"nut" behind the wheel real tough - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Stevo · #1 09-04-2003, 12:50 PM

Ok.. sorry to get your attention with the cheap play on words. I started out with the proper size allen and a socket wrench and ended up using the impact driver with the pressure cranked up and it still wouldn't budge.

Soaked it in Krowll last night and this morning and will try again.
Anyone ever have this problem and might it be possible to lower the column enough to make it easier to install/remove the dash?

BoostnBenz · #2 09-04-2003, 06:55 PM

That is alright, it doesn't appear to have worked anyway, I was only pulled in primarily because of pure boredom and the fact that nobody else posted yet. I am assuming you're speaking of the wheel which holds the steering wheel onto the column. No I've never had the problem simply because I found the dash can be pulled out without having to take the steering wheel off or lowering the column. While I'm not 100% positive on our MBs, but the vast majority of vehicles require a gear puller of some sort to remove the steering wheel even after the nut is removed. I'm sure it can be lowered or the wheel can be removed, but this more effort than it is worth IMHO.

sublettm · #3 09-04-2003, 11:06 PM

All that is needed to remove the steering wheel is the correct size allen wrench and a long breaker bar. It does help to have someone strong hold the wheel while you pull on the breaker bar in the opposite direction. I didn't like the "feel" of pulling against the steering lock. I don't remember what size allen wrench that particular bolt is. I have had to remove my steering wheel on both of my cars when I took the dash completely out to replace the diaphragms for the AC. If you simly need to pull the instrument cluster, it can be removed without taking off the steering wheel.

Mike

Stevo · #4 09-05-2003, 01:06 AM

I got the dash out w/o removing the steering wheel but I am a little nervous about getting the "new' dash back in. I couldn't remove the allen bolt with the impact driver or the breaker bar, supper tight, maybe red lok tight was used. I have not heard of other folks having trouble removing that bolt and was wondering if I had missed something. If I can drop the column some that would help.

thanks ...Steve

stashman · #5 09-05-2003, 10:22 AM

Stevo,
I just changed the steering wheel on my '80 300sd that I won on Ebay, to attach a steering wheel that I won on Ebay for $16. The nut was indeed "tough" to move. Couldn't do it myself until I borrowed a breaker bar, from there it was easy. There is no trick, it's just on there tight. No special tools (other than the 27 mm socket) needed, and once you loosen the bolt it comes right off. Hope this helps,
Scott

Stevo · #6 09-06-2003, 01:13 AM

The steering wheel on my '80' parts car and my "85" "good" car are held on with a 10mm allen and don't want to come off despite the most drastic measures I can inflect, 120 lbs psi on the impact wrench. Good thing I dont really need to remove them as just lowering the column should do the trick. thanks for all the feed back but I am gona have to give this round to the steering wheel.

BoostnBenz · #7 09-07-2003, 12:03 AM

Perhaps it is time for a more powerful impact wrench?

IMO ~500ft/lb is about right, I own a 425ft/lb but that isn't always enough. However much over 500ft/lbs I get quite concerned over breaking the part. Anything under 300ft/lb seems about a waste to me.

Stevo · #8 09-07-2003, 08:48 AM

Ya maybe I could borrow or rent a more powerfull impact wrench but all I need is a little more room to get the dash back in so I think droping the column will do it.

Thanks Steve

RunningTooHot · #9 09-07-2003, 10:42 AM

I wouldn’t necessarily suggest using an air impact gun…

Use a *long* breaker bar, and a *good*, snug fitting allen / hex socket (assuming yours is a 10mm allen bolt), and that should do the trick. They are VERY tight and use a weak threadlocker compound as they come from the factory. An old trick is to use some valve grinding compound on the working end of the allen / hex socket to help give it a bit more grip.

Sometimes the old adage applies: “when all else fails, use brute force & ignorance”

Stevo · #10 09-07-2003, 06:17 PM

Problem is if you use a breaker bar and BIG cheater you gota have a gorilla (or 2) hold the steering wheel while you apply the cheater, think i better do it another way and hope I never HAVE to take it off. :

thanks for the replys...Steve

wolfgang · #11 09-07-2003, 06:28 PM

Use the proper Allen key/socket, the breaker bar and a hammer. Do not lock the steering wheel, leave it free. Strike the bar sharply with a hammer and you'll get it started.

Stevo · #12 09-08-2003, 12:46 AM

OK I will give that a try tomorrow. I figured if an impect driver couldnt get it loose is wasn,t coming off...Maybe not. I,ll give her a dirty great smack and lecha know.

Steve

Stevo · #13 09-08-2003, 03:34 PM

Reporting back to HQ...Victory is mine, the 5 sided enemy,"Allen"has been vanquished on 2 fronts. First I borrowed a 425 ft/lbs super impact wrench, NO DICE,

then as a last resort tried wolfgangs "breaker bar and big hammer" approach.

I not only got the one on the donner car (allen #1) but Allen # 2 on my Euro car that will receive the "new" dash. This is a good thing to know and thanks All for the help. I am sure I would have bagged it had not so many folks jumped in with ideas. I am still gona see if lowering the column would have done it and I will post the results if anyone is interested. Thanks again Steve