In my quest to have zero oil leaks, I attacked the Injection pump on my 83 300D today. It is leaking around the bottom IP plate and also I believe the IP to engine gasket is damaged.

Here's my problem. The hanes manual says rotate the crank to 24btdc before you remove the IP, which I did. Then it says to line up the wide spline on the IP with the mark on the housing of the IP before reinstallation, which I also did.

The problem is that my timing is way too retarded now. It looks like start of injection is about at 0 degrees instead of the 24BTDC that it's supposed to be. I can't imagine bending the ip spider that much to make it work even if it would rotate enough.

So if anyone has completely removed an IP and reinstalled it, I'd appreciated any comments on the procedure you used.

Thanks
Joe

Here's something I found from Larry Bible...

You will need a drip spout which is inexpensive and available from the parts shop here.

The best way to convey this procedure is for you to go to your nearest foreign car parts store and buy a Haynes manual. The procedure is quite clear, and the manual is inexpensive.

If for whatever reason you can't get a Haynes manual, let us know and we will go through the explanation here.

The basic steps are:

Put engine at top dead center on the compression stroke. You can do this by simply turning to TDC, if the cam timing mark does not line up, turn it one more turn to TDC and ensure that the cam timing mark lines up.

Align the notch in the injection pump splines with the mark next to the gear on the pump.

Install the pump in place with the bolts slightly snug such that the pump is in place but can be turned with a little pressure.

Remove the check valve from number one fitting and replace fitting.

Connect spout. And pump vigorously with hand pump to build pressure.

Turn engine slowly to 24 degrees BTDC. Turn the pump until you are getting one drop per second from the spout. You may have to pump the hand pump some more.

Tighten the pump bolts and recheck for one drip per second, readjust if necessary.

Don't forget to replace the check valve under the number one fitting.



Where you really need the manual is for the picture of the injection pump timing marks.

Good luck,



__________________
Larry Bible


Larry says to set the crank to tdc, and then set the ip timing marks. I set my crank to 24 BTDC before removeal and lined up the ip marks. I'm now off my 24 degrees, but I think if I follow Larry method, I'll be even later. What gives???

I did a IP R&R on a 79 TD. I followed the procedure outlined in the Haynes manual with good results. It does say to set the engine at 24 deg before installing the pump.

If after removing the IP, you had to rotate the pump like 1/2 turn to get the marks to align, the engine may not be on compression stroke (#1 cyl)
As Larry Bible outlined, make sure #1 piston is on the compression stroke. If you have the valve cover off, either look for the mark on the cam to see if it's aligned, or look at the cam lobes for #1 cyl. valves to see that they are "up" away from the valves. If you don't have the valve cover off, I think you can see the #1 cyl cam lobes by looking in the oil filler hole. If the cams aren't up, the crankshaft is one turn off (cam 1/2 turn off)

yes, the haynes procedure is correct. I pulled it out again and was off by 3 or 4 teeth. The problem was getting the ip in is a handful on a 300d given that I didn't remove the oil filter housing. I must have gone in at an angle and somehow moved it.

It's back together and timing is right on, now to check for leaks....


thanks
Joe