Well I am trying to install a new vacuum valve at the ignition switch to get my car to shut off. As usual, I cannot get at the screws to remove the old unit either through the instrument cluster OR under the dash. I need to either rotate the ignition mechanism 90 degrees counterclockwise to get at the screws. I can't seem to free the mechanism. Oterwise I need to remove the upper dashboard to get at the screws. My Haynes give instructions for removal of everything other than the upper dash, of course. Your help is appreciated.

__________________
85 300CD Signal Red/Tan sold
83 300D Manganese Brown 109K
97 E420 Midnight Blue 197K sold
98 BMW 328i Vert White 100K, sold
95 BMW 525i White 125K, sold
93 BMW 525iT Red 193K, sold
95 E320 Green Wagon 125K, sold
94 E320 White 127K, sold
85 300SD 156K Grey (Annie), sold
84 300D Lapis Blue 170K (Judy), sold
99 ML 320 Black (lease), 1998 C230 White (lease)
00 Honda S2000 Red (lease)
86 Mercedes 300E (sold)
84 Porsche 911 Red (sold), 1965 Porsche 911 White (sold)

edge why do you think the whole valve is bad if i may ask? i had the same no shutoff thing and i replaced the 2 rubber extensions that attach to the vaccum lines at the valve. this you can do by pulling out the instrument cluster and the kick panel under the steering column so you can reach in from above and below to get the new connectors on the valve.
the rubber extensions were very soft and oily. new ones solved the problem along with drilling the source tee connector in the brake booster line...

__________________
1984 300D Turbo - 231k....totalled 11/30/07 RIP

84300DT,

I get vacuum preesuure on all lines under the hood. I don't have a major vacuum problem as all door locks and everthing else seems to work. That leaves the two vacuum valves. I replaced the vacuum valve at the IP last week and the engine shut off with a little delay. Then a couple of days later, engine fails to shut off again. So I mess with the two vacuum lines at the igintion and it works for a day and then same damn problem. At this stage, my wife refuses to drive the "jalopy" (84300D) and I think the vacuum valve at the ignition is probably sticking most of the time. I get vacuum at the "T" also. What else could it be?

__________________
85 300CD Signal Red/Tan sold
83 300D Manganese Brown 109K
97 E420 Midnight Blue 197K sold
98 BMW 328i Vert White 100K, sold
95 BMW 525i White 125K, sold
93 BMW 525iT Red 193K, sold
95 E320 Green Wagon 125K, sold
94 E320 White 127K, sold
85 300SD 156K Grey (Annie), sold
84 300D Lapis Blue 170K (Judy), sold
99 ML 320 Black (lease), 1998 C230 White (lease)
00 Honda S2000 Red (lease)
86 Mercedes 300E (sold)
84 Porsche 911 Red (sold), 1965 Porsche 911 White (sold)

i see your point edge - guess it would not hurt to replace those 2 rubber connecting hoses that connect to the valve at the ignition switch. i put on a slightly smaller diameter ones than the originals for a real tight fit cause i figured everything gets heated up in there in the summer etc. it partially solved my problem and certainly easier than pulling the ignition switch.
also you can isolate that vacuum 'circuit' directly from the source to test it. that is disconnect the vacuum going into the climate control stuff so you just have it going up through the ignition and back down to the shutoff valve on the IP.
that's how i knew at least in my case the shutoff valve at the IP was good.
you might try that first.

__________________
1984 300D Turbo - 231k....totalled 11/30/07 RIP

Gee, I guess no one here has removed the dashboard. It must be complicated. Well I install the vacuum valve at the ignition switch and the car shuts down. I won't have to torch the sucker. Now, hopefully on to bigger and better things unless that shut off demon from hell comes back!

great you were able to get the problem solved. so in the end you were able to install a new valve at the ignition with out removing the dash? that must have involved some maneuvering

__________________
1984 300D Turbo - 231k....totalled 11/30/07 RIP

It took me 2 hours of trying to get a tiny screwdriver or a ratchet with a scredriver head in there to no avail, no room! I called my indy who said he couldn't do it today but that it was a bear to remove unless you had tiny hands. I was trying to loosen the ignition mechanism and rotate it to get access to the screws or even removing the dash but I couldn't figure how to. I finally went to Sears hardware and picked up a small spinning thread gizmo that could hold a screwdriver head to get the damn valve out! Finally, it shuts down to give me peace of mind. Now the wife doesn't get a new car and I save $600 per month in this wretched economy.

it's maddening isn't it? it was driving me nuts as well (and the wife wouldn't drive it either...LOL) . trust you will never have to see that part again.
just for your info i was also getting partial vacuum from the tee in the brake booster but drilling it out carefully made a big difference in all vacuum related stuff in the car including the shutoff. drilling the 2nd tee enabled vacuum to the tranny which wasn't getting any at all .. these cars do shift by vacuum right?..
hehe.

__________________
1984 300D Turbo - 231k....totalled 11/30/07 RIP

I replaced this valve on my 80 300D without much trouble and without taking the dash out of the car. I simply pulled the whole ignition switch assembly. It took about an hour to get the switch out, replace the valve and put the whole thing back together.

Mike

__________________
Mike

'80 300D
'84 300D
'85 300D
'87 300D

For future reference, what do you have to undo to take out the ignition assembly.

Take off the kick panel and remove the instrument cluster. Remove the tumbler from the ignition switch. Remove the two bolts under the instrument cluster that hold the steering column in place. Remove the collar around the ignition switch assembly and the whole thing should come out. That is the process in a nutshell. It isn't hard.

Mike

__________________
Mike

'80 300D
'84 300D
'85 300D
'87 300D