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my new [used] 84 300SD
Hi, I just bought my first MB, and I'm very exited and also full of fear as I have never owned a mb diesel before. I have been hanging around the board for about a month, trying to learn all I could as I was looking for a car. I found one I like, It runs good, stops straight,no ac, black with tan inside. 234,000 miles, 3,500.00 bucks. any feedback would be great. LOL, I still don't know witch oil to use,as all arguments over this subject were very intense and I learned more about oil then I could have imagined. thanks so much steve lewis
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#2
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Steve,
Welcome aboard. You have just bought one of the most dependable cars ever made. What you want to do right away, especially if you have no service records for the car, is get the valve adjustment and timing chain stretch checked. An independent shop should charge no more that an hour's labor for this. This needs to be done every 15,000 miles, give or take a few. Another thing to do is to change the oil, hot and ofter as our esteemed Larry Bible says, and be sure to use diesel-rated oil. Any oil such as Shell Rotella and Chevron Delo will work. You will need almost 2 gallons per change. When you pull the top off the oil filter cannister, you will see a long steel tube pressed into the cover. At the bottom of that tube there are two small O-rings. They are very inexpensive, but often neglected and become hard as glass. Replace if necessary. Feel free to do a search in the archives to learn more about this car. These are just the basics, and as you drive this car you will gain more confidence and will want to do more to tweak it to get the full performance that was designed into it. Believe me, it will grow on you. We have two 300Ds, and I'm looking for an SD myself to replace the Crown Vic. Glad to see you've got one!
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Nate Stanley (Currently Benzless) 1985 F-250 6.9l 170K 2009 SCION XB 36.5K 2003 LS430 78K 2012 Kubota B 2320 |
#3
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I would also change the filters: air, oil, main and in-line fuel, power steering, and the fluids: bleed brakes, oil, ATF, differrential, plug the ERG, and you're rearing to go...
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85 300CD Signal Red/Tan sold 83 300D Manganese Brown 109K 97 E420 Midnight Blue 197K sold 98 BMW 328i Vert White 100K, sold 95 BMW 525i White 125K, sold 93 BMW 525iT Red 193K, sold 95 E320 Green Wagon 125K, sold 94 E320 White 127K, sold 85 300SD 156K Grey (Annie), sold 84 300D Lapis Blue 170K (Judy), sold 99 ML 320 Black (lease), 1998 C230 White (lease) 00 Honda S2000 Red (lease) 86 Mercedes 300E (sold) 84 Porsche 911 Red (sold), 1965 Porsche 911 White (sold) Last edited by edge; 04-20-2003 at 01:47 PM. |
#4
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300sd
thank you so much for your reply, as I am very new to this. I will do all that is recommended has it is very obvious to me you people know what to do next. I can't wait to get the car, and start to learn all there is to know, I guess I will also get a manual as I will be doing as many repairs as I can do hopefully with the boards help. thanks again. steve lewis
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#5
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Visit Thomaspin's web site. Cars and technical. Lots of good info there.
http://www.pindelski.com/ Regards
__________________
Regards Warren Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL ENTER > = (HP RPN) Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. |
#6
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I was looking at the car today and while laying down next to it. I could see oil stains on the exaust pipe and the muffler. Does any on know what this could be? It seems like alot of blow by, Could it be the rear main seal? I still have not bought the car yet, I'm trying to get a feel for it and I can't, as I don't know enough about MB's. Please exuse my inexperience, I really want the car, but I'm afraid I'm getting into a nightmare. 235,000 miles steve
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#7
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Ok, I'll bite. Maybe this hasn't been said in the past month. You need to find a Mercedes-Benz specialist and pay them to do a pre-purchase inspection for you. Having us diagnose oil leaks second hand over the internet to help you decide whether or not to spend thousands of dollars is not a good practice. The W126 can be a fantastic automobile or a money pit. Please, please, PLEASE, get a PPI.
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Rick Miley 2014 Tesla Model S 2018 Tesla Model 3 2017 Nissan LEAF Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro Chain Elongation References |
#8
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Plus remember that the 617 rear main seal can't be replaced without removing the crank.
Sixto 91 300SE 87 300SDL 83 300SD |
#9
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I think you can replace the bottom half of the rear main seal without removing the crank.
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#10
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how does it shift?
SteveLewis,
How does the trans shift? what about looking under the floor mats for signs of rust (indication of drains plugged and flooded footwells) also what about looking in the trunk for signs of rust (leaky windshield seal)? Anyways, sounds like it is a good deal. 234,000 miles?! pfffft. As most MB diesel owners will attest to -- it is just broken in! Welcome aboard to the clakety-clak club. It's MUSIC to my ears!
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Frank 84 500SEL EURO 101K ( JUST LIKE MY 1ST WIFE. GLAD TO GET RID OF HER! ) 85 300D 310K (sold) 90 350SDL 184K sold 83 300D 118K (sold) 88 300E 153k (sold) 93 400E 105K (sold) |
#11
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thanks again for all the replys, I will have it checked out by a MB spec. steve
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#12
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Having replaced a bad rear main seal on my 126, I would say that it doesn't nessecarily sound to me that you have a bad rear seal. It is most likely just the oil trap dripping oil. Usually those need some attention after that many miles.
First thing (after your PPI) is to remove the air cleaner assemply and clean it thoroughly. Clean the trap also. Clean the breather hose. Then replace the o-ring on the tube that runs from the bottom of the cleaner assembly down to the oil pan. Lots of leaks occur there. You can stop a lot of them by doing this. I have never looked under the hood of an 84, but I hope they have the same setup as the one described here... |
#13
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thank you rick miley, following your advice, I went on a search for a mb spec. to look at my new car before I bought it. Not only did I find one but he has an 83 300sd for sale and the same price as the other one [$3,500.00] and he is willing to go through it to the point I finely have a good feeling about buying a 20 year old car. I sat and talked to him for about 2 hours and learned more about mb. He took me back down behind his house, and to my surprise, 40 to 50 mb's in the pine woods. Cars from mid 60's to early 90's part cars and wrecks. It was truly a trip into one persons obsession with mercedes-benzs cars . This is really starting to be fun. steve lewis
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#14
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__________________
Rick Miley 2014 Tesla Model S 2018 Tesla Model 3 2017 Nissan LEAF Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro Chain Elongation References |
#15
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GET A PPI!
You need to have the car fully checked over...of great importance is the diesel compression test which will tell you what shape the engine's in...there should be a list somewhere on this site giving the "inventory" of stuff a PPI should consist of.
A Masschusetts area poster is Holson Adi, in the Boston area...contact him for ideas on who could do an honest PPI. This is a good...put not great...price. If the inspection turns up something bad, you should factor that in. Get checked for RUST. Get a copy of "The Mercedes-Benz Buyer's Guide" (Frank Barrett) which has LOTS of useful tips. These CAN BE great cars...consider this website, which is nothing more than a collection of service tips for cars which...had they been "normal"...would have been scrap ages ago. I personally think the '80s SDs are the equals of the Duesenberg, Marmon, Packard, or any great car of yore...but on the other side, you want to avoid having to fix it if you can avoid doing so. Maintain it, and if its basically solid...it will last forever...maybe the LAST car built we could say that about. Good luck! |
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