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#1
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Two lower balljoints DONE!
Well today I tackled the lower balljoints. One was loose and both needed boots. Its really quite a simple job just a little time consuming. I thought removing the old joints would be the hard part.... A couple good whacks with the mini sledge and they popped right out. Rented the balljoint press from PP and it is worth every penny. VERY impressive tool and it works so well its almost enjoyable. The first side took almost 3 hours as I was taking my time. The second was under 45 minutes. If anyone is putting off this repair thinking its too tough go ahead and do it. Its a easy job just takes some time and the press rental. RT
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When all else fails, vote from the rooftops! 84' Mercedes Benz 300D Anthracite/black, 171K 03' Volkswagen Jetta TDI blue/black, 93K 93' Chevrolet C2500HD ExCab 6.5TD, Two-tone blue, 252K |
#2
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RW,
Did the press come with the correct adapters? My daily driver (190 D 2.2 W201) is going to need a front suspension refresh. I've heard you can fabricate a press tool or use an old socket. Sholin
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What else, '73 MB 280 SEL (Lt Blue) Daily driver: '84 190D 2.2 5 spd. |
#3
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I believe he used the OE tool which requires no adapters. You can use the AutoZone free rental tool instead (on a 123 chassis), but that requires removal of the spindle from the car, and removal of the dust boot on the ball joint. The OE tool is really sweet though.
Your car is a 201 chassis which has a TOTALLY different ball joint setup. That may work with the AutoZone rental tool as well - your car has the ball joint pressed into the lower control arm, where RT's was pressed into the spindle. Apples & oranges, you see. |
#4
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I used the OEM type tool, rented from Performance Products. No need to remove the balljoint boot. Removed spindles from car. Since I had to remove the rotor/hubs, backing plate, etc. anyway just popping the upper joint and you can do the work on a bench-much easier. The OEM tool is really slick though. $50 well spent IMHO. RT
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When all else fails, vote from the rooftops! 84' Mercedes Benz 300D Anthracite/black, 171K 03' Volkswagen Jetta TDI blue/black, 93K 93' Chevrolet C2500HD ExCab 6.5TD, Two-tone blue, 252K |
#5
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RT and Dave,
Can you use the PP tool with the upper balljoint attached and without taking the rotor off the spindle? Does the same tool remove the old balljoint or does a big hammer and nautical vocabulary take care of that? Thanks, Sixto 91 300SE 87 300SDL 83 300SD |
#6
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Sixto,
The PP tool won't clear the hub/rotor and the sheetmetal backing plate must be removed too but that is only 3 small capscrews. I suppose you could use the press with the upper balljoint still attached but I don't see how you would get the old one out. To remove the old balljoint I laid the spindle on a piece of wood, stood on it to hold it down and smacked the center of the balljoint with a mini-sledge. One good shot gets it moving. Then I positioned the spindle still on the wood/ground and against a concrete wall with another piece of wood between the spindle and the wall to protect it. I then used a 1"x8" section of bronze propshaft from a boat as a punch to finish knocking it out with the sledge. You have to hit it pretty hard but not so hard that you would damage the spindle. 6-10 good shots and the joint pops out. Clean the socket and press in the new one. Fairly easy IMHO. RT
__________________
When all else fails, vote from the rooftops! 84' Mercedes Benz 300D Anthracite/black, 171K 03' Volkswagen Jetta TDI blue/black, 93K 93' Chevrolet C2500HD ExCab 6.5TD, Two-tone blue, 252K |
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