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#61
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The Mobil oils sold in the USA are not identical to the oils sold in Europe and elsewhere. Which is better? That's a good question... after Mobil's recent marketing disaster (going from about 6 variants available to something like 15 now), it's a real nuisance to figure out what the heck they're selling. If you really care, go read up at the forums here: www.bobistheoilguy.com
Regardless, I prefer Mobil Delvac-1 5W-40 for all my Mercedes (and non-Mercedes, too). It's now also marketed as "Turbo Diesel Truck" oil, available at Wal-Mart in gallon jugs (NOT five quarts) for something like $24, cheaper than most places charge for Delvac-1 (go figure). |
#62
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Several years ago I sprung for a 55 gal barrel of Amsoil, 15w-40 Marine Diesel oil. Cant remember the exact price but it was considerably cheaper than buying it by the quart and it was delivered to my shop. I also bought a life time supply of "100/1", two cycle oil for chain saws and such.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#63
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Steve,
I use Amsoil 2 cycle 100/1 oil for my chain saws too. How that tiny amount of oil can lubricate a hot air cooled engine running 10,000 RPM amazes me. But the chain saws seem to like it and run with practically no smoke. A quart will treat 25 gallons of gasoline. It also amazes me how any dillution of oil can lubricate an engine. How long would a car or truck engine run with the oil diluted even 10/1? I only bought a quart of the Amsoil 2 cycle oil but that might last 5 years. Buying a quart cost a lot less than the oz. packets the dealer wanted to sell to me. I paid about $9 for the quart. P E H |
#64
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Quote:
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#65
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I'm not trying to be smart, I'm asking for information.
If Rotella is such a distant relative of the "better" oils, as I've seen three or four people state, then what's wrong with it? If it's not good oil, why have so many farm tractors and such survived on it for who knows how many years now? Rotella is (or used to be) almost synonomous with "diesel tractor"... and if there's a piece of machinery that tends to be undermaintained or put to rough service, it's your typical John Deere out there... so how do they survive if they need better oil? Basically... it's kept my 603 alive for a while and it's kept our tractor alive for fifty years... so what's it hurting? |
#66
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It is not hurting a dang thing. Rotella is VERY GOOD Diesel-rated oil. You cannot go wrong with 15W-40 Rotella in these cars.
People get all wrapped around the axle when it comes to oil and it's quite ridiculous. Change it hot, change it regularly (3K might be overkill, I've always done 5K w/o any problems) in these old Diesels and you won't have any oil-related problems. |
#67
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Quote:
Rotella Syn, btw, is not a true synthetic... it's better than the dino stuff, but inferior to the true Group IV/V syns like M-1, Amsoil, RedLine, etc. It's also priced accordingly. I used this for a while and wasn't impressed... I would not use Rotella Syn any longer than standard Rotella, i.e., the same 3-5kmi limit still applies. For the record, I use M-1 5W-40, changed every 10kmi in my diesels, with oil analysis every 10k (yeah, probably overkill, but it's relatively cheap when you only change the oil once per year, lol!) The analysis says the M-1 could likely go to 15k or 20k before it reaches the limits of TBN and F-Soot but I don't rack up enough miles to bother with that... |
#68
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Thanks, that's kind of the opinion I've got myself.
I'm not changing to synthetic. I have too many leaks, first of all, without the funds or the time to repair them at the moment (going to college in 3 weeks). I'm not interested in an extended drain interval at all, I am absolutely religious about changing everything according to the manuals - which means the mercedes gets its dino 15w40 Rotella every 5k and the other 4 on the farm (all fords) get their 3k changes from my dad. I change it religiously, hot, and often so it seems fine to keep running it. The Benz seems to like it and I like the price tag, since I'm willing to change it at the appropriate interval. |
#69
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Oil? Delo 400 15W40 CJ, Valvoline super blue 15W 40 CH,CJ, Rotella 15 W 40 CH, CJ,...... ADD Lucas oil stabiliser "Kepp that engine alive" Oil Filter=MANN Made in germany for Mercedes Benz!
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#70
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My personal first choice is Mobil delvac 1 5W-40 synthetic or Mobil 1 5W-40 Turbodiesel truck synthetic (same oil different package) Second choice is Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40. A lot of people don't like Rotella synthetic because it isn't as good of a base stock but it is FAR BETTER than any dino oil and better than most any synthetic from the 80s/early 90s.
As far as dino oils, I agree with post of the reccomendations earlier in this thread about 15W-40 oils. I will also add that most Mobil dino oils also have a CD rating which is better than the diesel ratings from 1985 and you can get a 10W-40 CD rated oil from Mobil if you want something thinner than 15W-40 in the cold but don't want to go with a synthetic. Personally, I use the synthetic oils all year around because it places less strain on the starting system. For filters, I usually use the Fram oil filter in my W123s. From the construction quality, I suspect that it is not made by Fram, just sold by them. It's the only filter from Fram that I will use. All of the other Fram filters that I have ever seen are junk.
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Ron Schroeder '85 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO '83 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO Some former WVO vehicles since ~1980: '83 Mercedes 240D '80 Audi 4000D '83 ISUZU Pup '70 SAAB 99 with Kubota diesel '76 Honda Civic with Kubota diesel '86 Golf Several diesel generators All with 2 tank WVO conversion LI NY |
#71
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I hate to ask this
Here in FL it is hot as balls most of the time. My local Mall-Mart doesn't sell Mobile 1 in Xw40 weight ( I think)
they have 5w30, and i think 5w50 now. and maybe 10w/30, I am pretty sure I am not supposed to use the 5w/30 but why I do not know. After reading these threads, it looks like I can go with the 5W/50. I have no oil leaks... I would like to keep using Mobil 1 synthetic. Any takers??? Again, my deepest apologies for keeping this alive.
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85 300CD Turbo "Das Polluter" 230K sold for $3,000 98 BMW 323is |
#72
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Wal-Mart recently started carrying the Mobil-1 5W-40 in gallon jugs, and might also have the 15W-50 in 5-qt jugs. Either one is fine, the 5W-40 is probably a little better base stock, IMO.
You're not supposed to use xW-30 because it's too thin for Mercedes engines. That thin stuff is only approved for use when the highest ambient temp is something like 40°F... probably OK for use in Alaska. In Florida, stick with xW-40 and xW-50 (although as mentioned earlier, I do NOT recommend the 0W-40 stuff.) Avoid 5W-50, that sounds like Castrol, not Mobil-1. |
#73
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I would still go with 5W-40 in the summer in FL. After all, if the cooling system is working properly, the engine temperature should stabilize at the same temperature that it does up here in NY.
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Ron Schroeder '85 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO '83 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO Some former WVO vehicles since ~1980: '83 Mercedes 240D '80 Audi 4000D '83 ISUZU Pup '70 SAAB 99 with Kubota diesel '76 Honda Civic with Kubota diesel '86 Golf Several diesel generators All with 2 tank WVO conversion LI NY |
#74
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I checked Wal-Mecca today
At Mall-Mart they don't carry any Mobil 1 XW-40 synthetic. But They do have the 15W-50 Mobil 1 synthetic.
They do have Rotella 10W-40 in synthetic and regular which I might go with next time.
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85 300CD Turbo "Das Polluter" 230K sold for $3,000 98 BMW 323is |
#75
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Spugeddy,
Some walmarts have 5W40 Mobil I oil. I just bought some for $19.95 for a 5 quart jug. P E H |
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