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#16
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I agree with the positive turbo review.
I have five and am 2.5 years without a problem. Don
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DAILY DRIVERS: '84 300DT 298k (Aubrey's) '99.5 Jetta TDI IV 251k (Julie's) '97 Jetta TDI 127k (Amber's) '97 Jetta TDI 186k (Matt's) '96 Passat TDI 237k (Don's '84 300D 211k Mint (Arne- Undergoing Greasecar Conversion) SOLD: '82 240D 229k (Matt's - Converted-300DT w/ 4 speed |
#17
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I guess I don't understand the question. I have both a Turbo and N/A. Both have been troublefree. The turbo is nice because of the increased power and MPG. My turbo is in a 126 so the added size is nice on vacations. The N/A is better in my opinion around town where I plod around at speeds <55mph. The car is smaller, 123, so easier to manoeuvre. Without the vacuum modulated trans. it shift smoother as well. There is something about cruising in the 240D at 75mph and listening to the engine roar that makes me fall in love with the car all over again that I don't get at 90mph in the 300SD. Guess the 240D appeals to my primal side at that point.
Most importantly my girlfriend appreciates the 240D for its classic looks, smoother ride and ability to view the scenery before it whizzes pass. Different horses for differnt courses. Fred Johnson 1977 240D 1983 300SD Chicago
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Fred Johnson 1977 240D 1983 300SD |
#18
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Hi 85drtysthbenz.
Sorry not topic related. Nice car and stereo. What did you do with the old ported box? Louis. |
#19
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I guess it's a tie - NA is quick enough for some, turbo is troublefree enough for the rest.
You can ask the same question about MT vs AT and probably come up with a similar tie. Sixto 95 S420 91 300SE 87 300SDL 83 300SD |
#20
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I have both turbo and n/a and appreciate both cars for their great qualitites.
However, the power increase is well worth the extra complexity, and in reality if the climate control was half as reliable as the turbo has been, i'd have the perfect car--
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Nate Stanley (Currently Benzless) 1985 F-250 6.9l 170K 2009 SCION XB 36.5K 2003 LS430 78K 2012 Kubota B 2320 |
#21
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Quote:
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Keep everything as simple as possible-but no simpler--Albert Einstein |
#22
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Quote:
thanks for the compliment, louis....i ended up selling that box along with another sub that i had lying around on ebay recently....the box was too big for the trunk,and with it being vented,it rattled that absolute hell out of the trunk lid....i originally thought that could be due to the 1200 watts im pushing to the speaker, but i built myself a sealed enclosure,and it sounds a LOT better...it doesnt rattle much now,other than at really high volumes.....but if you were interested in getting one of those boxes, go check out www.bigdogaudio.com , i bought mine from them off of ebay,cost me 75 bucks shipped to my door |
#23
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There is no downside to the turbo engines. They make more power, get even better MPG (seriously), and have no major issues with the turbo hardware. The myth about needed to let the engine idle for a minute or more before shutdown is exactly that - a myth. Show me where it says that in the owner's manual and I'll eat my hat. Just don't climb Pike's Peak at full throttle then kill the engine when you reach the top. Running synthetic oil will further eliminate any heat soak issues.
Don't get any crazy ideas about adding a turbocharger to a non-turbo engine, all the internals are different. It's always cheaper to just buy a used turbo engine complete and swap that in, or even better yet, sell the non-turbo car and buy one that had it from the factory. While the boost is limited to 10-12psi (OM617) or 12-14psi (OM60x), you can add an intercooler, turn up the pump (internally), and get probably 20% more power safely and possibly run a little more boost. I've been dreaming about adding a Mosselman kit to my '87... mmmm.... |
#24
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#25
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In the owner's manual for my '87, on page 14, it says,
"Turning off If the coolant temperature is very high (e.g. after hard driving on mountain roads), do not shut off the engine immediately, allow it to run for 1-2 minutes at increased idle speed."
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1987 300SDL (324000) 1986 Porsche 951 (944 Turbo) (166000) 1978 Porsche 924 (99000) 1996 Nissan Pathfinder R50 (201000) |
#26
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Speedy,
Exactly. The MB turbo is oversized to the application and never really gets hot enough to worry about such things under NORMAL use. If you race, hill-climb, tow heavy trailers, etc... THEN perhaps you may need to consider doing this - but probably only if you run dino oil! I'm a strong proponent of using synthetic oils in general, but for turbocharged engines, I consider it an absolute requirement. |
#27
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Quote:
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#28
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Turbo timers and blow-off valves are items needed (or desired) on hot-rodded gas engines. Don't waste your money trying to mess with that stuff on an MB turbo. You can turn up the boost to the high side of factory spec if you want (that's free), but this doesn't always provide a power gain. My '84 makes no more power at 15psi than it does at 10psi... it just makes more heat!
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#29
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I wonder if you can get a turbo timer and a blow-off valve for the Mercedes diesel... My friends tune RX-7s and that's what they're constantly praising- turbo timers and blow off valves.
But like everyone says, the Mercedes Turbo is way better than a N/A in terms of performance and robustness.... |
#30
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Letting a marine diesel idle for a few minutes before shutting down is sop. Marine diesel's are run harder then a MB could ever be, so they develope a lot of heat and the turbo's really get moveing. I would think it would be a good idea to idle a MB for a minute before shutting it off, it couldn't hurt.
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