Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 06-30-2003, 12:06 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 5
Is 120 degrees too hot - not according to manual - help

Okay, I've read a thousand responses about the diesel engines running hot, but I'm still confused. I have an '86 300SDL that reaches close to the 120c (red mark) in hot weather with the a/c on, in stop & go traffic. It will lower when I start moving again. The Mercedes dealer says it should not reach that high and I need a new radiator. Another expert says i don't need a new radiator. The aux. fan is working.

HOWEVER, the owners manual says "During severe operating conditions and stop-and-go city traffic, the coolant temp may rise close to the red marking".

What is the real truth?


Last edited by mjt2000; 06-30-2003 at 12:26 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 06-30-2003, 12:18 PM
The Least of These
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Exton, PA
Posts: 559
mjt2000,

Welcome to the forum!!

We didn't get all the post...

This is too high for my skin. First make sure your aux fans are working. If they are no comming on at 100C - this is the problem. Anyway, it would be on my 124. I do not know if the SDLs are set to funtion the same way... Anyone???

If they are fine and you know that your fan and fan clutch are okay, I would start with replacing the expansion tank cap(least expensive), then the t-stat and if the problem presists - the radiator (most expensive). If you do the raditor, I would do all hoses and the t-stat at the some time if it has been a while.
__________________
1996 (W210) E300D 86K - Traded in for a Lexus
1992 (W124) 300D 2.5 Turbo 202K - Sold
1983 (W123) 300D, 146K - Sold
1970 280S, 263K - Sold - Beginning of addiction
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 06-30-2003, 12:44 PM
TX76513's Avatar
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Brandon, Mississippi
Posts: 5,203
To Hot

MJT - That is definately to hot. My 86 SDL never get's anywhere near the red mark. I think it may get a little warmer in TX than your home state. "Ever tried to go through Austin at about 5 PM?

Has your cooling system had a good flush? Thermostat been replaced lately? Have your degreased and presure washed the radiator fins?
__________________
BENZ THERE DONE THAThttp://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...c/progress.gif
15 VW Passat TDI
00 E420
98 E300 DT
97 E420 Donor Car - NEED PARTS? PM ME!
97 S500
97 E300D
86 Holden Jackaroo Turbo D
86 300SDL
(o\|/o)
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 06-30-2003, 01:04 PM
sixto's Avatar
smoke gets in your eyes
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 20,800
When you get beyond 110C, do you hear the clutch fan and electric fan engage? The electric fan should be in high gear but it might be hard to distinguish from the low speed when the AC compressor is engaged.

If the clutch fan isn't engaging, do an archive search on variations and combinations of 'Toyota silicone fan clutch fluid'.

Sixto
95 S420
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 06-30-2003, 05:00 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 5
Re: To Hot

The thermostat has been replaced. Why does the manual state the the temp could hit the red mark when driving in stop-n-go situations?
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 06-30-2003, 05:02 PM
sixto's Avatar
smoke gets in your eyes
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 20,800
MB wants to sell $2000 bare cylinder heads

Make sure your fans are working as they should before anything else.

Sixto
95 S420
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 07-02-2003, 06:04 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Fairfax Station, VA
Posts: 97
This happened to me in my 300TD, turned out to be the water pump.
__________________
1984 300TD Turbo 156Kmi
"He who seeks knowledge begins with humbleness" - Buju Banton
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 07-02-2003, 06:51 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
You won't get engine damage til you get up to the red zone, and I can see getting pretty hot stalled in, say Houston, with a slight following breeze at 4 pm in traffic.

However, you are running too hot. Do the quicky test for visco clutch operation (shut off when it is that hot while watching fan, it must stop within one revolution), and replace the thermostat (big PITA, it's on the side, in the lower radiator hose connection, you have to do it by feel). If the temp stays up, it's not the thermostat

If the visco fan and thermostat are OK, and the radiator cap holds pressure (check it, it's cheap) replace the radiator, it's MUCH cheaper than a new head. Flushing won't work if someone has been using green coolant in the past, the rad is full of insoluble crud, and you CANNOT remove the tanks and reinstall them leak free, no matte what anyone says. You are probably stuck with a plastic and aluminum replacement -- not enough demand for brass and copper ones (sadly, they last forever).

I'm fairly certain the techs have checked the temp across the rad -- easy to do these days with infared thermometers, and found cold spots indicating plugging. Rad is about $300 plus installation

My 300D had a new rad when I got it, but it has green coolant in it, to be changed this summer.

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 07-02-2003, 07:54 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 5
Where can you get a radiator for $300. The dealer said it would be about $1500!!!!
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 07-02-2003, 09:07 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: PA
Posts: 5,440
MJT2000,

$1500 for a radiator, he's not a dealer he's a stealer. Even $300 is on the high side. If you had a copper/brass radiator, you could get a new core installed for $200 or less and it would be good as new.

After you are on this site for a while, You will learn to stay away from stealers for most repairs. Replacing a radiator is a simple DIY project.

Before you buy a new radiator, take you radiator out and to a radiator shop. Have it flow tested and cleaned if necessary.

If you replace the radiator, I suggest you get an all metal brass/copper radiator instead of the aluminum plastic one like you now have. Do a search for where they are available.

P E H
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 07-02-2003, 09:26 PM
PaulH's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Annapolis,Md
Posts: 442
I had high temps with my '87 300SDL last summer. I had a bad fan clutch. Check it the way psfred suggested. Also, the aux fan comes on at 105. If you're cool on the open road, it probably isn't the water pump. Anyway , several people have given you some good information. Good luck.
__________________
Paul 1987 300 SDL; 2000 ML; '69 MGB; '68 VW Fastback
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 07-02-2003, 11:08 PM
rebootit
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
I got a BRAND NEW rad here in FL that has brass conections to the tranny cooler VS the aluminum ones on the factory unit that managed to last 20 years and I only replaced because of a small crack in the plastic top part. Cost was well under $200.00 would have to check the invoice but this was just last fall I did the replacement so I'm sure of the price. VERY easy to replace. Don't see how a 86 model could be much more than what I paid.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 07-03-2003, 12:51 AM
The Bob
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
I also removed the bimetalic bar that allows the clutch to engage on the visco fan. It took about ten minutes to do and now my fan is on all the time. I may replace the switch for the winter but I have not lost any gas milage to speak of so whay the heck I might leave it off.

Overall these cars are not that hard to work on and can be alot of fun.


good luck

bob
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 07-03-2003, 09:29 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: central Texas
Posts: 17,277
The Factory Cure ?

Has everyone updated to the 9 bladed fan ?
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 07-03-2003, 10:54 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 5
Thanks for all your help. As a female, I have not quite mastered DIY work other than basics. Keep that in mind when giving me suggestions.

Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:49 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page