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  #1  
Old 10-03-2003, 05:10 PM
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Location: Phoenix Arizona. Ex Durban R.S.A.
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Calling all 220D owners past and present

I have the opportunity to possibly acquire a 114/115? 220D four speed manual for sub 500 bucks. Though the body is good and it's apparently goes well it's definately a project car. I know that the starter pull is missing - no idea how they currently start it - and the garage guy says the tranny needs to be re-sealed.
And there is an after market fuel cutoff.

I know it's slow, but as a city - with some highway - commuter, is it a viable vehicle in today's traffic? I know the other Peter has a 220D that he's using. Is it really drivable as opposed to being just a novelty that I will also use to start training myself on mechanics?

- Peter.

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81 240D stick. 316000 miles at purchase. 342000 now
2000 GMC Sonoma
Formerly...
2002 Kia Rio. Worst crap on four wheels
1981 240D 4spd stick. 389000 miles. Deceased Jan 08
1984 123 200
1979 116 280S
1972 Cadillac Sedan DeVille
1971 108 280S
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  #2  
Old 10-03-2003, 05:13 PM
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I drove a '68 220D for a few years, and really liked it. Gutless as hell, but kinda fun to drive. You just have to allow lotsa room when you pull out in traffic. The smoke screen you trail behind you keeps the impatient tailgaters off your rear too.
It cruised freeways at 60-70mph all day long too.
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past MB rides:
'68 220D
'68 220D(another one)
'67 230
'84 SD
Current rides:
'06 Lexus RX330
'93 Ford F-250
'96 Corvette
'99 Polaris 700 RMK sled
2011 Polaris Assault
'86 Yamaha TT350(good 'ol thumper)
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  #3  
Old 10-04-2003, 03:52 AM
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Location: NE Okla
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Drove the listed 220D/8 for 20yrs from 1970 to 1990. It was no rocket, but usually ran it at 65 or so on the hiway (interstate). Certainly no problem in somewhat rural towns here in NE Okla, as used it for daily commute the whole time. Usually got about 28mpg in town and over 32 on the road, if elevation was not above 3000ft. In mountains of Colo was only place it ever smoked! Brakes were exceptional, both in stopping and pad life. Eventually added a 10 gal poly-ethylene tank in forward part of trunk for increased range. Mine was also a fourspeed with ATF for lube. There were some 220D's with auto tranny's avail, but would not advise anyone going that route.
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1961 190Db retired
1968 220D/8 325,000
1983 300D 164,150
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  #4  
Old 10-04-2003, 10:08 AM
Cazzzidy
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I just bought a 72 220D (W115) for $2000.

Mine was fortunante to come with a rebuilt motor, new paintjob, and immaculate interior. I guess I stumbled on to it.

This car is a good looking, classic mercedes. I feel good driving in it. It handles very well for an old car, consistantly suprising me with how good it grips the road. Acceleration is not great, but once you start driving it, you get used to it. I feel safe in my area (Santa Cruz, CA), but was a little scared taking it to the confusing network of many-lane highways in San Jose. I find daily city driving is fine, small highways with long ramps are fine, but it gets a little hairy on large, short ramped, crazy highways. Not a car to take to LA or NY, IMO.

I also enjoy working on it very much. The motor sits neatly in the bay allowing much room around it for servicing. I replaced the vacume pump diaphram without removing the radiator or pump. My hands fit in there with room to spare -- this suprised me after working on an inline 6 W201.

The only thing I would recommend you watch for is noise. On the highway, my fourspeed must be doing 3500RPM at 65 ... which is not super pleasant in a car with no real firewall or interior insulation. I am looking in to better soundproofing my car.
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  #5  
Old 10-05-2003, 02:05 PM
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Location: Evansville, Indiana
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Driving a 220D is, well, a leisurely experience. One learns to wait for openings is traffic, for instance, to avoid getting rear ended!

Open road driving is fine, but expect lots of people to pass you. Wave nicely, they must be going someplace important, like the ditch ahead.....

Handling is superb. The chasis is designed to go 120 mph with a big six in it, so you will never approach the handling limits unless you are goind downhill with the clutch in (not recommended) and you will never need to downshift for down grades.....

They are a bit noisy, the don't accelerate very well (I have an auto tranny, be glad you don't!), and the AC will almost stop the car, but they ARE a classic Benz, both in styling and driving. Quite a nice ride, and 30+ mpg too.

Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #6  
Old 10-05-2003, 03:36 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Phoenix Arizona. Ex Durban R.S.A.
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Bricks

I'm liking what I'm hearing. Even though I live in Phoenix I think I could manage with a stick shift as a town commuter with occasional after hours freeway commuting. With my job schedule I'm often driving home long after the worst of rush hour has passed us by. I really like the shape of these cars even more. A true classic German brick I think.

