Ok,
I've searched this forum and can't seem to find any info on my tranny issue.
(1991 350 sdl)
When I start the car for the first time each day or anytime after it has been sitting more than 8 hours it does the same thing. The tranny feels like it's slipping (higher rpm to produce momentum). This happens in forward or reverse, after car starts moving, all gears shift normally.
I have since figured out that if I start the car and rev the RPMs to about 2k for about 30 seconds then back to idle before I put it in gear, the transmission performs normally. Could this be a vacum issue? I'm stumped.

Thanks in advance for any help, this forum has been a great resource.

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83 TD wagon "Madge" PO's given name. 410k (150k engine)

It is called a K-1 shift kit, easily installed and was cheap!

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1960 190D (college car), gone
1995 E300D, 325 k
2019 LEXUS UX 250h (spouse mobile)
2003 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland 3.0L MB diesel, 185K
1978 GMC Classic Motor Home

the part number for the K1 spring kit is : A 126 270 4477 . cost me about 10bucks from the dealer about a month ago.



here is a nice DIY blog which covers the job:

Mercedes w123 Maintenance


my W124 with 722.4 has developed a 2-3 flare this winter. it flares only when the engine/transmission are cold, but after about5-6miles(engine/trans get nice and hot) the flaring goes away.

to b52: did the new k1 sring kit help fix your 2-3 flare? was your trans constantly flaring ?

constantly flaring and it did fix it.that was 10 years ago. The kit is available at Pelican Parts, about $10.00

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1960 190D (college car), gone
1995 E300D, 325 k
2019 LEXUS UX 250h (spouse mobile)
2003 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland 3.0L MB diesel, 185K
1978 GMC Classic Motor Home

Still going on the same trans? 100,000 miles later -- nice. The K1 goes in the valve body. THere are a bunch of spring kits that go in the valve body. The gist is, if the k1 and various springs don't fix it, a clean rebuilt valve body is easy to swap out and can help a lot if you start having shifting problems and extend the life of the tranny. As someone said, a stuck valve in the valve body will cause all kinds of issues that make it seem like a bad transmission. The problem is a good valve body is hard to find . But you can get one for 400.00 from a transmission place online last i checked. And if it doesn't fix it, you can still use it when you get the transmission rebuilt.

when we had a bunch of tranny's rebuilt, reverse had finally gone out. I had to get a new valve body fore one of them but it was hard for the tranny shop to get. He finally found one for 150.00 and it all worked.

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What Would Rudolph Do?
1975 300D, 1975 240D, 1985 300SD, 1997 300D, 2005 E320 , 2006 Toyota Prius

What would you speculate (anyone is open to answer) if a 722.303 were to shift firmly when cold but slip when at operating temp? Let's say it even has good days and bad days.

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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge