Strong nailing - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Ken300D · #16 09-05-2003, 02:34 PM

I think I'd rather roll in a new chain than use an offset woodruff key in order to stretch out (bad choice of words?) the life of a timing chain. Those last few degrees are awful risky.

Ken300D

BoostnBenz · #17 09-05-2003, 02:41 PM

How about prolong the life?

I think the woodruff is a decent fix for the problem, but I figured I have to do about the same labor either way installing these. However I now don't have to time the IP so the labor is less, but the cost is a lot more with the new chain. To each their own.

#18 09-06-2003, 02:10 AM

After doing some intense searching on other MB sites, I found some archives with the past owner, Jacob Charts, discussing my 300TD when it was his. From the pieces I could put together are this:

Origional engine: 290k miles. Overheating problem, fixed with new radiator. Later it threw a rod (Which one I don't know).

New engine and trans (Hense the mechanical speedo and electronic trans.): From a 1984 300SD 120k miles that he had "laying around."

It still must have the origional head, cam, etc...
If the SD block is so new what might cause this premature nailing? 120K miles should be almost "broken in". Might it be the 290K mile head?

Other parts like the IP, radiator, valves, turbo, etc. might be SD or TD.
Should I call the PO and ask which cylinder threw the rod?
If anyone has delt with him before e-mail me.

#19 09-06-2003, 09:49 AM

The noise you are hearing (that goes away when you crack the #1 injection line) is occuring in the #1 cylinder. It COULD be the injector, or the prechamber or the delivery valve. Since you've replaced the injectors, they are not LIKELY the cause, but swapping them can check that. That leaves the prechamber (tiny chance it could be deeper in the combustion chamber, but VERY unlikely). If the prechamber is damaged (usually cracked) or if there is a lump of loose carbon floating around in the prechamber, the cylinder will make a racket (sound just like a little Cummins idling at the gas pump). If it's a lump of carbon (or an hunk of glow plug) it will PROBABLY burn out - EVENTUALLY. The symptoms you report CAN also occur if the delivery valve is damaged (as CAN occasionally can happen when it's remove/replaced when setting pump timing using the "drip" procedure) and this can eventually damage the prechamber. That it occurs under load is important (most noises of this sort are reduced under load) and suggests it IS caused by a damaged prechamber. A damaged prechamber is VERY serious as if it fails (cracks and a piece falls into the combustion chamber) it can turn a rather nice engine into a doorstop in just a moment!

This is NOT a matter of pump or valve timing (as it only is occuring on one cylinder).

Marshall

#20 09-06-2003, 11:29 AM

After removing the injector, what should I be looking for? Might it be better to just remove the prechamber and examine it that way? What is the tool # for removing it? A classmate spent an hour trying to get one out of a 617.950 and never got it to budge.

Carbon is nonmagnetic isn't it? So a magnet would be useless. If it is a glowplug piece, are they magnetic?

I don't think it could be the delivery valve, I haven't doneanything to cause a change in it. This started long before I even thought of doing anything to/with the IP.

Gurkha · #21 09-06-2003, 11:31 AM

Hi Marshall,

Nice to see you here.

#22 09-06-2003, 07:30 PM

TThis is a clip fron the MBZ.org site archives

-------------------------------------------------

Jacob Charts wrote:
>
> Dear Mercedes Afficiando's,
>
> The Polish staff car (1982 wagon with 310,000) blew a
> rod. I thought the motor was stronger, but we haven't
> been maintaining the little lady like she is used to.
> In any regard, I have a motor and trannny from a 1984
> 300SD, with 115,000 origianl miles, I'm ready to drop
> into her. Any advice or documents on performing the
> surgery or a good book is greatly appreciated. If
> anybody wantst he old motor and tranny, with a a blown
> rod let me know. Free come pick it up in Tulsa.
>
> Jake

Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 10:56:25 -0400
From: Marshall Booth
Subject: Re: [DIESEL] Blew the Motor, I have spare replacement with transmission

Jake, I BELIEVE you will need to salvage at least the pump and maybe the
head of the engine in the TD as the SD engine isn't equipped to drive
the pump for the self leveling system. It's been too long since I looked
at the differences between 300D/300TD engine configurations but
provisions for the self leveling system are necessary and the pump MAY
not just bolt onto the SD engine (or it may - I forget)!

Marshall
- --
Marshall Booth
"der Dieseling Doktor" mbooth+@pitt.edu

------------------------------------------------------

Hope this might help clear anything up.

BoostnBenz · #23 09-06-2003, 11:55 PM

Performance products sells a prechamber nut wrench (58-011) and a prechamber puller (58-012), they rent the puller.

Carbon is nonmetallic, but if you break it free it should blow out through the valves. Also you can disolve it with something like Mopar's Combustion Chamber Cleaner (MCCC), but the oil should be changed after using that. A glow plug should be metallic.

#24 09-07-2003, 03:56 AM

I took out #1 injector and peered into the Prechamber. I saw the glowplug tip, it was round and smoothe on the tip. There was a roundish blob of something hard directly across from the GP. I couldent dislodgeit.

#25 09-07-2003, 03:57 AM

This is about the area the object occupied in red.

Is there a way to remove the PC at a resonable price? I'm not a shop so I have no way to recoop the top dollar price of such an item.

P.E.Haiges · #26 09-07-2003, 05:05 AM

82-300td.

That's in the area of the ball pin. The ball should be in the center of the PC. If not, the ball pin is broken.

Maybe you catch some kind of puller it the PC hole that the injector squirts thru. If you ruin the PC, you can put in a new one with a new ball pin and it won't cost that much more.

How about the rental tool talked about in a previous post?

P E H

#27 09-07-2003, 10:09 AM

There are a pair of tools that will allow you to remove the prechamber. http://www.technictool.com/prechamber-tools.htm They cost perhaps $100-150 if purchased new. You CAN make them. I've attempted to attach a file showing a homemade "ring remover" and a "prechamber puller" (along with a valve adjustment wrench).

Marshall

Zeitgeist · #28 09-07-2003, 10:54 AM

Marshall, is that part of a bicycle pedal sitting above the turnbuckle on that PC puller? Very ingenious. I'll save that image for later when I replace the cracked head on my OM 603. Thanks!

#29 09-07-2003, 02:33 PM

So, It's just a modified slide hammer? I assume the PC is held in the head with friction. Do you know the diameter and thread info of the PC's threads? Might you have a basic parts list?

This is great!

#30 09-07-2003, 02:33 PM

So, It's just a modified slide hammer? I assume the PC is held in the head with friction. Do you know the diameter and thread info of the PC's threads? Might you have a basic parts list?

This is great!