For me the only problem would be that this car is a real project and I dont know if I have the mechanical aptitude to take it on. Although it's not my primary transportation so I dont have the problem of having to get anything done in any time frame. Still. We shall see...

- Peter.
__________________
81 240D stick. 316000 miles at purchase. 342000 now
2000 GMC Sonoma
Formerly...
2002 Kia Rio. Worst crap on four wheels
1981 240D 4spd stick. 389000 miles. Deceased Jan 08
1984 123 200
1979 116 280S
1972 Cadillac Sedan DeVille
1971 108 280S
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  #7  
Old 10-06-2003, 09:37 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: eastern ND
Posts: 657
500 bucks and you can't hardly go wrong, unless there's rust in the wrong places.

Check the points where the suspension mount to the unibody. Called subframe mounts in MB-speak, wishbone mounts to the old-timers. Also check the jack points (pipe stubs with the holes pointing out the sides of the car). Jacking points can sometimes be repaired but repairs to those subframe mounts are for the experts only.

The other common place for rust is the front fenders behind the headlight trim, but that's fixable.

Otherwise it's a great car to learn to diesel and to learn the quirks of independent suspension. At this age I wouldn't make it my primary car until you're completely comfortable about repairing it. Most of the time you'll be the only one on the road who knows what's going on.
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  #8  
Old 10-06-2003, 10:09 AM
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Location: Phoenix Arizona. Ex Durban R.S.A.
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Rust in the jack points

Thank's dabenz.

I'm well aware of the rust issue in the jacking points from my first two Mercedes. My 116 actually collapsed on the jack stands when I was changing tires on it once because of that!

This car however appears to be completely rust free. Seems to have been a desert car all it's life. We shall see.

- Peter.
__________________
81 240D stick. 316000 miles at purchase. 342000 now
2000 GMC Sonoma
Formerly...
2002 Kia Rio. Worst crap on four wheels
1981 240D 4spd stick. 389000 miles. Deceased Jan 08
1984 123 200
1979 116 280S
1972 Cadillac Sedan DeVille
1971 108 280S
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  #9  
Old 10-06-2003, 11:03 AM
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Location: PA
Posts: 5,440
pj67coll,

The 220D is one of the simplest cars ever made save maybe a model T Ford but yet it has a refined ride and good handeling. It has no electronics except for the radio. Its easy to work on except for replacing the oil filter. If you can't do the repairs and maintenence on a 220D, you can't do it on anything. Its a good start to get accustomed to MB Diesels. It is very reliable and you can get up to 35 MPG.

I still have a 220D but I don't drive it anymore because I got spoiled by the power and size of the turbo engine 300SDs.

P E H
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  #10  
Old 10-06-2003, 10:40 PM
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I want to second the comment about what a PITA changing the oil filter is on these engines. Also, if the heater fan dies, it's a mortifyingly in-depth affair to change out.

Having said that, I truly miss my old 220 D, as it was rock-solid and bullet-proof. I'd buy another one in a heartbeat if the price were right. I once drove mine from Washington State to L.A., cruising at 70mph most of the time. I got 30 mpg no matter how or where I drove that car.

Without the factory starter pull, you're probably gonna have problems with glowing, and starting/stopping the engine reliably. I'd put a good used one back in there. Though I hope your left arm has some good muscles, cuz you'll need them with a pull start.

'73 220 D (RIP)
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  #11  
Old 10-06-2003, 11:59 PM
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Location: NE Okla
Posts: 1,104
On the board here the "starter pull" is affectionately known as a Gorilla knob. This kinda validates what Zeitgeist said when he suggested that: "Though I hope your left arm has some good muscles, cuz you'll need them with a pull start." However, seems as though I tended to use the right arm to pull it rather than the left. Wish the clock in the 220D had been as vocal as the one in the 123, great to time the glow after the lite goes out or in the case of the 220 the whole glow!!

I would have to say that after 20yrs of driving the 220D, that it isn't really that bad a job to change the oil filter on these engines. Did it in a very lite colored shirt once and never got a drop of that black oil on me.
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1968 220D/8 325,000
1983 300D 164,150
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  #12  
Old 10-07-2003, 12:45 AM
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Quote:
However, seems as though I tended to use the right arm to pull it rather than the left.
...uh, well jeez, now I can't remember....is it on the left side? It's been nearly a decade and seems like a foggy memory.
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  #13  
Old 10-08-2003, 01:42 PM
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I think I used to use both hands to pull mine in the winter. Had to let her glow a bit longer to light off. Really had to train the wife how to start the thing And I had to take it into a body shop (after getting rear-ended by a truck). When I picked the car up, all they said was they "had fun" trying to start it

__________________
past MB rides:
'68 220D
'68 220D(another one)
'67 230
'84 SD
Current rides:
'06 Lexus RX330
'93 Ford F-250
'96 Corvette
'99 Polaris 700 RMK sled
2011 Polaris Assault
'86 Yamaha TT350(good 'ol thumper)
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