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  #1  
Old 09-30-2003, 01:54 AM
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: So Cal
Posts: 54
leaky injector?

I've just taken the (plenum?) off to replace the return lines and noticed that the #5 injector had quite a bit of fuel around it. After I pulled off the return line to the injector, I heard a sucking sound, which I'm guessing means the lines probably aren't leaking. If that's the case does this injector need replacing/rebuilding and if so do I need to take out all the rest to be calibrated(all the others are dry)?
Matt H

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  #2  
Old 09-30-2003, 10:41 AM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Central Oregon
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if there is fuel around it...

My guess is it is the return line leaking fuel.
There is not really anywhere for the fuel to leak externally from an injector that I know of. Unless the injector is fallng apart which I seriously doubt.
I could be wrong here as i do not know your year and make but on my two cars it is always the return line that is leaking.
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  #3  
Old 09-30-2003, 11:30 AM
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I too have fuel around all five of my injectors. I am positive it is the return line because the ends, where they connect the injector are wet. they are brand new though, is it allright to put something on them to keep them tight? or maybey i have the wrong kind of hose it is the black rubber with braided cloth on the outside. thanks for the help
lc
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  #4  
Old 09-30-2003, 11:50 AM
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: So Cal
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leaky fuel lines/service/kleen wheels

It's a 96' E300 with 115,000, and while taking the return lines off, I noticed that the lines, especially near the injector, are very hard. I think I'll replace those first, although, since we've owned this vehicle(30,000), the only thing I've replaced has been the oil filter(many times), fuel filter(3x's), air filter(replaced with a RamX) and one trans service(and tires, of course). My point being, no other service has ever been done and I was told by a ind. Benz mechanic that the injectors should be cleaned, filter in the power steering needs to be replaced, trans needs a service, rear differential fluid replaced along with a brake fluid flush. Now the question, is it a good time to do all these things?
A side note/question, he also said because I had kleen wheels on, not enough cooling was getting to the rotors which in turn has turned them a bluish color. Is that common with kleen whees when used with stock rims?
Thanks,
Matt H
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  #5  
Old 10-01-2003, 08:00 AM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Central Oregon
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Over my head...

I hate to say it but the Kleen wheels thing is way over my head.

I have no idea even what they are...
Sorry.

As to the fuel lines they are a metric braided line (dealer item?) that is rubber in the middle surrounded by woven cord and frankly they are a real PITA to get on and off. Watch out that you do not damage the barb that they fit onto so no heavy pliers or knives please. If they break off it can get expensive...

When putting the hoses back on they are really hard to get onto the barbs due to lack of space and the fact that you can only get enough fingers on it to make you feel like you have a grip. I think that if someone was inexperienced or in a hurry it would be possible for the ends close to the injectors to get twisted and turned such that the rubber inside could fail causing fairly new hoses to start leaking. Due to the fragility of the barbs I don't think I would try any kind of clamp or anything. Just a personal call though...

Some of the wiser folks here might have some tricks for installing the hoses. Personally I have a small jar with very hot water in it next to me which seemed to help a little. The few drops of residual water did not affect anything...

Good luck.
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'99 S420 - Mommies
'72 280SE 4.5 - looking to breathe life into it
'84 300SD Grey - Sold
'85 300SD Silver - Sold
'78 Ski Nautique
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  #6  
Old 10-01-2003, 01:04 PM
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: So Cal
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Fisherman,
Thanks for the reply, the hoses were a definite PITA to get off, I used a combination of an exacto knife(to cut the outer cover) and needle nose( I don't think I scuffed the edges of the barbs). The hose was $14.00 for about 3+feet(boy, was that cutting it close), and putting it on I used the needle nose with a little bit of carb cleaner for lube. I replaced the o-rings on the intake crossover and when I started it, it took a while but finally caught and now runs great. I'll probably check in a couple of days to see if there are any signs of fuel around the lines.
BTY, kleen wheels are dust covers that keep brake dust from accumulating so quickly on the front rims. The problem is that airflow is restricted(even though there are vents in the covers) to the rotor.
Matt H
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  #7  
Old 10-02-2003, 12:46 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: PA
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96300D,

Why would you change the fuel filters so often? Are you getting a lot of dirty fuel? The MB manual says every 30,000 miles but even that is too often if don't get dirty fuel.

I only replace fuel filters as needed.



P E H
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  #8  
Old 10-02-2003, 11:33 AM
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: So Cal
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P E H,
When I first bought the car at 30,000, for peace of mind, I replaced it, and then of course at 60,000 to keep the car on schedule. Then, at around 80 or so, the car just died on me as I was driving down the street going 40mph. Maybe the fuel I'm getting isn't that great(usually Union 76).
Matt
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  #9  
Old 10-02-2003, 02:31 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Canada
Posts: 127
OEM return line inferior IMHO

About the return lines, save your money and grief and switch to the tiny lawnmower fuel line from Home Depot. Its a lot cheaper than $14 US for 3 feet, its some kind of plastic rubber that doesn't get brittle and its somewhat clear. I've used this for 2 years now and no problems.
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  #10  
Old 10-03-2003, 09:20 AM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Central Oregon
Posts: 1,004
Home Depot fuel line

Have you got a manufacturer and maybe a part number?

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'99 S420 - Mommies
'72 280SE 4.5 - looking to breathe life into it
'84 300SD Grey - Sold
'85 300SD Silver - Sold
'78 Ski Nautique
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