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#1
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Turbo
How do you know if your turbos working?
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#2
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You should be able to kinda/sorta feel a "push" around 2500 rpm. Otherwise, tee a pressure gauge into the boost signal going to the alda and run the line into the passenger compartment. Use a gauge from 0-30 psi. You should get up to around 9-10 psi boost if it is working properly. You can safely go up to around 13 psi. It DOES make a difference when it is working properly.
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Jim |
#3
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Take off the cold air side and if you can fit your fingers in far enough to turn it..... If it moves by hand it should be working
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'85 300SD (formerly california emissions) '08 Chevy Tahoe '93 Ducati 900 SS '79 Kawasaki KZ 650 '86 Kawasaki KX 250 '88 Kawasaki KDX200 '71 Hodaka Ace 100 '72 Triumph T100R |
#4
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"Take off the cold air side and if you can fit your fingers in"
DO NOT do this when the car is running!!! |
#5
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It is better to either test for a turbo "pull" feel or using a pressure gauge because as opposed to just feeling if the turbo can spin. If the turbo does not spin freely, your car probably wouldn't be moving at all (LOTS OF AIR RESISTANCE both sides of the engine) and you would deffinately notice it!!!
There are many control systems (wastegate etc.) that will cause a turbo to malfunction even if it is mechanically in pristine condition. But, just for clarity, one way to check if a turbo is 100% properly working and producing the desired end result is to: Check bearing end play on both sides of the turbo. Check turbo bearing oil feed line for proper flow Check and adjust the wastegate and its sender lines etc. Check/Adjust the ALDA and associated pressure/vacuum lines for proper fuel flow augmentation (if the fuel flow does not increase with boost, a turbo will actually use power, not make power). Check the output pressure the turbo and make sure it is reaching the desired amt. Sincerely, ATLD If you do need/want a new turbo, I believe that "Mellett" (spelling?) sells new/rebuilt turbo cores are very reasonable prices from England. Contact me if you need more info... |
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