|
|
|
#16
|
|||
|
|||
The dash and heater box comes out. Many have this problem, you are not alone. As stated, CHANGE THE VACUUM ELEMENTS while the evap is out. Otherwise you'll pull the dash again when the recirc / defroster goes out.
HTH,
__________________
Brian Toscano |
#17
|
||||
|
||||
Since you need a new evap, here's some repetition for emphasis:
Quote:
|
#18
|
|||
|
|||
10-4 on the pods, I'm taking it to my guy tonight. H'e done an S500, 300SD and 300SEL 6.3 for me this year and he said I'm such a Benz nut he's giving me a fleet price!
I think I'll upgrade the dash lights too. |
#19
|
|||
|
|||
He's already done two W140 evaps for you THIS year??? The W124 will be child's play for sure.
__________________
Brian Toscano |
#20
|
||||
|
||||
BTW - if you are lucky enough to still have R-12, DO NOT under ANY circumstances convert to R-134a. Please.
And since you're getting a new evap, if the car IS already 134a, I'd seriously consider reverting to mineral oil and R-12, half the battle is cleaning the lousy PAG oil out of the old evaporator. (The other half is getting it out of the condenser & compressor... lines are easy, drier just gets replaced.) Last tip: If the aux fan switch at the drier is green, PLEASE replace that too, with the new red switch. It's about $25 and will make the fan run more often, improving low-speed cooling. And I'm sure you need all the help you can get in Florida! |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|