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  #1  
Old 04-23-2003, 12:24 AM
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Location: Houston, Texas USA
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1984 300SD Springs

Is it normal for a 300SD to tilt when a 190 pound man sits in the car? My 1984 300SD has 131,000 miles, new Bilstein shocks, and is in good condition, but when I sit in it, the vehicle tilts. Jacob Wissler Jr http://www.jacobwissler.com

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  #2  
Old 04-23-2003, 12:27 AM
edge's Avatar
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Is it the car or just the seat spring?
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  #3  
Old 04-23-2003, 01:41 AM
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More likely the shocks are shot than the springs...
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  #4  
Old 04-23-2003, 06:22 AM
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300SD Leans

The entire driver side of the vehicle is a bit lower when I sit in the car. If I get out and walk around the car and sit in the passenger seat, that side of the car then sinks down a bit. The shocks (Bilstein) were just replaced. The vehicle handles well and tire wear is normal. Jacob Wissler Jr http://www.jacobwissler.com
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  #5  
Old 04-23-2003, 09:52 AM
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Jacob,

That sounds normal. When you apply force to a spring, it compresses proportional to its coefficient of ......duh...... springeyness. Someone help me with the correct word.

The shocks, which really are dampers, don't control vehicle height, they damp the oscillating motion of the springs, which are the true shock absorbers.

P E H
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  #6  
Old 04-23-2003, 11:43 AM
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neue Dieseler
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: san francisco - immer kalt, immer windig, I want to move
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my 87

My 87 is the same chassis and has a similar issue, but the imbalance is not so much right to left as it is front to back. Since I normally drive, I really don't notice it too much. But yesterday, my 180 pound wife (60 of it is a baby due in late july) drove while I followed in the other car.

The car was slightly lower on her side, and definately lower in the back than it should have been. Trunck was empty.

I called a part supplier, and he said the rear springs on 126s are notorious for aging poorly. He also drives a 126 and just replaced the springs (with the heavy duty) and said that the difference was amazing.

So I ordered some springs. It will be a few weeks til I can get them in, but I will get some before and after pictures and measurements to confirm what I suspect- my rear springs are shot.

alec
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84 300TD - 235k - Farbe "Surfblau" bought at 213k
87 300SDL - 131k - Farbe "PimpGold" bought at 115k
00 Klepper Faltboot Expedition Double
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  #7  
Old 04-23-2003, 01:51 PM
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New Springs

How much do new springs (for 126 300SD) cost and how many hours labor to install? This sounds expensive.
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  #8  
Old 04-23-2003, 02:00 PM
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Rear springs are $65-70 each from FastLane.

With the right spring compression tool it's a pretty easy job. You can probably replace them in an hour each taking your time. I don't think anything other than the shock has to come off in a 126. Maybe the sway bar link so the trailing arm can drop as much as possible.

Sixto
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD
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  #9  
Old 04-23-2003, 02:16 PM
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tool rental

Sixto has it about right from what I have heard.

The guy at the parts place said it was basically required to use a spring compressor. Rental is $75 for three weeks. Rusty.mbz.org and ************************ both have compressor rentals, but there may be a waiting list of a few weeks to get on the list.

My friend who has a subaru wrx has changed all the springs on his car a couple of times at a local shop. I think he usually pays around $200 for the installation. That is just a ballpark if you do not do it yourself- it might be much higher if you don't have a good relationship with your local shop.

For the record, the subaru owner (who knows everything about cars except how to repair them) told me that it was fairly common on performance cars to replace the shocks and springs at the same time...usually around 100K miles on a high performance car. I am not sure if that means anything at all to us MB owners, but that is what he said.

I will be doing it myown installation in a few weeks.

alec
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84 300TD - 235k - Farbe "Surfblau" bought at 213k
87 300SDL - 131k - Farbe "PimpGold" bought at 115k
00 Klepper Faltboot Expedition Double
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  #10  
Old 04-23-2003, 02:39 PM
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Front or rear springs?

Do I need to replace the front springs at the same time I replace the rear?
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  #11  
Old 04-23-2003, 03:32 PM
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I doubt it

I am not planning to replace my front springs (at this time).

Currently, when viewed from the back, the rear wheels angle in towards each other like this //-----o------\\

nice rendition of an axle.

Meanwhile, the front tires are always ||-----o-----||

even under high load.

Based on the visual evidence, and what 5 or so other people have said, I am going for the rear springs only.

For the record, I have already put in
- 4 new bilstien shocks
-
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  #12  
Old 04-23-2003, 03:32 PM
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neue Dieseler
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: san francisco - immer kalt, immer windig, I want to move
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I doubt it

I am not planning to replace my front springs (at this time).

Currently, when viewed from the back, the rear wheels angle in towards each other like this //-----o------\\

nice rendition of an axle, the lean is not that severe, but it is very noticeable.

Meanwhile, the front tires are always ||-----------||

even under high load.

Based on the visual evidence, and what 5 or so other people have said, I am going for the rear springs only.

For the record, I have already put in
- 4 new bilstien shocks
- new tires
- new rear subframe mounts
- completely rebuilt front end
- rear sway bar links
- I think that is about it that could possibly be related....

alec
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84 300TD - 235k - Farbe "Surfblau" bought at 213k
87 300SDL - 131k - Farbe "PimpGold" bought at 115k
00 Klepper Faltboot Expedition Double
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  #13  
Old 04-24-2003, 03:01 AM
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Jacob,

It is not necessary the change rear and front springs at the same time but they should always be repaced in pairs side to side.

A cheap fix is to get "Load Lifters" (LL) or whatever they are called. These are wedges that are 'screwed' between the coils of the springs. I carry heavy loads frequently and these LL work for me. LL should be available from a generic auto parts store for a couple of dollars. LL are turned into the springs (with load off the spring) with a 1/2 inch ratchet with extension. Put a little grease on the LL to make them easier to turn.

P E H

Last edited by P.E.Haiges; 04-24-2003 at 03:08 AM.
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  #14  
Old 05-12-2003, 04:33 PM
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neue Dieseler
 
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Location: san francisco - immer kalt, immer windig, I want to move
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I finally got mine in

So I finally got my new rear springs in. The guy at the parts counter talked me into the "heavy duty" springs, and I think it was a good idea.

It took 3 hours, 2.25 for the first, 30 minutes for the second. A little hair raising with the spring compressor at the beginning, but not bad once you get the hang of it ($75 rental fee was worth it).

Results: The handling is better, maybe much better, but I haven't had a chance to really push it. The /----0----\ view from the rear is completely straightened out, and under load, it doesn't seem to drop the way that it used to. The car is level or even slightly higher in the rear, compared to before where the front wheel well was higher than the rear.

All in all, I am really pleased. My SDL looks like it should.

alec
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84 300TD - 235k - Farbe "Surfblau" bought at 213k
87 300SDL - 131k - Farbe "PimpGold" bought at 115k
00 Klepper Faltboot Expedition Double
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  #15  
Old 05-12-2003, 04:38 PM
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I replaced the shocks and subframe mounts in my SDL and now it sits high in the rear. The rear wheels are ever so slightly in the \==0==/ mode like an old VW or a Heckflosse with a bad compensator spring. I hope it settles with time.

Sixto
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD

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