Tell me what I am thinking of getting into - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

TTaM · #1 07-14-2003, 02:58 PM

While browsing ebay, I stumbled upon an old 190D that happens to be rather close to me. Here is the link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2423428130&category=6328&rd=1 If I was to purchase this car, what am I to expect? How were the 190D's of the '60's? This would definately be a project car, just something to tinker around with, and hopefully revive. How much work do you think it would be getting this thing back up and running? Any advice you can give would be greatly appreciated.

#2 07-14-2003, 03:08 PM

You can get parts via Mercedes Vintage. They are of course, expensive. If you do buy it, I would highly recommend plying through Ebay regularly searching for old 190D parts.

If it were me, I would pass it up on the rust. Cancer is EXTREMELY difficult to fix. If my 190D was of the same vintage, then I'd snag this one up for a parts source only.

rickg · #3 07-14-2003, 03:18 PM

I second the rust issue. I finally gave up on the '67 230 I had because of it. It got into structural members of the car, and would have cost a fortune to fix. This looks like a good parts car, and that's about it. The car would never be worth near what it would cost to fix.

slowmoe · #4 07-14-2003, 07:23 PM

If you like this vintage, why don't you try to find one that is not in such horrible condition? I will guarentee will have plenty to still tinker with.

Today I looked over with my mechanic the 96 E300 I will be purchasing. I have at least 2 weekends of work on my hands and it only has 66K and has been garaged since new!!

slowmoe · #5 07-14-2003, 07:55 PM

plenty to tinker with hear...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2423042061&category=6329

TTaM · #6 07-14-2003, 11:22 PM

Yea, I figured as much. I'm going to walk away from this one, the guy wants $200. As for the other 190D linked, that's nice, but 10 times the cost. I thought 190Ds weren't desireable due to the complete lack of horsepower. Oh well...

300SDog · #7 07-15-2003, 12:01 AM

Volk, this could be deal of lifetime if you can scarf the car for about $200..... while auction losers get scared away, not knowing what they are missing.

Here's what to look for for when you show up for "test drive," wearing old clothes and bringing your tools in pickup truck.... and maybe a few crisp hundred dollar bills, in case owner wants to cancel the auction for $200 cash-in-hand.

First, you might want to ask the owner to just give you the keys and come back in an hour, so he doesnt distract you with alot of lies and BS - then....

1) Raise each front wheel on scissors jack, checking kingpin suspension for play..... you know, pulling on the wheels up, down and sideways (kingpin set approx. $130 + labor = $400+).... chronic problem on 110 chassis that were poorly maintained without greasing dozens of suspension fittings that few mechanics are competent to locate.

2) The only non-repairable rust, prone to the 110 chassis, can exist behind headlight pods, where you've got to buy sheetmetal bolt-on fenders (used to be $250 each).... floorboards can be repaired by 'poured-resin' method combined with sheet metal rivet system. Fidly bits like rocker panels, door bottoms, fender wells, etc. can be fixed with bondo. However the photos tell me you will need new drivers side, bolt-on fender immediately on account of excessive wheel well rust to perfect the car. Dont worry about trunk lid rust, it looks like surface stuff.

3) Given that discs are in backseat, expect the calipers and entire brake system to be frozen..... and the hydraulic system to need flushing, over and over again. This can be horribly expensive ($900 - $1200), as mechanics love to make suckers out of people who whimper about their brakes..... or you might be able to find replacement calipers yourself at less than $300 each. Rear brakes on this car are drums, i believe, so it generally just takes elbow grease to loosen em up.

Next you "start" the car......

1) Pull the glowplug switch all the way out, with ignition swith "on" and smoke a cigarette or play song on radio, maybe in about 2-3 minutes the plugs will be hot enough and you will see glow in bee-hive indicator on the dash.

2) Start it up without touching accelerator pedal if possible, let it stumble along at idle if it wants to.... and run outside to examine smoke at tailpipe, sniffing for oil or unburnt diesel fuel, cupping your hand over tailpipe, etc.

3) You might find it nailing at cold idle.... dont worry probably just valve timing or dirty injector tips, but take note if nailing continues after engine warms up.

4) When car just begins to warm up, with temp needle beginning to rise - shut it off!!! Next comes the poor man's compression test....... Basically, restart the car without heating the glow plugs - just shut it off, then turn the key to start it again after a few minutes. With luck, the engine develops enough compression after cranking for awhile to start on its own.

5) After the engine has warmed up and quieted down, check transmission for needle-bearing noise and general linkage by first depressing the clutch with car in neutral.... some slight whining difference may be noticed, but its generally no problem..... then shift through the gears and test the clutch - this is IMPORTANT because clutch pressure plate is most hard to find item for the 110 chassis diesel....... otherwise about $350 - $400 in parts alone for pressure plate, resurfaced disc, throw-out bearing, etc.

Btw, the '65 190Dc was last year of 'taxi-cab' lights on fenders and first year of disc brakes...... Its clearly a cult-classic that is worth upwards of $3G on 'California market' in restored condition.

Arguably, the old Heckflosse diesel is finest machine MB ever built..... better in snow and more interior space than anything made in the last 40 years.

Enough headroom to wear Stetson cowboy hat..... and zero electronics without wacky vacuum system and millions of "sensors" and relays. Hell, its from an era when MB owned international taxi cab industy worldwide.... clearly the simplest and easiest Benz of all time to own and maintain.

Can honestly think of nothing on this car that cannot easily be repaired in your own backyard, turning your own wrench. Worst problem judging from photos is new left side front fender. But expect the seller to be lying through his teeth..... anybody who says "photos say it all" is either full of crap - or just ignorant of cars in general.

After thorough "test drive" get back to us.... Off the cuff, I'd say GO FOR IT.

if you put that machine on the road and guarantee it will drive to New England.... hell, I'll take it off your hands for double the money you put into it.