug is by rotating it. but i'll give it a try. and since i already drain the pan. do i need to redo it? synthetic cost about $5 a pop!, if i just did it yesterday and it doesn't circulate much i don't want to do it again. thanks
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#5
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Ned - I would recommend changing it all even though the synthetic is $5/qt. You are looking in the right spot but will need to rotate the engine manually (always in direction that it normally turns) until the torque converter drain plug is at the bottom. It takes the same size allen wrench as the pan drain plug.
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Jim |
#6
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How do you turn the engine manualy?
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#7
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Yeah.. what is the best way to turn the engine manually. I don't want to use the starter. I rather turn it slowly so I can see the bolt.
Thanks,
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85 300D Turbo |
#8
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Quote:
As to the original post, checking the level cold and not running is not correct. Changing just the fluid in the pan is OK, and for an older transmission in good operating condition may be preferred IMHO. Slow (but repeated, say with engine oil changes), low volume vs total change could be better. Switching to synthetics in older situations is not what I would do personally. Figure your past the point of really extending the life of whatever system your putting it in, rather just asking to incite leaks.
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But what do I know... 1984 300SD 256k |
#9
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The proper way to check it is with it at operating temp, after its been sitting for a couple of minutes with the engine running, correct? When I do it this way The fluid is about an inch above the full mark. It runs smoothly(rebuilt recently before my brother bought it a year ago. ). I know too much fluid is bad so do I just use the drain plug to remove about a half quart or so?
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Seth 1984 300D 225K 1985 300D Donor body 1985 300D Turbo 165K. Totaled. Donor Engine. It runs!!! 1980 300SD 311K My New Baby. 1979 BMW 633csi 62K+++? Dead odo |
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