On the verge of serius spring compressor accident. - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

R Leo · #31 10-20-2003, 04:45 PM

I didn't find the ST all that difficult to use...IMHO, it could benefit from having a thrust washer under the head of the drive bolt. I've never looked at the Klann until now. With the exception of the plate locking arrangement which differs slightly, it appears almost identical to the ST compressor.

FYI, the ST unit also comes with 4 spring plates and can be used on W107, 116, 123, 124, 126, 129, 140, 201, 202 chassis.

If you are doing any suspension work, you'll probably need one of these too: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=38335

The HF press makes short work of pushing the trailing arm bushings out and in...

#32 10-20-2003, 06:05 PM

The bomb has been defused!

*loud applause*

Thank you, thank you...

I ended up securing the current hooks with locking pliars, containing it with a C clamp, wrapping it in a large blanket, and covering the spring with a large tireless wheel. I then slowly backed off the compressor. Ta da! It decompressed steadily and the bulge dissapeared. I now have a safe, happy spring laying on my garage floor. No injuries or property damage!

I agree, this is a lesson for all.

Springs are very, very dangerous under compression. Using the wrong or inadequate tool will exponentiolly increase the risk. As with the previous suspension work I have done on my W201 (new lowering springs), the Klann style tool is the only way to go.

Nevertheless, I do have faith in the claw tool too. It worked well. It was only my mishandeling of the spring that caused the risk. Also note that I had it fully compressed, with mabye a couple MM between coils.

I think I might try again with this tool under half or less compression. I will remove/drop the control arm. It is simply not worth trying to compress the spring all the way with an inferior tool to save an hour of safe, easy work.

notlostmaybe · #33 10-20-2003, 09:54 PM

how to remove the springs on a 115 safely and on the cheap.
equiptment: one roll of strong bailing wire. various pliers. wire
cutters.
per spring; cut 20-40 pieces of wire 10-12 inches long (your call)
release pressure on the sprind somewhat. take each piece and double wrap around two coils, sort of snug, but not too tight and twist together 3-4 times. space these from top to bottom of the spring a couple of inches apart all the way around.begin to release pressure on the spring. if you used strong wire, enough of them, you will do fine and the spring wont bulge. to release the spring once it is out, lay it on the ground and begin sniping the wires at one end and working one after the other. pressure will be released in a controlled manor. (

untested plan B) plan A was $10 spring compressors from harbor freight: NO way, though 2 sets might work)

gsxr · #34 10-20-2003, 10:05 PM

RLeo,

The issue with the ST unit is twofold. First, the method of locking the shaft to the plates. On the ST, it uses hex flats. These must be almost perfectly aligned to seat properly. I fought with one for nearly 45 minutes on the front of my 124. Drove me nuts. The Klann uses three "fingers" with 3 grooves on the plate. It allows for much more angle on the plate while still locking in place. The other issue is the size of the center shaft. I've been told that the ST unit doesn't always fit through the holes in the frame on some chassis, like the 123 fronts. The Klann is tight, but just barely slips through. I heard of other folks having to cut/trim the opening to make the ST fit. The ST did fit ok for the 124 springs though. Like I said, it's not a huge deal, but it is a minor nuisance. After using both, I felt the $200 price difference was worth it. Now if the Klann was $1k+, I would have bought the ST as well!

Other folks feel the ST is fine for the 2 bills saved, and I don't argue that if you're on a budget. It's still about a zillion times safer than the bailing wire & duct tape methods outlined in some posts above...

Joe Blowe · #35 10-20-2003, 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by notlostmaybe
how to remove the springs on a 115 safely and on the cheap.
equiptment: one roll of strong bailing wire. various pliers. wire
cutters.

dude, i wanna party with you!!

dmorrison · #36 10-20-2003, 11:35 PM

gsxr

The Sir Tool compressor works great on the 123 body. No problems.
Yes I would say the hex bolt does require that you make sure the hex head is correctly set in the plate. This is the correct method for use of the tool. Every tool has a right way and wrong way of using it. The Sir Tool has to be used as designed. I did my 123 front a rear and had no problems using it. Would the Klann tool be better, It might be. but I've learned to use this one. I feel it is safe and why would I sell this one and spend $200 more. Each tool, car, piece of machinery has its design specifications and limitations. Learn them, know them and don't try to use them in a fashion that is against the engineering design of the tool.

Dave

gsxr · #37 10-21-2003, 11:20 AM

Dave,

I think we're agreeing!

What I was trying to say is that in order to use the ST compressor as designed, it's not always easy. On my 124, I needed to clamp a good 7-8 coils. But with the top plate all the way up the spring, it was at a slight angle, and the hex flats just would NOT line up and the shaft wouldn't seat & lock-in to the plate. Drove me batty. The Klann design allows for more movement while still locking in place. Both work, but the ST can - in some cases - require more fiddling. All I know is that I fought with the ST and it really ticked me off, but the Klann was a breeze - same car, same springs. I wouldn't recommend selling the ST and buying a Klann, but for people who haven't bought a compressor yet, I just want them to know there IS a difference!

xa0ax · #38 10-21-2003, 04:31 PM

found this on ebay. Has anyone tried it before?

HYDRAULIC STRUT SPRING COMPRESSOR

What are the outer diameter of mb coil springs?

R Leo · #39 10-21-2003, 05:32 PM

You MIGHT be able to use that rig on the front springs of a 123 but the way it's configured in the pic, there's no way it's gonna work on the back ones.