Bisric,

I never said dump the car. I said they were GREAT cars with a flawed engine. And that if the engine was fixed, it's a great engine too. Perhaps you should read what I wrote before slamming me. As to oil consumption, MB's official spec is one quart per 1000km, or ~650 miles. So yeah, whatever, you are "within spec". My point was that a good, tight OM603 should be in the 4-5kmi/quart range. It's not just mine, I know numerous other 603 owners who have the same consumption rate. These engines DO NOT burn a lot of oil. My old OM617 uses about 2500/qt, but for 617's, this is somewhat more normal (I have never heard of someone with a 617 getting more than 4-5k/qt). And yes I use Mobil synthetics (Delvac-1, specifially), with oil analysis at each change, which does let me go beyond your silly 5kmi limit. You should educate yourself before shouting. You just look like an idiot. Now go take your medication like the doctor ordered. Once again I repeat, it's a great car, and I just like to make sure that people are informed about the known problem with them... if you buy (or own one) with that knowledge, that's great, and I would never put down anyone for owning one - you included. Some owners do NOT know and that is why I mention it. I'd like to tell you what I really think of you and your "pissed off" attitude but the nice moderator would probably boot me from the forum, and well, you're not worth it.

BTW, for those of you who DID take your Ritalin: Although the main issue with 3.5's oil consumption is the bottom end problem, increased oil consumption can also be due to worn internal turbo seals. There is almost no way to tell for sure without replacing the turbo, AFAIK, as it just goes out the exhaust in tiny quantities that don't smoke. But I know at least one person who had their oil consumption drop drastically after the turbo was replaced on an OM603 (now back to the 4-5kmi range). Bad valve seals usually show up as blue smoke, and serious turbo or bottom end problems will also, but those are kinda rare.

Now back to your regularly scheduled programming. :p

__________________
Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

ok so maybe i deserve some of that - but it is frustrating - constantly having it pushed in your face. anyway, i have had a lemon of a benz - my '97 E300D. MB finally bought it back after a fight. It just seems to agree that 350 posts go bad quickly - I will drop the topic.

Anthony,

The idle speed is electronically controlled. There should be a trim plug somewhere on the car, numbered 1 through 7 (round knob). Pull it out, turn to 1, push in. Idle speed should drop to ~500. Pull out, turn to 7, push in. Idle speed should increase to 700+. If not, your ELR circuit is not working, and your car is idling at the pump's mechanical minimum idle (which it isn't supposed to). Idle speed should be something like 630rpm, I think. To test the ELR actuator on the pump, remove the connector, and BRIEFLY (like one second tops) apply 12 volts to the two terminals. Idle speed should jump up. If not, the actuator is probably bad. If it does, the signal to the actuator isn't getting through. My car had a broken wire at the connector, a quick re-solder job fixed that.

Rough idle problem: I would start with a Lubra Moly Diesel Purge treatment first, if the car has never had one. If that doesn't help, I'd pull all 6 injectors and have a diesel shop pop test them. If they're all OK (good spray pattern, etc) then the problem may be in the pump - delivery valve seal leaking or something like that. Last item is motor mounts (or first item, I guess). They don't often last more than 50-75kmi, so if they're not pretty recent, inspect them closely. The hydraulic type (round saucers) collapse and don't isolate vibration anymore, while looking fine externally. And yes, 1.0 ohms per glow plug means they're fine.

As to setting idle speed, injection timing, and anything else - you need the factory service manual. Myself (and others here) won't repeat the procedures for you. We'll help you if you don't understand them though. Either get the printed manuals off eBay, or get the CD-ROM (dealer or eBay).


HTH,

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Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

Hmmm... I suppose it's possible that the late W126 doesn't have the idle trim knob. I've never worked on one so I'm not sure. Anyone else know? On the 124 it's located near the brake master cylinder. Perhaps the 1990-up computers don't have the trim knob?

__________________
Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!