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  #16  
Old 10-14-2003, 02:54 PM
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I have not had a problem bleeding the clutch the traditional way by pumping, holding the pedal down and then opening the bleeder screw. Repeat until all the air is out.

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  #17  
Old 10-15-2003, 08:45 AM
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Well, I don't think I'll have a problem bleeding the slave cylinder now, thanks to all the input.
I'm still not sure how to get the pilot bearing out, though. Does anyone have any experience doing this? I really don't want to leave the old one in there.

Thanks!
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1982 300TDT Wagon
1982 240D Euro!, 4spd manual-Parts car now, dead engine
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1989 Ford F150 (rust bucket) For Sale!
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  #18  
Old 10-15-2003, 08:55 AM
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Ok,,, if your pilot bearing only consists of the outer shell of the old one.... then you can sharpen a chisel and cut the side in a couple of places ... it should come out fine then... you should be cutting along the longitudinal axis of the car... in line with the crankshaft... you want a thin chisel and the part sliding along the flywheel should be rounded... and it helps to keep it in line if you have an angle to the cutting surface so you are lifting and slipping along the flywheel but cutting the bearing shell.....
Or, I have heard of people putting grease in the hole and using a flat ended round punch to fill up the hole... and hitting it... which can push the pilot bearing out with hydraulic pressure...
VERY IMPORTANT WHEN USING ANY PUNCH OR CHISEL TO USE EYE PROTECTION...
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  #19  
Old 10-15-2003, 11:53 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Northern Calif. (Fairfield Area)
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PILOT BEARINGS

The little cover is there to protect the bearing from grime getting into the gearing. Yes, you can take the # off the bearing and go to any good parts house and get the bearing, but ask for the sealed version. If you get the sealed version, you can throw the little cover away. You probably buggered it up getting it out anyway. You can try a chain store for the bearing, but you will probably be waited on by a young kid with the contenance of a deer caught in the headlights of a car. To save buying a special puller for a one time job, fill the old pilot bearing with grease, insert a dowel that just slides in the hole, smack the dowel with a hammer, and remove the bearing hydraulicly.

BLEEDING CLUTCHES

I've covered this in other threads, but the simplest way to get the job done with 100% success is to go buy a TOP quality oil can and fit it with a short piece of hose. Fill the can with brake fluid, connect the other end of the hose to the slave bleed screw, and keep squeezing the trigger until you see some fluid in the bottom of the reservoir. Close the bleed screw( assuming you opened it), top off the fluid, and it's Miller time.

The Germans taught me a lot of these cool tricks when I was serving my apprenticeship at the dealership many years ago.

Peter
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  #20  
Old 10-16-2003, 10:38 AM
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Thanks again for everyone's help! I got it back together last night about midnight. It went pretty smooth, luckily. The new release bearing is a LOT lighter than the old one, I hope it holds up OK. I ran into a problem with the slave cylinder though. The one I got from Fastlane had different mounting holes, so I had to put the old one back in untili I get the right one from them, hopefully soon.
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Michael Roth

1982 300TDT Wagon
1982 240D Euro!, 4spd manual-Parts car now, dead engine
88 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-fixing up for offroading
1989 Ford F150 (rust bucket) For Sale!
1953 Dodge B-4F, 1 1/2 ton Stake Bed (new restoration project)
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  #21  
Old 10-16-2003, 10:46 AM
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Good Show...Let us know about the pilot bearing when you get a chance.
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  #22  
Old 10-16-2003, 10:52 AM
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Well, I hate to say it, but I left the old one in there. I got the cover off the old one, but I couldn't pull the bearing out. I tried for half an hour or so. I probably really needed some kind of different tool for that part. The grease thing didn't work, unfortunately. I couldn't get enough room to work right, the trannie was still under there. The old one seemed just fine when I checked it. Hopefully I don't regret it.

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Michael Roth

1982 300TDT Wagon
1982 240D Euro!, 4spd manual-Parts car now, dead engine
88 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-fixing up for offroading
1989 Ford F150 (rust bucket) For Sale!
1953 Dodge B-4F, 1 1/2 ton Stake Bed (new restoration project)
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