1980 300td wagon
any help on where to get a fluid resevoir for the auto level system would be greatly appreciated. also if any one has a photo of where it belongs under the hood, that would help me alot.
thank you
will

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'73 VW camper
'80 300td wagon

To find one, you could call a dealer or go to a junk yard. As far as where does it go, looking at the engine, left front. One quick question though, where did yours go?

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1999 MB SL500 (110,000 mi)
2004 Volvo V70 2.5T (220,000 mi)
2014 Tesla Model S 85 (136,000 mi)
MBCA member

the car came without it, all other equipment is there. i want to figure it out and see if it works.
thanks

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'73 VW camper
'80 300td wagon

Is the rear still stock (Hydropnumatic?)? Does it have a pump on the head (Under the top right radiator neck in the picture that the blue line connects to)?

If there is no tank (Far Left in the picture), there must be no fluid, and the pump might be fried if it's not removed or set in a short closed loop.

If there is no pump on the head there is no point in having the tank. If it has been converted to standard shocks/springs (How?) I would leave it as-is.

ANY of the suspension parts can be very expensive if you buy from anyplace but a salvage yard.

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you said exactly what i did not want to hear. yes the pump is there the rear end is still all hydronumatic. however, on the pump both connecting hoses are plugged up, not in a loop. so i assume the pump must be fried. i just came back from the junkyard and no luck, no tanks or correct style pumps.
thanks very much for the picture, now i know what i am looking for! Is ther a rebuilt kit for the pump, because i dont think i can dish out the $400 bucks for a new pump.

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'73 VW camper
'80 300td wagon

You might just have to connect everything when you get the tank to see if the pump is good. I would take the pump off the head and inspect it more closely. If it turns free with no resistance or does not turn at all, then I would not be happy. Check the drive geatr in the head to see if it is still there, sheered off, or otherwise damaged. The pump is a radial piston design that is lubed by the hydro fluid. I don't know if there is a rebuilt kit, it might be a "sealed pump."

How long has it been like this? Did you just drive it with the droopy rear end all this time? Have you ever bottomed out over a bump or hole (Body or suspension)?

There are several possible issues.

The pump has a seal that keeps the hydro oil from being forced into the engine and a connector that drive the pump from the engine. If the connector is still there, then the pump is not frozen, however at least the seal is shot and most likley the pump is toast from metal to metal friction. If the connector is not there, then it is anyones guess.

There is a group of o-rings that keep the hydro oil where it is suppose to be. If they are bad the thing will leak out and make a mess.

The pump is controlled by a height valve, which allows the constant hydo pressure to be directed into the shocks. If it doesn't go up and down and the shocks are not leaking, the valve is toast.

If the shocks leak they are toast.

They are a couple of round canisters, that control the dampening. If the car bounces bad, then they are toast.

Hope this helps.

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1980 300TD-T (82 Turbo and Trans) 159,000 Miles "Jackie-O"
1983 300SD 272,000 Miles "Aristotle"
1987 Jeep Wagoneer Limited - keeps the MB's off the ice and out of the snow
1994 BMW 530it

is there a rebuild possible for the leveler control valve..new one is ~ $350
i move mine up and down with car running and nothing happens
its' supposed to raise and lower the rear correct?

Yes, however first make sure the pump is moving hydro fluid. If there is no fluid pressure, then no matter if the valve works or not she can't go up and down.

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1980 300TD-T (82 Turbo and Trans) 159,000 Miles "Jackie-O"
1983 300SD 272,000 Miles "Aristotle"
1987 Jeep Wagoneer Limited - keeps the MB's off the ice and out of the snow
1994 BMW 530it

There is a manual bleeding valve on the top passenger side of the valve. The system is self bleeding but it must be there to drain the system pressure if you are working with something like the accumulators or struts. Turn on the engine and support the back with a jackstand(s) or blocks (Do not lift it) and open the bleeder a little. It should give a good stream of pressure. No pressure, no pumping.

Read here for the correct way to test system pressure:

http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/123_DISK2/program/123-cd-index.html

Look at 32 - 530 Checking pressure oil pump and level controller.

Hi luckys420.


Try www.mercedesdismantlers.com
or www.**************.com or
www.msdra.com for used parts.

Hope this helps.

Louis.

thanks for those sites, bad news for me though, i was wrong about the whole rear end being hydroneumatic, the shocks have been replaced with standard shocks. i discovered this when i decided to pull on the line that comes out of the little pressure can. only to discover it was not connected to anything.
thanks for all your help
so know i am looking for more parts
will

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'73 VW camper
'80 300td wagon

For the benefit of others who may look this up in the archives later, the late 123 chasis California cars have the hydraulic resevoir on the drivers side front. The air cleaner canister is on the passenger side.

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LRG
1987 300D Turbo 175K
2006 Toyota Prius, efficent but no soul
1985 300 TDT(130K miles of trouble free motoring)now sold

I believe there have been comments in the past about how difficult it is to convert the hydropneumatic system to a standard shocks. If you can describe how your converted system is set up, it might be helpful to others of us with wagons.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

85 model TDs have the reservoir on the driver's side of the engine compartment.

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.