|
|
|
|
|
#31
09-22-2003, 05:57 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
What is meant by "known to leak"? I assume you mean it reacts with/otherwise does something to gaskets to create a leak. I am curious since I have a slight "weep" out of my thermostat housing that I was planning to fix in the near future. It would be great if a simple flush and refill with the "correct" coolant would fix it. Of course the damage is probably not reversible anyway...
__________________
Keep everything as simple as possible-but no simpler--Albert Einstein 
|
|
#32
09-22-2003, 06:29 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
When I took my first MB to the dealer for an alignment, they pointed out a minor drip from the water pump. They also said "Ah, you have the 'green stuff' in there. That's part of the problem!" I switched to MB coolant and the drip went away. I don't know why, but the dealer wasn't surprised - guess they'd seen it happen before. This does NOT mean that switching will necessarily cure leaks! The MB stuff does leave a crusty white residue when it dries, where the green stuff doesn't, IIRC. For your t-stat housing, you'll probably need to open it up, scrub the sealing surfaces, and install new gaskets. If the t-stat is old or of unknown age, I'd put in a new OE/OEM t-stat while it's apart. If your engine is an OM617, I'd replace that little 2-inch hose underneath as well unless it looks really good (it's a pain to R&R).
|
|
#33
09-23-2003, 09:05 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
I bought bunches of gallons of the Zerex G-05 from AutoZone for something like $6 a gallon. It's certified for MBs.
In that flush procedure, can the t-stat be removed, or is it necessary to replace it with a "forcibly opened" t-stat?
__________________
Michael LaFleur '05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles '86 300SDL - 360,000 miles '85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold) '89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold) '85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold) '98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold) '75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold) '83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-( '61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes 2004 Papillon (Oliver) 2005 Tzitzu (Griffon) 2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba) 
|
|
#34
09-23-2003, 10:26 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I always remove the thermostat for flushing. This is the first time I heard of "forcing" the thermostat open for a flush. I like to get as much turbulent action as possible during a flush. I don't see how you can get turbulence with the thermostat still in there.
__________________
95 E320 Cabriolet, 159K
|
|
#35
09-23-2003, 10:54 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
The MB thermostat works backwards compared to most other cars. When it opens, it forces coolant to the radiator. If REMOVED, no coolant is forced to the radiator. When closed, it forces coolant to stay in the block.
As per the PDF above and the factory service manual, for the citric acid flush you are to install a "forcibly opened" thermostat (see photo below). For the de-oil procedure, it says to remove the thermostat, which makes no sense - how do you seal the housing, since the t-stat is needed to hold the O-ring in place? Odd. I've been meaning to ask Stu Ritter about that one. Here's the special tool for OM60x engines: 
|
 |
| Bookmarks |
|
|
Linear Mode
