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  #1  
Old 06-17-2003, 10:22 AM
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Shock parts sequence

Anyone put Bilsteins on a 300SD lately?

The person who developed the single page, double-sided instructions that come with the shocks should be soundly beaten. I saw no schematic that matched the shocks that came in the box. Am I wrong on this?

Do I need to retain the protective plastic shock skirt, or do I dispose of it. It seems to be causing everything to bind up. Also, should I remove parts from the old shocks, like the triple donut sleeve on the rod, and transfer them to the new ones.

I can't get enough rod through the hole into the engine compartment!!! HELLLLLLP!!!!

83 300SD 174K
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  #2  
Old 06-17-2003, 10:49 AM
Zoonhollis's Avatar
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I replaced my shocks recently with Bilsteins on my 300D. In my case, all the necessary hardware came with the shocks. The accompanying literature was confusing, but I managed to identify both front and rear models from the sheet. It is important that the shocks are assembled according to the diagrams.

If you don't seem to have enough threaded shaft sticking out through the body, then you may need to put a second jack underneath the ball joint assembly and raise it until you can safely thread the nut. I had to do this, and I soon realized that the use of a second jack is almost imperative.
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1995 E300 Diesel (Die Blau Frau)
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  #3  
Old 06-17-2003, 11:51 AM
R Leo's Avatar
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Keep those shock boots!!!

I don't know about Bilsteins, but not all replacement shocks have a metal or rubber boot/skirt. SO, you run the possibility needing those boots if you replace the shocks at some point in the future and the replacement set come w/o boots.

I believe SWMBOs 300D had OEM Bilsteins (w/ removable rubber boot) and at 265,000 miles they needed replacement...not wanting to break the bank, I put on a set of KYBs (which just so happen to have the metal skirt). Consequently, I didn't need the boots anymore. But, I seemed to remember Larry Bible writing somewhere on the forum that he had tossed the boots in an earlier shock change and was now lamenting the loss of those boots becasue the new shocks he was installing needed them.

Hope this helps.

R Leo

IMHO, "shock standardization" is an oxymoron!
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  #4  
Old 06-17-2003, 12:15 PM
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I tried the second jack thing and wound up lifting the car off of the jack stands. Still not enough stud through the hole.

The factory Bilsteines were history, leaking and sloppy. They had a reddish brown triple donut-looking hard rubber sleeve on the rod. I wonder if that needs to be placed on the new shock.
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  #5  
Old 06-17-2003, 12:57 PM
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I just did this recently on my D. If I remember right, there was a bumper/spacer on the shaft under the boot that needed to be removed. Otherwise, it was too short. stupid little thing cost me a bit of time to figure out.
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1982 300 D turbo, 183,000 mi
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  #6  
Old 06-17-2003, 01:05 PM
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Okay, now we're talking. So you put the boot right on the shock strut, so it kind of slops around a bit?

I think that's where I'm going wrong. The Chilton Manual schematic shows the bumper inside the boot. I think this is what is jamming things up.
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  #7  
Old 06-17-2003, 02:01 PM
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Not sure I'd recommend leaving that bushing out...

Unless the SD is appreciably different from a W123, the shock and its hardware should fit okay, boot and all. If you placed a second jack underneath the new shock and raised the whole ball joint assembly---and the car was lifted off of the first jack---then there should be PLENTY of weight applied for that shock stem to poke through adequately. Additionally, if you forego using that inner bushing inside the boot, then what will you have in there for the underside of the fender well to contact? If you have only a boot and a metal washer inside the boot directly on the underside of the car body, then it seems you are in danger of defeating the purpose of the shock...
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  #8  
Old 06-17-2003, 02:13 PM
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If memory serves me, there was a giant bumper in there that I had to replace with a smaller one.
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1982 300 D turbo, 183,000 mi
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  #9  
Old 06-17-2003, 06:38 PM
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Since it seems that you're working without a manual, be advised that the rear shock limits the travel of the trailing arm. If you remove the shock without supporting the trailing arm, the trailing arm might swing down enough to damage the brake line.

Sixto
95 S420
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD
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