Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 10-17-2003, 11:31 PM
79-240d-project's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Pacific Northwest, Washington State
Posts: 253
Question 79-240d oil change question

Howdy Gang,

When I purchased the oil filter for the 240d the salesman gave me two little rubber o-rings, much smaller than the large one that came with the filter. He said do not forget to put these on. The filter came with a pack of items. Large o-ring I understand. The copper and steel washers? I put the copper on the drain plug and saved the steel one. What is that one for, a different model?

The 1979 240d is a model 123.123 with engine type 616.912. Both the Chiltons and the MB maintenance manual make no mention in the text or the pictures of the little o-rings.

The oil filter is the 2nd version, The filter cover is the long post attached to the cover with the fastening nuts(2) on the outer edge. When I replaced the cover on the oil filter housing the long metal post fit really snug thru the rubber openings of the oil filter. It took a good push to get the cover all the way down. I am wondering if the little o-rings were put in place(?) would they stay. The post on the filter cover has two different looking steel rings near the bottom. These are visible in the MB manual, but no mention of the little o-rings.

Ok, so where do they go? Am I missing something?

Thanks,

J

Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 10-17-2003, 11:52 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: NE Okla
Posts: 1,104
The two little o-rings go on the long rod down near the bottom. The old ones are probably very hard and brittle. Most people aren't aware they are there, so they don't get changed.

Believe that the other washer is for a different model. If that's wrong others will chime in!
__________________
1961 190Db retired
1968 220D/8 325,000
1983 300D 164,150
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 10-18-2003, 12:00 AM
79-240d-project's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Pacific Northwest, Washington State
Posts: 253
I used a dental pick on the two different colored areas down low on the post and they are steel. So I imagine the small o-rings were not in place to begin with.

I did notice at that area there are small gaps(very small). O-rings must go there?
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 10-18-2003, 12:57 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: NE Okla
Posts: 1,104
That is where they go. You may want to just try and crack the steel things out of there. My O-rings were so hard and brittle that they shattered into a number of pieces each and scattered all over heck. The o-ring grooves are, when clear, of adequate height and depth to accomodate the small o-rings I bought.
__________________
1961 190Db retired
1968 220D/8 325,000
1983 300D 164,150
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 10-18-2003, 03:03 PM
Stevo's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: NW WA
Posts: 6,299
"So I imagine the small o-rings were not in place to begin with."

Interesting...I think those o rings are to keep the oil from running out of the filter when you stop the engine. The absence of which "should" have made your oil pressure "jumpy" Was this the case? Your gauge should be pegged when running and 1or 2 bars at idle.

The steel washer goes on the center post on top of the filter
__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 10-18-2003, 03:19 PM
79-240d-project's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Pacific Northwest, Washington State
Posts: 253
You were correct. The old o-rings were old, very hard, and brittle. Shattered all over the place. Got the new ones in place and all buttoned up.

Found another picture of the different type of oil filter canister and it looks like the extra steel washer is for that type.

Oil pressure is pegged at startup. I have yet to run this vehicle other than for the oil change and a short move when I bought it. I have to wait for the garage floor in my new shop to cure before I can get the 240d up on blocks and change the various fluids/filters and give it a good once over. The car is new to me and it has sat(garaged) for about 1 year.

Thank you all for your input.

J

Last edited by 79-240d-project; 10-18-2003 at 03:27 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 10-18-2003, 04:15 PM
Stevo's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: NW WA
Posts: 6,299
Welcome

You will find lots of info on fluid changes, valve adjustment, and general chit chat about the 240D in the archives. Great time to get your new shop on line, youl find your car easy to work on. Is it an auto or manual tranny? Color?
__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 10-18-2003, 10:58 PM
79-240d-project's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Pacific Northwest, Washington State
Posts: 253
Stevo,

1979 240D with manual trans. and a sunroof. It has 203000 miles on it and the body is in real good condition and the color is light yellow. No cracks in the dash and the interior is very clean. The car came from california about 2 years ago and has sat garaged for the last year here in Washington. The origional owner had it maintained at the dealership it was purchased. I have the record book with stamps and signatures up to 159,011 miles. The second owners maintenance habits are unknown.


Problems identified to date.

Valve adjustment. I have access to the tools, I think.

Need to rebuild vacuum pump. Engine will not shut off and brakes require lots of pressure to apply.

Sunroof needs maintenance. Opens and closes real slow.
www.**************.com has a sunroof maintenance kit and other nice kits with instructions at reasonable prices.

Battery tray shot. Need to work on this problem and get the cancer neutralized fast. I hear POR 15 works real good. Have yet to locate this product.

Antenna broken. No problem.

Fuel gauge not functioning. Will remove and attempt to clean but will probably need to replace.

Filters and fluids for the fuel system, man. trans., rear diff., brakes, radiator.

Trunk lid seal.

Door seals.

I am going to put in a block heater.

Anyother suggestions.

J
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 10-19-2003, 12:19 AM
Stevo's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: NW WA
Posts: 6,299
Good Score, she sounds very nice. The vac pump is an easy rebuild, just don't over tighten the screw, it doesn't take much. Why do you need a trunk seal? If its because the trunk is leaking its most likely the rear windshield seal. As to valve adjustment ..the bent tools are real handy but expensive, you can bend up your own. Fuel gauge is sometimes the sending unit under the first aid kit. Anyway when you start addressing these problems one at a time you can check the archives then ask the forum if you have a problem. Haynes manual is good for the basics, the CD can be had cheap on eBay. Block heaters are OK but getting that plug out above the starter can be a bear.... Your gona love worken on these cars. Oh .. the best upgrade I did on my pre "80s" cars was the fast glow plugs, you dont need a block heater with those, in western Wa anyway....check it out.
__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 10-19-2003, 01:29 AM
79-240d-project's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Pacific Northwest, Washington State
Posts: 253
Fast glow plugs?

Are these just new glow plugs or a special variety of glow plug?

If I replace the glow plugs I would want to get the glow plug reamer tool. I see performance products has them, they list 2 with a 100.00 price difference between the two. One at 49.89 and the other at 149.89. I wonder if it is only quality in the price difference.

J
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 10-19-2003, 10:57 AM
Stevo's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: NW WA
Posts: 6,299
J

Do a search on glow plugs and reamers. When I found this forum I plugged in "240D" and had enough informative reading for a couple of days. If I were you I would sort out the vac problem, get a Mity Vac (Harbor Freight is on 6th ave in Tacoma, where I got mine) and make sure the pump is in fact not working, adjust valves, change fluids and get her going. Good Luck

Steve
__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 10-19-2003, 11:35 AM
mb123mercedes
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Hi 79-240d-project.

For the POR15 try www.prp-porstore.com

Louis.

Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:22 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page