Right...thread it out or in? I've got the D half torn apart in the garage
dont have a digital camera though!!!

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1992 300TE 4matic - Just obtained 12/22/06
1983 300D - SOLD
1997 Dodge 2500 - CTD 400+HP, 1100ft/lbs torque

On the 603, it says turn to the left, which would be out, or CCW. I wouldn't go more than half-turn on a turbo engine without a pyrometer, unless you have an intercooler installed....

For what its worth, Boston Fuel Injection in Smithfield, RI told me they would turn up any pump I brought them as long as I signed the work order that it was what I wanted and they were not responsible for damages. RT

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84' Mercedes Benz 300D Anthracite/black, 171K
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I wonder if it's problematic to increase full load fuel volume and NOT turn up the max rpm speed as well. I would closely examine the OM617 and OM603 pdfs first and bump up the max speed while you're in there. The OM603 section tells you the amount the rpms will increase relative to turns of the nut.

Just be careful and document each turn of a screw or nut inside the governor. You may need to backtrack by following your crumbs...

I have a pryometer...but no intercooler. It's a beater car, if the temps are too high it will give me an excuse to put an intercooler on it

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1992 300TE 4matic - Just obtained 12/22/06
1983 300D - SOLD
1997 Dodge 2500 - CTD 400+HP, 1100ft/lbs torque

I think an OM617 could really benefit from an intercooler given the short distance between the turbo and intake manifold, and the lack of a crossflow head. In addition, you could install a dual stage water injection (WI) system to augment the intercooler and further cool down the charge air to help defeat the negative thermal effects of proximity to the exhaust stream. I'd sure love for one of you OM617 guys to actually pull this off. If you can turn up the fuel volume/max rpm, the rest should be relatively straight forward, provided you pay attention to details and don't try to cut too many corners.

If you do decide to move forward, please do us all a favor and perform some baseline assessments to help document the perported benefits of your modifications. Otherwise, the skeptics here will eat you alive.

Yup - based on the new info from Mauri, I think you can easily intercool enough to max out the pump and not worry about EGT's... probably get 150-160hp before the pump runs out of fuel to deliver. That should make for one peppy W123, especially since they have 3.07 axles...!

And yes, some kind of before/after data would be MUCH appreciated, even if it's just via stopwatch to 80mph or something, noting temperatures, etc...

Yeah it will probably be a stop watch from a dead stop to 60-70mph with detailed info as to what I have done.. I am also installing a gauge that will measure boost...It's not a full blown autometer or anything, but it is a digital display pressure switch that shows pressure...it will probably work for now. I havent really tweaked the wastegate as I have read that increasing boost doesnt really do anything...once the fuel is turned up I'm guessing that I will almost have to raise the boost in order to get rid of the excess fuel that is now present..
nobody has touched my other questions though....air to air or air to water intercooler?

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1992 300TE 4matic - Just obtained 12/22/06
1983 300D - SOLD
1997 Dodge 2500 - CTD 400+HP, 1100ft/lbs torque

You can leave the boost at the high end of stock settings, or ~14psi, for now. If you are getting smoke and EGT's are low enough, then turn up the boost. I don't think that will be a problem though. About the IC, I personally like air-to-air, since otherwise you have liquid plumbing to deal with, and then you have to cool the water - sounds like more work to me, with less benefit? I'd try to copy Ridge's setup if you could, it looked fabulous, I'm disapppointed he never increased the fuel delivery after all that top-notch mechanical fabrication...

That setup would not work for a W116 chassis because it has the batery behind the pass side headlight.

I still have not figured out how to do it on one of these.......just not much room.

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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

i have a 123 chassis..id love to see pics of that install!

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1992 300TE 4matic - Just obtained 12/22/06
1983 300D - SOLD
1997 Dodge 2500 - CTD 400+HP, 1100ft/lbs torque

Here's the thread on the OM617 intercooler install:

Intercooled 300DT Pictures

It was a fabulous job, but somehow he became convinced that power gains would come simply from cooler intake air, and no extra fuel was needed. Also note that his "baseline" included boost pressure below spec (probably 6-8psi) and then while the IC was installed, one of the changes was turning up the boost to spec (~12psi). He felt a big power increase and thought it was from the IC, but it was just from getting the car back to what it was at the factory - IMO. He refused to post any 0-60 data or anything else, which I believe is because it was no faster than the factory performance ratings, lol! All he has to do to make that thing tear up the pavement is adjust the full-load screw. **sigh**

AFAIK, the primary benefit of an air-to-liquid IC is it allows for shorter charge air plumbing and less boost pressure loss. Also, for track purposes under the right circumstances you can reduce inlet temps to below ambient levels when using ice water coolant. MB's tend to have very little room to mount an IC, so a air-to-liquid setup might actually be the best solution, especially if you don't want to alter the external sheetmetal. BUT, they're typically much more expensive than air-to-air versions.

Hmmm... yeah, what would a water-to-air IC cost? And where would we mount the water cooler...? I like the icewater idea for the dragstrip, but for most normal road use it seems like a more complex setup with questionable advantage...

I would never choose an air-water intercooler if I had to choose.

Think about it:
Air-water: air-300?*f, water-160to210*f
Air-air: air-300?*f, air-20*F to 110*f

Even in the hottest of days the air-air intercooler will do more to cool the air. Running ice water may work on the track VERY well, but for the daily grind, it is not at all practical.