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  #1  
Old 07-26-2003, 05:38 PM
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Dreaded evaporator 87 300D

Just bought an 87, charged A.C., it worked great for 2 days. The shop that did the work said it was evap. but I should see how long it takes to leak down. 1500 to 2K repair they say!

Didn't take too long...

Has anyone tried stop leak to any degree of success? Does it hurt anything to try?

Other than that, runs great, 26 mpg on the road at 80.

For you 87 300D owners, does it normally have a bit of an exhaust note compared to the old 123's and 126's or should I look at muffler?

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  #2  
Old 07-26-2003, 07:49 PM
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Try www.ackits.com. for parts, I think the evap core is $160+.... I don't know what labor and everything else will cost, but the place you went sounds really high to me.
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1985 300D Turbo ~225k
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  #3  
Old 07-27-2003, 01:54 PM
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Evaporator on the W124 chassis means almost comlete removal of the dash, huge PITA. $1500 is about right, takes about 8 hours if you know what you are doing, probably a weekend if you don't.

Check the expansion valve (beside the brake booster) first, unless they ran dye in it and know it is the evap.

My 300D has a growl, but is MUCH better with a new engine mount (I have to jack it up and get the other one in -- passenger side is a huge PITA even on a lift, no way to get to the top bolt except from under and behind). New mounts will quiet it down, it should be quieter than a 617. Possible the exhaust is bad, but in that case the noise will be from behind, not inside.

Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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Old 07-27-2003, 01:59 PM
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PLEASE correct me if i'm wrong, but on an '87, doesn't the evaporator come out by removing the blower motor and windshield wiper assembly from the firewall area from the outside of the car?
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  #5  
Old 07-27-2003, 02:32 PM
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Jhal:

I sure hope it does, but I do recall the dealer nailed me for an evap. failure, big money when I traded an 86 300E back in many years ago.

Any thoughts on stop leak?

The air works now, but freezes up after an hour or so and the fan slows to nothing. The condensate seems to have a bit of an oil sheen when it thaws and drains.

PSFred: The noise is from behind, not loud, but worse than I expected, love the car though, it seems like a rocket compared to the old 123's and 126's

Thank You
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  #6  
Old 07-27-2003, 02:55 PM
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Freezing up when it has a good charge may be due to an inoperative evaporator temp switch. Definately have a tracer dye put in it and then check it for leaks that way. Or you could use an electronic "sniffer" at the a/c drains since refrigerant is heavier than air and will collect there when the system is off. Maybe Larry or one of the other a/c pros can chime in on this one and offer their thoughts.
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Old 07-27-2003, 05:19 PM
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We can only wish that the evaporator could be reached by ordinary mortals on the W124 chassis -- looks like it is about the first thing to go in, comes out only from the inside.

Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #8  
Old 07-27-2003, 06:44 PM
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It stings to buy a car for 4K and then spend 2K repairing it, but that's what the older mercedes do to ya.

Great car, whatever the cost.

Do the tricks from the old 617's work, like disabling the EGR with a BB, etc? Any other little tricks inherent to this car?

Thanks
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  #9  
Old 07-27-2003, 08:35 PM
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jhal, you're thinking of blower motor replacement, which is considerably less labor than replacing the evap!
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  #10  
Old 07-27-2003, 09:54 PM
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What do you need tricks for on a car that will outrun (and outdrag!) my 72 280 SE 4.5?

Make sure all the vac lines are in good shape, and that the turbo boost control system (and ALDA) are working fine.

Torque steer is bad links in the rear end, thumps on shifting (provided the vac is good to the tranny) is bad diff mounts (a PITA to replace), else typical W124 chassis stuff.

$6000 for this car (including the work) is average for 150,000+ milage.

Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #11  
Old 07-27-2003, 10:31 PM
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Peter:

The car runs great, but, I'm guilty of the desire to run a little better or faster, can't help it.

This one was locally owned and the shop has serviced it since new.

I've also got a 6.3 in the works, 1971. Next stop, the paint shop. I'm a glutton for more projects. When I finish the 1968 Hatteras Sportfish, I'll finish the 6.3, then the 300D if they don't finish me first.
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  #12  
Old 07-27-2003, 10:59 PM
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Not much you can do, Benz got this one right. The only thing you want to watch out for is coked oil in the intake -- you need to take the crossover pipe off when it starts to leak oil and clean the crap out.

Other than that, enjoy!

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #13  
Old 07-28-2003, 05:08 PM
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The evap requires dash removal. However there are some specialty AC sealants (Cryoseal?) that are designed specifically for evaporator leaks. I'd attempt that first. Or, just do it yourself. It will take you a weekend to pull the dash & replace the evaporator, but the parts are cheap, and your labor is sort of "free". Then take it to the AC shop for leak test & recharge. I would definitely make sure the expansion valve is not the problem first though!

BTW, if you pull the dash for the evap, REPLACE ALL THE ACC VACUUM PODS!!!! There, was that clear enough? I will wager $100 that at least one is failed right now and you don't know it, and 4 of the 6 require dash removal to replace. They're about $35 each. Change 'em all. Trust me. Done this on three 124's so far (both mine, plus my sister's).


HTH,
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  #14  
Old 07-29-2003, 07:57 PM
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Dropped her off at the A.C. shop today, going to try the sealant routine. They said they have used the sealant on 6 Benz's and it worked on them all.

If the leak is small enough, they say it will work. I'll keep everyone advised.

Roger
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  #15  
Old 07-30-2003, 12:35 PM
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Final answer, the leak is too bad to seal.

Next big leak will be in my wallet.

Thanks to all for the thoughtful replies.

Roger

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