What I posted earlier about the single-piston caliper is not at all clear. The real issue is whether the piston(s) are on one side of the caliper or on both sides opposing each other. Clear as mud now, right?

Single piston? C-clam on piston. Dual piston? C-clamp on brake pad for even force. All the while with the bleed screw open. When you are done, have someone help you burp it. No fuss here.

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01 Ford Excursion Powerstroke
99 E300 Turbodiesel
91 Vette with 383 motor
05 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI
06 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Red
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Yellow
04 Tailgator 21 ft Toy Hauler
11 Harley Davidson 883 SuperLow

man, the reason for using a c clamp or using a screw driver
is to keep from opening the brake system... leave the nipple alone..
leave it alone...

But if you don't, aren't you pushing and junk back into the lines?

__________________
01 Ford Excursion Powerstroke
99 E300 Turbodiesel
91 Vette with 383 motor
05 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI
06 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Red
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Yellow
04 Tailgator 21 ft Toy Hauler
11 Harley Davidson 883 SuperLow

are you referring to?

it is a sealed system. it wont hurt to bleed it a bit but it doesnt seem necessary. if you change the fluid from time to time that would most likely be enough.

if you have torn boots on the calipers then some water might get in, but remember every time you push on the brakes whatever is trying to get into it is being pushed out under a lot of pressure.

my $.02

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

If you have the wheels off the vehicle and are changing the pads, it would seem like the opportune time to change the brake fluid?

In reality, what's the probability that the fluid was in the system less than two years when you change pads?? For most of us, I'd say that we go longer than two years on pads.

OK. So why does the brake fluid become black after a few of years?

__________________
01 Ford Excursion Powerstroke
99 E300 Turbodiesel
91 Vette with 383 motor
05 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI
06 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Red
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Yellow
04 Tailgator 21 ft Toy Hauler
11 Harley Davidson 883 SuperLow

Seems like every time I have to change pads it isn't time yet for a fluid change. When I have to flush, it isn't time to change pads.

I think I get about a year on a set of pads

__________________
01 Ford Excursion Powerstroke
99 E300 Turbodiesel
91 Vette with 383 motor
05 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI
06 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Red
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Yellow
04 Tailgator 21 ft Toy Hauler
11 Harley Davidson 883 SuperLow

obliviously we are a forum of do it yourselvers...
and obliviously most are not qualified to open the brake system..
and this fellow exemplfies this, so just do what the book says,
and what the diy section of this forum says and what midas
does and that is use a C clamp... if our friend here would
have used a C clamp he would not have this problem..

Yes, 20 years ago we use to spend 12 hours on a brake job bleeding
back before we wised up and got a C clamp.... today we do half
the work... bleeding brakes is like shaving with a straight razor...

you got to be very anal to change your brake fluid... if your changing
your brake fluid I would bet that your washing the bottom of your car.

there is so much more to life, get out there, get involved in a community project, plant a tree, read a book, help an old lady across the street with the
time you will save by just using the C clamp...

the black junk in the system comes from deterioration and normal wear of the rubber parts, mostly.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I want to share what I do to try to prevent the bleeder nightmare thing if I suspect I will own the car for a long time. First time I have to loosen them I remove the bleeder screw and apply a little no seize around the perimeter threads. This happens usually just after I purchase a car and flush the brake system out.Next take about an inch of fuel line hose. Or whatever length is good for you. Can be new or used it really does not matter but try to find a size that fits on the bleeder screw snug. Coat the hex head and exposed shank with heavy grease. I even put some grease in the piece of fuel line hose. Slide it on and top it off with a little more grease on top. Next time you go for the bleeders just pull fuel tube off and wash off with brake cleaner or any solvent. The hex head is not rusted and the shank area is the same plus that screw is going to back off pretty easy. Or at least much easier that if you leave them exposed to the weather. Reinstall the hose segments with fresh grease when you are done of course. It might pay to use a high temperature grease as well. For guys that believe in preventative (we all should by the way when dealing with older cars especially) things you can even apply the grease and fuel hose on your bleeders anytime. It should make things easier sometime in the future as those bleeders are going to have to be opened one way or another eventually. Best of all it's free or about as close as you are going to get in this world. You fellows do lube your door hardware periotically as well as all lock cylinders with appropiate lubricants? Keeps them working far better and less wear occurs and remember these cars are getting older so it will pay off. Never neglect to lubricate the pivot point of the hood hinges either or they might notify you a lubrication is overdue when they rip the pivot assembly out of the metal of the body and your hood no longer works properly. Thats what they do when they seize on 123 bodies. Takes about two minutes or less to lube them perhaps once a year but can be hours to get a sound repair after they tear out. Happens just often enough to pay attention and so easy to prevent.

Methinks so too. When you crack open the bleeder, what happens? It empies the reservior. So, the question is where is the lowest point of the system? The caliper, right? Now, with your screwdriver or C-clamp, what are you doing? Pushing the crap back into the lines. Now, if this is one of your throwaway cars or you are going to sell it soon, sure. If you are going to keep it, I would want that crap out of my system.

__________________
01 Ford Excursion Powerstroke
99 E300 Turbodiesel
91 Vette with 383 motor
05 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI
06 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Red
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Yellow
04 Tailgator 21 ft Toy Hauler
11 Harley Davidson 883 SuperLow

Why is it that people who do not possess the good judgement to maintain a car think they are qualified to judge and insult other people?

Once again, read the book. Keep clean fluids in your car including clean brake fluid. If you don't understand why water in your brake lines is a problem, don't work on your brakes, get help.

Your brake hydraulics are not a sealed system, the reservoir is vented. Brake fluid has a limited life when exposed to air (moisture). Note that if you read instructions you will see a recommendation to use brake fluid only from a sealed container.

The warning "use brake fluid only from a sealed container" has always been somewhat confusing to me. Does this mean only use brake fluid newly purchased with the seal ( foil membrane) as well as the cap in place, or does it simply mean always cap the brake fluid bottle ( well duh!).

First seems overkill, the second interpretation seems to be common sense.

So what does "use brake fluid only from a sealed container." mean?

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