|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Bit of a suspension problem...
The other day while going over some rough road, I felt something "shudder" and then heard a sound, and then the next thing I knew I heard an ongoing metal-on-metal clank.
Got the wagon up on the stands last night and discovered that the driver side front shock is loose. The lower retaining bolts are completely sheared off at the lower control arm, leaving two little stubs. One hole is packed with grease and grime, so who knows how long I've been driving around with one lower retaining bolt. So, is this a big deal, being sheared off and all? I don't think it's necessary to buy a new lower control arm, is it? Should I just drill out the remaining bolt stubs? Can I leave the whole assembly in position, or should I disassemble for the best result? Thanks in advance, |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Here we go. ...
Are you sure the shock absorber itself is not the part with the sheared bolt?
On my 220D, the shock absorber has a pivot with a metal mounting plate. This mounting plate holds the pressed bolts that protrude through the control arm. I would guess that the bolts are on the plate, so you would need to purchase a new shock absorber. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
no, i'm quite sure what i'm looking at is a control arm with two bolts sheared off in it. a new shock is not required.
the whole shock assembly (shock, lower mounting plate, etc.) is intact, with no visible damage. right now, it is "free floating" above the lower control arm by a few inches (the car is still on jack stands). i would attempt to drill out the remaining bolts stubs, but i'm waiting for further input... |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
sorry i'm responding to my own thread, but here's an update:
drove around (in my other car) and got some repair quotes. some were outrageous, some were decent. found a place (a local, well-respected suspension shop) who'll attempt to drill out the bolts while all suspension remains in place. we'll see how that goes. if that doesn't work, looks like i'm off to pick-a-part... if anyone has any pointers or tidbits, please post! |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Even if you can't drill out the bolts and retain the OEM thread size whats the problem with tapping to the next size up? Is there clearance? Seems like a lot of trouble for two small bolts. RT
__________________
When all else fails, vote from the rooftops! 84' Mercedes Benz 300D Anthracite/black, 171K 03' Volkswagen Jetta TDI blue/black, 93K 93' Chevrolet C2500HD ExCab 6.5TD, Two-tone blue, 252K |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Front shock on a W123 has a "cup" on the bottom, held on to the control arm with a pair of studs. The pin where an American shock would be bolted in is swaged in place, non-removable.
You can probably drill the studs out and replace with bolts, or just get a new pair of shocks and replace both -- if they are original, you will probably get a much better ride. Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
i'm not sure if i'm being an alarmist, or if i'm just not making myself clear.
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
I recommend drilling out the sheared bolts and threads all the way through the arm. Go to a hardware store and get some SAE 7 bolts (bolt/nut/lockwasher) and secure them with clamping force.
Judging by the small size of the bolts on my diesel's shocks, and the ease in which they sheare during tightening , I dont think that these bolts recieve much stress. The bulk of vertical force is applied directly to the control arm by the shock mount... and there is no lateral force applied to the bolts. I dont think that rethreading these points is a good idea ... just use some good ol' fashion nuts an bolts. My $.02 |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Quote:
thanks everyone for the input! |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|