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  #1  
Old 08-14-2003, 04:20 PM
'82 300TD-T
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: SoCal
Posts: 276
Bit of a suspension problem...

The other day while going over some rough road, I felt something "shudder" and then heard a sound, and then the next thing I knew I heard an ongoing metal-on-metal clank.

Got the wagon up on the stands last night and discovered that the driver side front shock is loose. The lower retaining bolts are completely sheared off at the lower control arm, leaving two little stubs. One hole is packed with grease and grime, so who knows how long I've been driving around with one lower retaining bolt.

So, is this a big deal, being sheared off and all? I don't think it's necessary to buy a new lower control arm, is it? Should I just drill out the remaining bolt stubs? Can I leave the whole assembly in position, or should I disassemble for the best result?

Thanks in advance,

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  #2  
Old 08-14-2003, 06:03 PM
Cazzzidy
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Posts: n/a
Here we go. ...

Are you sure the shock absorber itself is not the part with the sheared bolt?

On my 220D, the shock absorber has a pivot with a metal mounting plate. This mounting plate holds the pressed bolts that protrude through the control arm. I would guess that the bolts are on the plate, so you would need to purchase a new shock absorber.
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  #3  
Old 08-14-2003, 07:38 PM
'82 300TD-T
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: SoCal
Posts: 276
no, i'm quite sure what i'm looking at is a control arm with two bolts sheared off in it. a new shock is not required.

the whole shock assembly (shock, lower mounting plate, etc.) is intact, with no visible damage. right now, it is "free floating" above the lower control arm by a few inches (the car is still on jack stands).

i would attempt to drill out the remaining bolts stubs, but i'm waiting for further input...
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  #4  
Old 08-14-2003, 11:57 PM
'82 300TD-T
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: SoCal
Posts: 276
sorry i'm responding to my own thread, but here's an update:

drove around (in my other car) and got some repair quotes. some were outrageous, some were decent. found a place (a local, well-respected suspension shop) who'll attempt to drill out the bolts while all suspension remains in place. we'll see how that goes.

if that doesn't work, looks like i'm off to pick-a-part...

if anyone has any pointers or tidbits, please post!
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  #5  
Old 08-15-2003, 12:15 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Wakefield, RI
Posts: 2,145
Even if you can't drill out the bolts and retain the OEM thread size whats the problem with tapping to the next size up? Is there clearance? Seems like a lot of trouble for two small bolts. RT
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  #6  
Old 08-15-2003, 12:23 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
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Front shock on a W123 has a "cup" on the bottom, held on to the control arm with a pair of studs. The pin where an American shock would be bolted in is swaged in place, non-removable.

You can probably drill the studs out and replace with bolts, or just get a new pair of shocks and replace both -- if they are original, you will probably get a much better ride.

Peter
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  #7  
Old 08-15-2003, 01:11 AM
'82 300TD-T
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: SoCal
Posts: 276
i'm not sure if i'm being an alarmist, or if i'm just not making myself clear.

Quote:
Even if you can't drill out the bolts and retain the OEM thread size whats the problem with tapping to the next size up? Is there clearance? Seems like a lot of trouble for two small bolts.
i have no problem with this. but, there is very little clearance on either side of the arm. drill out too much, and it seems like there's risk of a stress fracture. and with the steering knuckle, guide rod, coil and all the rest in the way, it's kinda hard to maneuver a drill down there...

Quote:
Front shock on a W123 has a "cup" on the bottom, held on to the control arm with a pair of studs.
YES! if you look at the upper right corner of this picture, you'll see the "cup" and the two supplied bolts. my cup is fine and intact. but like i said, the bolts have been sheared off, and the butts remain in the control arm.

Quote:
You can probably drill the studs out and replace with bolts.
well, that's what i was thinking (i assume you mean drill straight through the control arm and out the other side.) it wouldn't increase the diameter of the hole, and would allow for a cheap fix at home. and yes, now would be a good time to replace shocks and so on, but money's tight and i'm looking to do this as cheap and safe as possible.
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  #8  
Old 08-15-2003, 03:06 AM
Cazzzidy
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Posts: n/a
I recommend drilling out the sheared bolts and threads all the way through the arm. Go to a hardware store and get some SAE 7 bolts (bolt/nut/lockwasher) and secure them with clamping force.

Judging by the small size of the bolts on my diesel's shocks, and the ease in which they sheare during tightening , I dont think that these bolts recieve much stress. The bulk of vertical force is applied directly to the control arm by the shock mount... and there is no lateral force applied to the bolts. I dont think that rethreading these points is a good idea ... just use some good ol' fashion nuts an bolts.

My $.02
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  #9  
Old 08-15-2003, 10:43 AM
'82 300TD-T
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: SoCal
Posts: 276
Quote:
Originally posted by Cazzzidy
I recommend drilling out the sheared bolts and threads all the way through the arm.
thanks for confirming my thoughts exactly. i didn't want to increase the diameter of the hole, but i see no problem in drilling straight through.

Quote:
I dont think that these bolts recieve much stress. The bulk of vertical force is applied directly to the control arm by the shock mount... and there is no lateral force applied to the bolts.
seems likely to me -- the pivot looks like it takes the bulk of the force...

thanks everyone for the input!

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