'84 300TDT rear shocks done...EASY!
 

My poor wife was puting up with the "bouncing ball" ride on her wagon for some time. We took the plunge and bought two new rear struts/shock absorbers and the two new resevoirs. I jacked up the car enough to have 6 inches between the bottom of the rear tires and the garage floor. I removed the rear carpet and panel and the two square hose access plugs. I un-did the hyd lines but left the fitting between the shock and hyd line on for now. I put my floor jack under the rear tire and jacked it up about an inch from bottom. The top shock bolts are tough as they are have loctite on them and only take a 5mm allen wrench to un-do them. I took a ball-peen hammer and tapped the tops of these bolts to break loose the loctite. They came loose after that. I then removed the fitting between the shock and the hyd line. (I left it in place to hold the shock from spinning while removing the top allen bolt). I then un-did the two bottom bolts on the shock and slid it out.
I took the new strut and clamped the bottom end GENTLY in my vice. I laid it somewhat sideways. I took a small funnel and wrapped some tape around the spout so it would fit snuggly and seal into the shock hyd hose opening. With the help of a friend, we poured oil into the shock while I SLOWLY pulled it out. I went back and forth several times to make sure that I pumped all of the air out. Once full, I put back in the Factory plastic protective plug in the shock to hold the oil. I have heard that these are supposd to be self bleeding but I don't see how when the only line to the shock is the highest point. I CAREFULLY re-installed the shock, the top and bottom mounting bolts, the fitting and the line. THEN, I let the jack out from under the wheel. I repeated the same thing for the other side.
The small metal "BOMBS" were easy to replace.
I started the car, made sure to have plenty of HYD oil in the tank and went under the car and bled the level valve off. I also un-hooked one side of the control lever from the valve and moved it up and down to actuate the suspension up and down. Once I was satisfied it was working good, I went to each shock and "cracked" each fitting with the engine off until the shock let down some. This, I figured, would let out any remaining air that might be trapped in the shock. I repeated it on the other side. I checked around for any leaks, washed the underside of any oil and put the rear carpet and cover piece back in.
All in All... it wasn't very hard at all. It took minimum tools and about 2 hours. I decided to replace the resivoirs because I didn't know their condition and didn't want to take a chance if they had some crud in them that would end up in the shock.

Very good narrative, easy to understand. I have a similar vehicle and appreciate your input. Well done, good luck.

And.........................the result of your fine work?

...but...but...but how's the ride???

How did you come to the conclusion that you needed to replace the shocks themselves and not just the accumulators? I have read on this forum, that if the shocks are not leaking, the problem is the accumulators. Were your shocks leaking? Did you keep your old accumulators? Someone on the forum said they can be recharged.

Big red, Zoonhollis, The ride was restored to new car feel. Only one shock had some seepage. The shocks were the culprit because even with oil in them, they didn't have any dampening. The "balls" didn't look like there was any place to recharge them and for the extra $150.,...... my wife is worth that. I didn't test them but they also didn't seem to have any residual pressure on them when I dis-connected them. The car doesn't squat now with the engine off like it used to. Now the only thing in the back to worry about is the valve.