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#1
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Need advice on junkyard safety, please!
In a thread I started a few days ago, I asked for advice regarding my lower left control arm. In the end, I decided to drill out the sheared-off bolt stumps left in the control arm. Yeah, right.
Turns out those little bolts are practically case hardened. My super-ultra-cobalt drill bit just danced on top of the bolts. Shined 'em up real nice. They're not coming out without a diamond bit or explosives... Anyway, a local shop suggested welding a bar to the top of the bolt, then just screw them out. At that point I started looking for a new control arm. Long story short, I found an '83 300D at my local junkyard. It's only been there for about 10 days, so it shouldn't be too picked over. If the control arm is still there, they'll let me have it for 15 bucks! Now, given the junkyard scenario, how should I go about safely removing the spring? Can I jack up the arm and secure the spring with a several loops of heavy-duty chain? Will I lose my head in the process? Please advise -- I plan on going tomorrow morning... |
#2
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This would do it..
Your drill bit was plenty hard.. you just needed a way to push it...
These are available on Ebay and really come in handy where you can not get something under a drill press or are far away from electricity... uses a brace and your arms for 'power'...too late for this project.. I just wanted to give people an idea for other hard situations.... |
#3
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Ugh. DO NOT use a chain, you need a proper spring compressor and a jack, and most good yards won't let you take a jack in, for obvious reason.
I'd explain the situation to the yard operator. Most of the good u-pull-its have access to a shop for just such situations (needing to remove a spring) and will do the work for you if you pay them. I would, the thought of taking a spring out of a Benz up on wheel rims in the gravel gives me the creeps! Remember, a lower control arm, used, is between $300 and $500, depending on model.... By the way, welding a "handle" on the ends of the bolts isn't nuts, either -- if there is enough sticking up to do this, the heat will almost certainly "start" them and they will come out nicely with vice grips. If you weld them to the control arm though, it's toast. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#4
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Ah, glad to see the heavyweights have started to chime in!
Greg, that is a pretty dandy little device. You're right though, too late. On the bright side, I did get a nice upper body workout that day! Peter, I agree with you on the chain. It scares the he!! outta me. And regarding the bolt "stumps," there wasn't enough stump to begin with (below the surface), and there definitely isn't enough now. I will take your advice and talk to the yard manager. If I'm real lucky, the suspension has already been torn apart and that little arm is just waiting for me... Regarding the price, I've shopped everywhere and this is what I've found: - Fast Lane, $167 - Performance, $176 - M-B Dealership, $Beaucoup - Local M-B dismantlers, $100~125 - Ecology Auto Parts, $13 + $2 core + $1 admission! Needless to say, I'll climb around that junkyard all day to find the part. Oh by the way, I celebrated my one year of MB wagon ownership yesterday! All in all, I've spent very little maintaining this car. As a matter of fact, I think I was getting a bit bored with it, but now I've got this fun project! |
#5
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I dont think you need a jack for this project as long as you have a spring compressor. Get a spring compressor at Kragen for a day, and simply secure the spring and tighten it down as best as you can. You wont be able to get it out without having to take off the control arm, but thats not a problem for you.
My bad $.02 |
#6
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Unfortunately, renting a spring compressor from AutoZone or Kragen won't cut it. Almost every spring compressor thread on this board says that it's near impossible to use anything other than a Klann or ST.
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#7
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I have experience in both Klann and Kragen style clamp compressors. While the clamp compressor is, as you mentioned, essentially impossible to use for removing a mercedes spring, I was suggesting that the spring does not need to be removed, just safely secured. It is possible, and I know from experience, to attach the clamp style compressor to the spring. It is often not possible to actually clamp it down enough to remove it from its seats ... but he doesnt need to, anyway.
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#8
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To take the control arm off it is, Cazzidy!
Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
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