i just got done sifting through a long search on "blower motor" and i did not find satisfaction, so i'm here.

the blower used to work well. eventually stopped. heat works, AC would probably work if i hadn't cut the belt to replace a different one, haha. but no blow.

if you take it out, and spin it once, and then turn the blower on .... it will wiggle a bit then stall. if you spin it, it will take and keep going, speed up, speed down, no problem. so turn it off, then back on, and maybe it will work. again maybe, then it will stop working and you'll have to spin it to start it again.

last year i had someone who has a clue (not me) fiddle with it, i believe "filed the brushes" was the attempted fix. obviously that didn't get the job done.

so.

i'd rather not spend $165 down at benz friends for a refurb blower. any suggestions?

an idle conversation with someone whose car i was looking at a few months back brought up the possibility of "the bushing" failing somehow, any comment on that?

edit: forgot to mention - '81 240d

thanks

--Nick

How about a new motor from FastLane for about $150?

Sixto
95 S420
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD

filing the brushes, or at least taking the blower out and taking it apart then putting it back in, made it work for like 3 days.

i've gotta make SOMETHING work to get some ventilation. it was over 90 degrees today and a 20 minute ride in the car resulted in 17 minutes of continuously dripping of sweat off my elbows. i've got windows that dont roll down, a sunroof that wont open, and a blower that wont blow. i'm prayin for rain.


--Nick

I didn't think you had to pray for rain in Seattle

Sixto
95 S420
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD

Filing brushes will only help if the commutator that they contact is also in decent shape. Need to make sure each segment of the commutator is still seperate from it's neighbor segment, and that there isn't a deep groove worn around the diameter of the commutator from years of use. If there's no real wear, you can take something like an exacto knife and carefully scrape between each commutator segment to make sure the copper isn't mushed over, causing a short. Then take some fine grit sandpaper and clean them up until they look like copper again. Then use an air blast to clean off the grit and dirt.
The brushes may also be worn down so short that there isn't sufficient length to allow the springs behind them to make good contact between the brushes and the commutator. If the brushes are long enough, and the springs are in good shape, this stuff should make sure your getting a good electrical circuit. Can't tell you how long is long enough, but if they're worn down to little stubs, almost to where the wire is attached, they're probably shot.
The bearings, or bushings, whichever the motor has, of course need to be in good shape. Bad bearings will create too much friction when the motor is running, which will over heat the brushes and commutator, causing heat and arcing, which wears the brushes faster, and makes a mess of the commutator.
Inside the motor housing needs to be clean of dirt and crud. This will cause friction, heat build up, ect. You get the picture.
Next to doing all this, is getting another motor.

__________________
past MB rides:
'68 220D
'68 220D(another one)
'67 230
'84 SD
Current rides:
'06 Lexus RX330
'93 Ford F-250
'96 Corvette
'99 Polaris 700 RMK sled
2011 Polaris Assault
'86 Yamaha TT350(good 'ol thumper)

Your primary winding is shot. Electric motors have a primary and secondary winding. the primary starts it spinning, the secondary keeps it spinning. If your blower will run after you spin it with your fingers, the primary is burned out and the secondary is good. You can rewind your coil at home, if you have the patience to count about 5000 turns. a rebuilt electric motor is one where someone burnished the commutator and replaced the brushes and springs. You can do that yourself and it will last a while. Use emery cloth to burnish the commuttor and clean it well with alcohol before reassembling. However, becaue your motor ha a burned out primary, 'rebuilding' it won't make it work unless you rewind it.

$75 for a used blower?!
You guys just gotta check out the "U=Pull-It" Yards. I have a price list from "Crazy Ray's--3 locations around Baltimore, MD).
Any Blower motor is the same price--$10, plus $2 core unless you have the old one with you to exchange.
Other prices--Brake rotor $10, +$1, Calipers $10 +2, Door panels $12, Seat with tracks$20, outside mirrors $12, engine no accessories--$125 +25 core.
Other considerations-- You select it, you pull it, once purchased, parts do not return for any reason!

That would be for an induction motor not a DC motor.

__________________
Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

hey ms fowler -

want to make $20?





--Nick