It took forever (2 hours) for my first time, but each valve adjustment gets faster. I do them in the order as the cam rotates to the upper right position. I used bent wrenches but I wished I had that 3rd Hazet wrench to keep the valve from turning. I rotated the camshaft with a 27 MM racket wrench underneath the car. It seems that the fan just got in the way. Every valve was very tight. I am glad I did it, Now, on to the brake pads.

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85 300CD Signal Red/Tan sold
83 300D Manganese Brown 109K
97 E420 Midnight Blue 197K sold
98 BMW 328i Vert White 100K, sold
95 BMW 525i White 125K, sold
93 BMW 525iT Red 193K, sold
95 E320 Green Wagon 125K, sold
94 E320 White 127K, sold
85 300SD 156K Grey (Annie), sold
84 300D Lapis Blue 170K (Judy), sold
99 ML 320 Black (lease), 1998 C230 White (lease)
00 Honda S2000 Red (lease)
86 Mercedes 300E (sold)
84 Porsche 911 Red (sold), 1965 Porsche 911 White (sold)

The brakes on a Benz are super easy. Just make sure you change pads one at a time.

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Orland Park, IL
1985 300SD 215,000 miles

Just adjusted the valves on my 300D his morning. Getting better at it, only took 1 1/4 this time. Took some time getting the valve cover off. I have a question, I see diesel leaking from the fuel line on a glow plug. Do I have to tighten it down or do I have to replace the fuel line. It looks gleaming wet. Thanks.

Probably need to get the pictures out and identify exactly what is leaking.... no fuel lines go to the glow plugs....

edge

Most likely your leak is from the black flexible return lines that run from injector to injector. If thats the case get a meter or so and replace them all. Its not very expensive.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Stevo, I think it's the Injector Bypass Hose. It's leaking where it meets the injector. Do I screw it down tighter? How do these things seal from injector to injector? Thanks.

These return lines just loose their grip with time. If you replace one then go ahead and replace the whole set. Use only the line made for this purpose. Be sure that the nozzles onto which they attach are dry when installing.

What's the procedure for replacing these lines?

Yank 'em off.

Don't use a knife to cut them, that can nick the barb on the injector and they'll forever leak. Use pliers to yank them, or "pinch" the part on the side of the barb to break it off. It will take 1 meter of new hose to replace ALL of them, including the section to the fuel filter lines. When you're done, it's nice to pressure wash the engine, that way you can easily tell if the leak is stopped.

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Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

You forgot 'slide on the new hose.'

Sixto
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD

Dont forget the end cap for the last one.

one last tip...To put the new ones on Grasp the hose about 1/4" from the end with a stout pair of needle nose plyres (sp ?) and PUSH it on the nipple, dont hold back..... Let us know

Stevo

Can you give me the instructions on how to adjust the valves. I used to do it on tractor engines. 4 cylinders and such, never did it on a five cylinder before.

Thanks

There may be a big difference between a John Deere
and a Mercedes, but there is little difference between
adjusting the valves on a four vs. five cylinder Mercedes.
I offered the following advice in response to a similiar
question about three weeks ago, and to my suprise nobody
disagreed. The only difference is that a turbo (your
car) has a .35mm clearence for exhaust rather than
.3mm for the non-turbo models.
I adjusted the valves on my 300sd using two open
end 14mm wrenches. The special wrenches would
probably make the job a little easier and I would
get them if I worked on MBs for a living. I think the
78 is similar to my 82, and the Haynes Manual says
the clearence is .1mm on the intake and .3mm for
exhaust, engine cold. The feeler gauge should
slide with a very slight resistance. This is the hard
part, since you must keep the adjusting nut from
turning once it is in the desired spot as you tighten
the locking nut. I don't have a torque spec for
the locking nut but if it is too loose it can turn
back further when the engine is running and reduce
clearence to the point of the valve hitting the piston.
If you apply excessive force you can strip the threads
on the valvestem. I tightened mine pretty hard,
but can't really say to what torque. The job should
not be hurried. Mark T 82' 300SD 280K