Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 10-12-2003, 09:48 PM
McRoth's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Grafton, OH
Posts: 291
Pilot Bearing

Well, I got the old clutch out & found that my release bearing was shot, actually worse than shot! It disintegrated when I pulled it out & half the balls are missing it looks like! Of course the one that came in the clutch kit I got was the wrong one, I'm checking with Phil now to get the right one.
Well, my question is where is the pilot bearing? I think I found it in the center of the fly wheel, but it is covered by what seems to be a pressed in washer. I tried prying a little at it, but didn't want to use too much force for fear of bending it. Is this the right place? If so, how do I get it out? It seems OK, but since I'm in there anyhow I want to replace everything that should be replaced.

Thanks!

__________________
Michael Roth

1982 300TDT Wagon
1982 240D Euro!, 4spd manual-Parts car now, dead engine
88 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-fixing up for offroading
1989 Ford F150 (rust bucket) For Sale!
1953 Dodge B-4F, 1 1/2 ton Stake Bed (new restoration project)
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 10-12-2003, 09:56 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 18,350
Yes, that's the pilot bearing. It doesn't see a lot of wear because there is only a differential between the pilot shaft and the flywheel when the clutch is in.
Do a search before you remove it. There was a recent thread about someone who was having a very difficult time getting a pilot bearing that fit. Since yours is a Euro model, you may face the same problem.
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 10-13-2003, 12:16 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Back in Colorado for now
Posts: 1,315
Quote:
Originally posted by kerry edwards
Yes, that's the pilot bearing. It doesn't see a lot of wear because there is only a differential between the pilot shaft and the flywheel when the clutch is in.
Do a search before you remove it. There was a recent thread about someone who was having a very difficult time getting a pilot bearing that fit. Since yours is a Euro model, you may face the same problem.
I am that person having the "difficult" time.

Turns out that the '84's had a 34mm pilot hole, instead of the 35mm like most others and all the 240D's.

What you probably have in the end of the crank is what's left of the bearing.

Bearing "should" be a 35mmx15mmx11mm, any bearing house should have stock for around $8.

Measure the ID of the crank and make SURE that it's 35 and NOT 34, otherwise, you'll have to source a non-standard bearing from somewhere.

If you DO find that it is 34mm AND find a bearing to fit with no mods, I'd be VERY interested to hear about it and where I might obtain one.
__________________
1984 300D Turbo - 4-speed manual conversion, mid-level resto

1983 300D - parts car

1979 300TD Auto - Parts car.

1985 300D Auto - Wrecked/Parts.


=========================

"If you don't know where you are going, any road will get you there". Lewis Carrol
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 10-13-2003, 09:56 AM
McRoth's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Grafton, OH
Posts: 291
Thanks for the tips! I'll check that out.

I have one more question, this time about the slave cylinder. There are two cylinders listed for my car, one ate, the other doesn't have a name listed. Does it matter which one I use? I'd like to order it now instead of waiting till I get home to check it. There is a $20 or so price difference between them too.
my Chassis # is -219674

Thanks!
__________________
Michael Roth

1982 300TDT Wagon
1982 240D Euro!, 4spd manual-Parts car now, dead engine
88 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-fixing up for offroading
1989 Ford F150 (rust bucket) For Sale!
1953 Dodge B-4F, 1 1/2 ton Stake Bed (new restoration project)
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 10-13-2003, 02:22 PM
McRoth's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Grafton, OH
Posts: 291
Phil just got back to me on that one. One is OEM, the other not, but he says both are good.

Thanks
__________________
Michael Roth

1982 300TDT Wagon
1982 240D Euro!, 4spd manual-Parts car now, dead engine
88 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-fixing up for offroading
1989 Ford F150 (rust bucket) For Sale!
1953 Dodge B-4F, 1 1/2 ton Stake Bed (new restoration project)
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 10-13-2003, 02:48 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Boulder Creek, CA
Posts: 86
Quote:
Originally posted by McRoth
. There is a $20 or so price difference between them too.
my Chassis # is -219674
I just replaced my slave cylinder for an identical model 240D. I noticed the part number on the 20 dollar cheaper one was identical to the more expensive cylinder. I ordered the cheaper one and it comes in and ATE box. ATE is the more expensive version. This was on mbz.org.

It looks exactly like the OEM part (same casting)

Your mileage may vary...

