The shift knob is the one used on the W140 chassis S600.

The steering wheels have always been available at the dealer for about $1,200.

I got mine from eris car designs, and they used an OE wheel, which they cut out and have wood inserted.

Yeah I was thinking of getting that one (black w/ mb logo). I'm kinda sold on the W220 style knob though.

Bob,
Yeah all wood is sweet but leather is nicer to grip onto.

The Warden,

my rubber surround is a little weird too. I was trying to think of what I could do to it.. but still haven't come up w/ anything yet.

I'm thinking of designing something in CAD and have my manufacturing engineering friend make it out of aluminum or something.

Rick and Warden
 

The kind of damage (doberman?) that Rick shows in his picture, with bits of leather/Tex missing is not a job for ColorPlus. I once did something similar to the center piece in the seat back in my 300SD which I cut the leather with the hardware on my suspenders.

I took the seat back to a place that did restoration on boats and they sourced a piece of MB leather with the perforations, just like the original, and stitched in a new insert. I seem to recall it was something like $200, but that was some 8 years ago.

ColorPlus does suggest the 'glue in a supporting piece of material then use the Flexfill filler' which may work if your are not too troubled by minor texture differences. In my pictorial I used Flexfill to fill incipient cracks, but your damage looks too severe for that approach.

Generally, the bolster at the driver's entry point seems to suffer most damage, getting whacked every time you get in. On the wife's 380SLC I repaired the damage (the seam was also parting from rotted stitches) and then switched the driver's and passenger's seats, reasoning that the latter was much 'newer'. Illustrated here. A like job on the W126 will be complicated by the need to disconnect seat motors (and heater connections on cars thus equipped), but the key jobs - switching the seat belt anchors and the arm rest - would, I'm guessing, be similar.

Sorry to have wasted your time Thomas. I was really only joking about fixing up that seat. Not only is the cover shredded, but the springs are sprung and the pad is nothing but horsehair dust. I've already swapped the front seats (notice the huge hole in the bolster is on the inboard side), but both seats are going in the trash as soon as I can find suitable replacements.

The Warden - email or IM me. I have some ideas for you.

Found another one for the 300CD!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2422531288&category=33703&rd=1

I think it's pretty sweet! Almost looks like OEM but real leather!

speedy300dturbo, check these out

SK-33210 is the perf. products part number for the 124 shift knob adaptor. But if you have the earlier W124, you need this

SK-33124

good luck!

Do you mean you want to buy one or make one? Depending on how shift knobs attach (something I need to find out on my Benz), making one out of wood can be pretty easy. I made 2 wooden shift knobs (and a stone one) for my indecisive brother. If you'd like some tips I can post them.

If you haven't solved the problem yet, Loctite (blue, use the red and it'll survive a nuclear blast) will work. I made a shift knob for my Honda and after tapping it, had the same problem, Loctite worked.

I believe Phil was mistaken about that. Holson and The Warden, how about this?

sweet, another step closer to perfection ;)

I'm getting that part when I am back in Boston