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  #16  
Old 09-24-2003, 02:32 PM
Marshall Booth
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I have assumed (right or wrong) that performance will fade considerably if I have significant stretch because it will affect timing.
Stretch will result in about half the injection timing error as valve timing error (the injection pump is experiences about half the cam timing error since it's located about midway between the cam and the crank). While diesels are not very sensitive to valve timing errors (compared to gasoline engined cars) both of these errors WILL result in some performance deterioration. I believe that I can detect 2 degrees of pump error in any of my cars (I can't detect one degree). Two degrees of pump error would result if the chain were stretched about 4 degrees. My estimate is that this would result in less than 1 second off the 0-62 mph acceleration time, but I haven't measured it. I don't believe that fuel consumption would be off even a couple of percent.

Marshall

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  #17  
Old 09-24-2003, 04:13 PM
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Location: Victoria, Minnesota USA
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I had my timing chain replaced at 200,000 mile on my 350 sdl. It was so loose when the car was first started it would hit the cover. It would tighten up after running a short time, it was time to replace it.
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  #18  
Old 09-26-2003, 05:37 PM
LarryBible
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Fisrt of all we're talking about a STEEL CHAIN, not a RUBBER timing BELT. Secondly, most chain breakages are NOT chain FAILURES.

When a chain breaks it is usually because of a broken rail or something that jams up the chain.

I have NEVER changed an MB chain for preventive maintenance purposes and I have also NEVER had a broken chain.

All that said, it is important to remember that I am the oil change MANIAC on this site. If you are changing oil thoroughly and often, very little microscopic grit builds up in the oil. It is the microscopic grit the wears out the chains and components.

Good luck,
Change oil hot and change oil often.
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  #19  
Old 09-26-2003, 07:59 PM
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Location: Lathrup Village, Michigan
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Yo Larry, how's the new job goin'?
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Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

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  #20  
Old 09-26-2003, 09:29 PM
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My highest mileage car, the 82 300D, has 207K on the odometer and last year one mechanic told me the chain wasn't stretched when I let him do valve adjustment shortly after I bought the car (now I do it myself). Yet another shop recommends timing chain replacement every 200K miles regardless of stretch or condition. I think the reason is quite obvious.

Wow Larry, your 84 240D has 533K miles? That's amazing! Does it have the original engine and transmission? Even if not, it's still amazing.
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  #21  
Old 09-27-2003, 09:48 AM
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Location: CA
Posts: 531
A couple of statistics

On my 1983 300SD (617.951) I did the first chain (and tensioner) change at 105k, as it was stretched 7 degrees. Lots of city driving, on and off the gas (sorry, diesel).

That replacement chain is now at 198,700 miles, so has, say, 94,000 miles on it and is stretched just one degree. Mostly freeway miles.

Oil and filter changes on both have been at 2,500 mile intervals using the cheapest big name dino oil I could find. Cannot speak for the first 44,000 miles on the first chain as those were run up by the original owner.

Which reminds me, I have to post my diesel timing piece on my web site soon....
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  #22  
Old 09-27-2003, 02:24 PM
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Location: central Texas
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I am amazed that so many posts have landed on this thread without anyone mentioning the Factory Shop manual instructions concerning using an offset key on the cam sproket. ( unless I read too fast ). I also think that Larry's suggestion that the chain rails and tensioner account for many of the " catastrophic chain failures" is correct ... but since it is so much trouble to get to them to replace them one might as well change out the chain at the same time in my opinion...
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  #23  
Old 09-27-2003, 11:38 PM
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Location: Boondocks
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You raise a very good point Leathermang, I change my timing chain at 160,000 miles, this change includes new tensioner, rail and sprockets. Considering that the sprockets, rails and tensioner arent that expensive, it is a good insurance for persons like myself, my engine is frequently pushed towards the redline and it is a turbo on top of that.
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  #24  
Old 02-14-2011, 10:21 PM
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I took of the head from my 1974 240D had a broken head bolt, I got this car never heard it run but it is a one owner, I didnot know that I should have locked the pump down, I put the engine on top dead and the cam on tdc, removed head and found a broken head bolt next to the cyclinder that had 70 lbs compresson, I did not even check the others, no need to, what I need to know is can I set pump with the proper tool, and reset the crank and cam shaft? please help, thanks jcenterprizes.john@gmail.com

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