M.
__________________
He's wild and free and so close to it only Gunk will clean his fingernails!
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 10-13-2003, 02:52 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Boulder Creek, CA
Posts: 86
BTW---

Bleeding the slave cylinder is a pain in the butt. I eventually got one of those suction bleeders and that worked well.

m>
__________________
He's wild and free and so close to it only Gunk will clean his fingernails!
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 10-13-2003, 02:59 PM
McRoth's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Grafton, OH
Posts: 291
Thanks for the tips! That's interesting about the slave cylinder, probably somebody reconditioning the older ate ones.
That kinda sucks about bleeding the cylinder! I'll have to look for that suction bleeder when I'm at the parts store tomorrow.

Thanks Again!
__________________
Michael Roth

1982 300TDT Wagon
1982 240D Euro!, 4spd manual-Parts car now, dead engine
88 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-fixing up for offroading
1989 Ford F150 (rust bucket) For Sale!
1953 Dodge B-4F, 1 1/2 ton Stake Bed (new restoration project)
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 10-13-2003, 04:33 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Boulder Creek, CA
Posts: 86
Quote:
Originally posted by McRoth
That's interesting about the slave cylinder, probably somebody reconditioning the older ate ones.
No, It was a new part.

M.
__________________
He's wild and free and so close to it only Gunk will clean his fingernails!
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 10-14-2003, 09:28 AM
Rick Miley's Avatar
Spark Free
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Land O Lakes, FL
Posts: 3,086
You need pressure, not suction to correctly bleed the clutch system. It is done by forcing brake fluid into the bleed screw on the slave cylinder. The fluid then travels to the master cylinder and up to the brake fluid reservoir. You could use a pressure bleeder, or connect a hose from the clutch slave to one of the front brake calipers and use the brakes to provide pressure. If you do that, you must make sure the hose is very tight on the brake bleeder or it'll blow off.

BTW, a MityVac brake bleeding kit can be used to provide fluid under pressure, but it doesn't work very well at all. Leaks all over the place. Does this sound like the voice of experience?
__________________
Rick Miley
2014 Tesla Model S
2018 Tesla Model 3
2017 Nissan LEAF
Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro
Chain Elongation References
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 10-14-2003, 09:55 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Back in Colorado for now
Posts: 1,315
Quote:
Originally posted by Rick Miley
You need pressure, not suction to correctly bleed the clutch system. It is done by forcing brake fluid into the bleed screw on the slave cylinder. The fluid then travels to the master cylinder and up to the brake fluid reservoir. You could use a pressure bleeder, or connect a hose from the clutch slave to one of the front brake calipers and use the brakes to provide pressure. If you do that, you must make sure the hose is very tight on the brake bleeder or it'll blow off.

BTW, a MityVac brake bleeding kit can be used to provide fluid under pressure, but it doesn't work very well at all. Leaks all over the place. Does this sound like the voice of experience?
OK, so that's probably why my clutch still doesn't work right. I used a mighty vac bleeder to do the clutch slave on a swap-in tranny (dry master and slave).

Guess I'll get five feet of small ID hose and do the brake thing since I have no other way of pressurizing the slave.
__________________
1984 300D Turbo - 4-speed manual conversion, mid-level resto

1983 300D - parts car

1979 300TD Auto - Parts car.

1985 300D Auto - Wrecked/Parts.


=========================

"If you don't know where you are going, any road will get you there". Lewis Carrol
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 10-14-2003, 11:05 AM
Stevo's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: NW WA
Posts: 6,299
McRoth

Rick is right... Not a big deal..but you must have a snug fit of the hose on the bleed fittings. I use as short a piece of clear hose as I can and pump the brakes like crazy, close both bleed fittings and your done.
__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 10-14-2003, 11:08 AM
McRoth's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Grafton, OH
Posts: 291
That sounds pretty easy, thanks! I'll just clamp the hose on either end to make sure it's ok.
__________________
Michael Roth

1982 300TDT Wagon
1982 240D Euro!, 4spd manual-Parts car now, dead engine
88 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-fixing up for offroading
1989 Ford F150 (rust bucket) For Sale!
1953 Dodge B-4F, 1 1/2 ton Stake Bed (new restoration project)
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 10-14-2003, 11:46 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Boulder Creek, CA
Posts: 86
I used suction on mine and it worked fine.

M.
__________________
He's wild and free and so close to it only Gunk will clean his fingernails!
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 10-14-2003, 12:49 PM
Stevo's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: NW WA
Posts: 6,299
McROTH

"just clamp the hose " That might be a PIA. I found clear hose in the local hardware store that fit tight enough.

"Mordecai I used suction on mine and it worked fine"

I couldn't get the speedy bleeder to work on the clutch, maybe i didn't work hard enough at it. It sure is a good tool for the brakes and well worth the $.

Steve

Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:18 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page