Brake bleed disaster - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

adiaw83 · #16 05-07-2003, 10:59 PM

thanks for all the info. An easy out kit seams like its the way to go. Does anyone know if they have those at autozones because that is what i have closest to me. Is the car drivable in this condition? I'm assuming not. Sorry about the confusion but i snapped the hole bleed screw, nipple and the bolt part and there is a hole in the center that i can feel . I think i might as well go ahead and get four new bleed screws. Thanks for all the replies

leathermang · #17 05-07-2003, 11:08 PM

"Is the car drivable in this condition? I'm assuming not"

If you were through bleeding.. and it is in the tightened position and no fluid comes out when you apply the brakes hard.. then you MAY be safe driving it...

But I would not...if I had ANY questions about it... not worth the chance... anyway... don't you think you will feel better if you do some walking/ penance for putting that gorrilla wrench to it ?

PS, I did not mean to offend any gorrillas out there.. so don't email me....

Did you hear the one about the 800 pound gorrilla who could play golf ? His trainer bets a guy the gorrilla can beat him playing golf... the guy hits his ball 300 yards and is very satisfied... the gorrilla gets up and hits the ball 500 yards ( par 5 hole) and it lands 6 inches from the hole... The man , disgusted, just pays off on the bet... but when walking away thinks to ask how the gorilla putts...... and the trainer says " just like he drives"... 500 yards...

#18 05-07-2003, 11:26 PM

Gorilla joke punchline revision -"... and the trainer said, 'hell, that was his putt.'"

My qualifications for Gorilla commentary
- snapped valve cover bolt
- snapped oil pan bolt
- snapped alda adjustment screw
- busted transmission neutral safety switch
(all I'm willing to admit for now)

leathermang · #19 05-07-2003, 11:36 PM

That list is way funnier than the Gorilla joke.... WHat in the world is going on ? Have you done a Dr.Phil and done an autopsy on the failed relationship you had with those items... ?
That is a lot of extra work represented in getting those fixed.

kweimer · #20 05-07-2003, 11:44 PM

Sounds like the simple option is to go to your local pull-a-part and get a used left rear caliper for $11. Or better yet, get all four---never hurts to have a spare set of calipers.

#21 05-07-2003, 11:48 PM

The rehabilitation process for correcting Gorilla-itis is repairing the damage. The end result was the purchase of a "quality" torque wrench. As for the neutral safety switch, it was just plain easy to break.

leathermang · #22 05-07-2003, 11:49 PM

I am with Jim ... I have always read that changes are always done on a per axle basis... both rear, both front... never one side at a time...

Brad123D · #23 05-08-2003, 12:03 AM

At some point in the past I remember seeing a universal bleeder repair kit available. You drill out the bleeder with the proper bit and tap it with a 1/8th(I think?) pipe tap and this gives you a new bleeder AND sealing surface. I think they are brass also-never rust again!
Just another option...

adiaw83 · #24 05-08-2003, 02:29 AM

how much does a torque wrench go for?

xjpart2 · #25 05-08-2003, 03:06 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by adiaw83
thanks for all the info. An easy out kit seams like its the way to go. Does anyone know if they have those at autozones because that is what i have closest to me. Is the car drivable in this condition? I'm assuming not. Sorry about the confusion but i snapped the hole bleed screw, nipple and the bolt part and there is a hole in the center that i can feel . I think i might as well go ahead and get four new bleed screws. Thanks for all the replies

i would by-pass the auto zone ez-outs and buy craftsman, snap-on, mac, or other quality tool manufacturer. a cheap one will usually snap on you, and they are not fun to drill out. i would spray the area around the bleeder screw with some PB Blaster the day before. then try the other methods mentioned.also another thing to try is locking down some vice grips(real vice grips work much better than the generic made in china ones) on the remains of the bleeder screw and give her a few light taps with a hammer

a decent torque wrench (3/8" drive) will set you back around $80-100.

Hunter

Ralph69220d · #26 01-29-2006, 11:31 AM

As a general comment when loosening/removing screws bolts: apply penetrant and let sit over nite; it also doesn't hurt to lightly tap with a hammer to help the penetrant penetrate. Also, when the pipe thread begins to break, then reverse and re-tighten, apply more penetrant, loosen again (should come out a little further) and repeat these steps til she come's out.

Brian Carlton · #27 01-29-2006, 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ralph69220d

As a general comment when loosening/removing screws bolts: apply penetrant and let sit over nite; it also doesn't hurt to lightly tap with a hammer to help the penetrant penetrate. Also, when the pipe thread begins to break, then reverse and re-tighten, apply more penetrant, loosen again (should come out a little further) and repeat these steps til she come's out.

Ralph, the bleeder screws are not pipe threads. They are straight threads and the tapered seat of the screw is the point of friction. Once the seat is broken, the bleeder screw typically unthreads with ease.

Now, you may already realize this, however, you posted the response on a thread dedicated to brake bleeder screws.........and it seems a bit out of place here.

mobetta · #28 03-16-2006, 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

They will also make it harder to use this method because they will make a hole more like a National pipe thread...bigger on one end... .... which is to get a left handed tap with the proper size drill... you tap it, stick a left handed bolt into it.. and when it tightens down it then turns the item out... Don't use too long a bolt because you don't want to go past the inside of the nipple..... ( assuming the original had right hand threads ) ...
That may sound like a strange thing to mention to you young guys .. but many cars had left hand threads on the wheel lug nuts on one side of the car.... with the theory that the wheel turning that direction would cause them to back out.... silly thought now.... but you do have to know which way your problem is threaded for some things....

the way the wheel turns going(forward) down the road is tight.
old mopars, up thru 1990's in mid to heavy trucks, to name a few. my '95 osh kosh has left hand threads on the drivers side. I learned this when working on 18 wheelers... nobody told me, they just gave me the 1" impact and said "go take that tire off...."

blueranger · #29 03-16-2006, 09:42 PM

wow guys,
disreguard the spraying the caliper with any thing... with the niple broken
you have an opening to the brake system... you dont want wd40 in your
brake fluid... so dont spray it with anything.... just use the easy out and
see if the niple will come out... if not buy another caliper from the junk yard
or get a new one from here....

next time dont bleed the brakes... it is not necessary to bleed the brakes...
all you need is a large C clamp to push the piston back into its hole... then put in the new pads.... they dont even bleed brakes at the shop... a professional brake shop uses a hydralic clamp to push back the pistons... they do this becasue niples brake off all the time... i have broken a niple or two myself....before i got the big C clamp...

oh, now you see why these nuts are crazy telling you to change your brake fluid......

t walgamuth · #30 03-16-2006, 10:31 PM

this is crazy. if you broke it on the tightening and it is not leaking dont worry about it. just get a new or good used caliper and hold it in reserve and change at your leasure.

that is if it isnt leaking.

tom w