I searched the site, and read about the vacuum shut-off valve installation, and printed out several pages of discussion. I even had another spare fuel injector pump to practice on. I installed it OK, pre-set the vacuum to mimic the shutoff, but I still got a runaway engine!?! However, thanks to the many warnings posted, I had my 17mm wrench handy, and by the third injector loosened, the engine was faltering, and stopped by the fourth injector loosening. WOW, what an experience, both the noises of a fully revving engine, and the sight of diesel spewing everywhere for 8-10 seconds. Not for the fainthearted, believe me! Anyway, from what I read, there is a rack pin that has fallen. What do I do next? Is there a reset procedure? I'll be working on it tomorrow, and hope to get it up and running. Any help would be appreciated!

Did you try pressing the stop lever? You can always put a piece of sheet metal or wood over the intake and smother it. If it is a rack pin you might be better off taking it ot a diesel shop to be rebuilt or swap it with a known good one.

The injection pump that is, not the pin.

Skaa.

Or take off the vacuum shut off valve again and make sure the arm is attached.

Remove the rubber inlet hose from the air filter and you can shut off the engine by blocking the air inlet much quicker and cleaner than taking off the fuel pipes.

P E H

Thanks for all your support! What fooled me was the shut-off valve WAS attached properly. But, I did notice the internal mechanism was binding, and the STOP lever wasn't moving easily, when I applied the vacuum to the valve with my MityVac, even though it was working OK while I trial-fitted it, but I went ahead and buttoned it up and started the engine anyway. I'm going out to re-attach it and see why it had so much friction on it. I'm hoping there isn't some sort of inner spring or something on the internal IP mechanism that I 'sprung' while attaching the shut-off valve. It's the tight working space that makes it tough, too. And the MB manual isn't much help. either. My only fear is that I've messed up something that I can't undo myself, a fear all DIY'ers have, I'm sure. Skaa

Be careful. We don't want to see you in one of those SoCal helicopter high-speed videos.

"Oh my goodness, now he's doing over 90 miles an hour in a res-i-den-shul neighborhood......"

Ken300D

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1982 300D at 351K miles
1984 300SD at 217K miles
1987 300D at 370K miles

Stop lever should run down with light vac application.

Make sure you have the "hook" on the servo completely inserted into the hole on the lever without binding, this isn't so easy as it sounds all the time.

I'm very glad you had the wrench handy, saved the engine! Messy, but worth it.

If you had the servo "hook" sidways, it may have popped off when you started the car.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

psfred, P.E.Haiges, 82-300DT, Ken300D,
I went out and unhooked the vacuum shut-off and then re-attached it. It felt the same way as before, and I KNOW it is hooked up in the right place. I can wiggle it and tug on it, so the tang on the valve IS seated in the little slot. I also practiced on the spare IP I have, and both of them have the same result. With vacuum applied (10 lbs+) to the new shut-off valve with a MityVac, I can get the internal mechanism to move, but for the life of me I can't get the manual STOP lever to move also with only the vacuum (up to 20+ lbs) applied to the shutoff valve. That STOP lever has a really powerful spring on it! Everything I read says the STOP lever SHOULD also move with vacuum applied to the shutoff valve, and mine doesn't, on either the engine IP or my spare IP. Am I misreading the posts, or is there something wrong with both my spare and engine IP?? Did I unseat an internal pin or spring-loaded doohickey while trying to put the new shut-off valve in? If so, is it something inside or outside the IP that I can undo, or reset, or whatever? I'm trying to understand the theory of it in addition to fixing it. I'm not going to start the car again until I feel I understand why this simple and rather straight-forward installation is not turning out that way. One runaway engine event per weekend for me!! Thanks for your insights so far. Skaa

The stop lever on my OM617.952 does NOT move in the fuel cut-off direction unless I press it. I know thia for sure. I have done quite alot of time under the hood just testing ideas.

You might also check the intake for how much crud is built up inside. I have a classmate who HAS seen an OM617 run-away from just the oil/gunk/fumes built up in the manifold and leaking seals. They are called Oil Motors for a good reason.

here's a thought!!! have never tried this but i think it would work. when you get ready to fire your engine up again. tighten the fuel lines on 1,3,5 cyls, then hook rubber fuel lines to 2,4 cyls run these hoses to a catch pan. crank the engine up, if it runs away, you will have plenty of time to shut it down cause it will be missing on 2 cyls. as soon as it starts, you can shut it back off to test your diaphram. what do you guys think??????

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matt

Could work, would be messy.

If I were you, I would figure out what's causing the run-away condition first, before thinking about the shutoff diaphram.

Does anyone have experience with the internals of an MB Bosch Injector Pump? Enough to tell me for sure whether there is anything for me to worry about when restarting my engine with the new shut-off valve attached ? I would certainly appreciate any insights/experiences you have had that would steer me in the right direction. Thanks. Skaa

For a way to shutoff a runaway, how about pulling the breather hose off the top of the valve cover and plugging it? Seems to me the engine stops after a few seconds if you do that. Old trick when working on large diesel engines was to have a board handy that you could slam over the air intake to starve the engine. Only trouble was, danger of pulling in all the seals from vacumm.

I remember years ago I had a 240D that would never shut off once it started , I fixed it with a golf tee, I pluged the vacuum
line coming out next to the brake booster with the y , plug the one not going to the injector pump, I had to lock the drivers side door to shut of the engine , I have seen this lock the drivers door to shut of the engine with other MB diesel's too,
but it ended up being a worn out rubber baffle on the air pump, and need a new to make the proper pressure for the system

Thanks everybody!
I went down to my trusty, local, Bosch Fuel Injector rebuilder today, an 'indy' with all the certifications, 15 years worth, and a tool/testing setup to die for, and here's what he said: I did no damage to the fuel injector pump when it 'ran away'. The rack resets itself. (Assuming I didn't mash or bind anything while I was trying to attach the shut-off valve tang). There are 4 or 5 different models of Bosch Fuel Injector Pumps, mine was model CW on my 82 300SD.
He pointed out that the manual STOP lever and the sliding rack that the vacuum valve hooks to are NOT attached, so don't expect application of vacuum to the shut-off valve to move the STOP lever, it won't. BUT, the reverse is true, the manual STOP lever will move the sliding rack to shutoff position, just like application of vacuum will. He said I could start up the engine again, to test it, with the shut-off valve disconnected, and use the manual STOP to shut it down, and it should run fine. (Except some oil will leak out of the missing shut-off valve hole onto the oil filter housing). He said to have someone else standing by with a 17mm wrench to loosen the injector lines 'just in case' I had damaged something and the rack was binding. He said the ONLY reliable way to shut down my MB, Bosch-fed, 'runaway engine' was to do what I did, loosen the injector feed lines as fast as you could. Messy, but not bad. It took me, maybe, 6-8 seconds to loosen 4 of them. He said blocking the air wouldn't be fast enough, as we're only talking a matter of 10's of seconds, here, before the engine climbs into the 'Red Zone'.
And when I need it, he will rebuild my injector pump for $500 + parts, (if needed) and calibrate my injectors for $15@. He said the Bosch injector pumps easily last 250-300k miles , or more, before they begin to show any wear, and that is usually the fuel delivery pin, which causes hesitation and such as you increase RPMs from idle to 1,000. I don't need those services yet, but nice to have some ballpark figures 'if and when'. Tomorrow dawns a new day!!