1980 300D into 1982 240D AND I NEED HELP!
 

Donor and recipient cars are automatics. The 300D driveshaft has a bad center bearing on the driveshaft. The driveshaft has also been "tampered" with without taking care to keep everything lined-up. Not my doing. Would I be better off to have my 240D driveshaft shortened (it's in great shape) and balanced or do the repair work to the 300D driveshaft?

Is it absolutely necessary that I change the differential from the 300D to the 240D?

Is there anyone on this forum that can tell me if the 300D engine IS in fact a 1980 by these numbers, (617 912 12 106 286), stamped on the block above the oil filter housing?

Can I use the 240D oil cooler with this 300D engine?

Am I correct in assuming that the trans lines will need to be swapped from the 300D to the 240D? A/C lines?

Kevin

Hello? Anybody out there?
 

Guess I am on my own.

Oh well:(

Kevin

It's not as common a task as the routine maintenance things we talk about mostly.

Only thing I can remotely help you with is the driveshaft. From the manufacturer there are alignment markings on the two sections of the driveshaft. On the short section it is one short mark on one of the six sides where you fit a wrench (near the junction with the other section). On the long section it is two marks shaped like a portion of a V and I think they are on the yoke of the universal joint.

If I feel energetic later this weekend I'll get you a picture with these parts highlighted.

For my part, I would try replacing the center bearing and carrier mount on the 300D driveshaft - and get it put back together in alignment.

Its going to be pretty tough to shorten the 240D driveshaft and keep it strong and in balance.

Ken300D

Thanks ken!
 

I really appreciate the information. I also look forward to the picture.

Kevin

Hi Oilslick! Where in SC are you? I'm in Greenville. I swapped a 78 300D 5 cyl into a 78 240 without changing the differential. One of the forum members said the gear was probably a little lower in the 240 and would help on take-off. Seems fine to me. My situation was a little different than yours. I also swapped the auto from the 300 into the previously 4 spd 240 which was a little more trouble. I pulled the 5 cyl with the AT still attached and dropped them into the 240. Then just moved the entire driveshaft over to the 240. Wiring the AT to work in the 4 spd 240 was tough but the forum members were a tremendous help.:D

Where in G'ville?
 

Just moved from there about 2 years ago- Berea!

I live in Seneca now!

Kevin

Oilslick:

Take the rad from the 300, it's bigger. Re-align the driveshaft if that is possible, and replace the center bearing and carrier. Or get another driveshaft, it's far cheaper to get a used on it good shape than mess about with shortening and balancing the one from the 240.

You will need to move the tranny crossmember back, too.

I'd swap the rear end, too, otherwise you will be burning too much fuel. Change the speedos over, and swap the gear on the end of the speedo drive to keep the correct speedometer reading.

Peter

Let me ask you guys this question.
 

Since the driveshaft from the 240D is in great shape and the one from the 300D is not (bad center bearing and bushing) could I not just swap the center bearing and bushing from the 240 to the 300 driveshaft? Possible?

psfred,

Are the drive axles from the 300 the same as the 240? My 240 needed one axle so I thought I might swap out that whole assembly since I am doing a major task now. BTW, thanks for your info.

Kevin

I believe the center bearing and support are the same between the 240D and 300D, so you could swap them. The difficulty I have always had is in getting the bearing/support assembly off in one piece. My puller tends to rip off the outer shell of the support first, then I have to go back and get a grip on the bearing itself. You'd have to have a way to grip the bearing directly, even with the larger support surrounding it.

Here's a fuzzy picture of the alignment marks. I haven't got the hang of close-up focusing yet: The two marks on the U-joint yoke are easy to see. The one mark on the wrench flat on the short driveshaft section is harder to see.

Ken300D

Many, many thanks!
 

I really appreciate that! I will be working on it in the morning. I will be rolling in a new timing chain as well. Any advice?

Kevin

If you are working alone, make sure to secure both ends of the chain while chaninge clamps, wires, whatever.

I was lucky when I dropped the slack end, it piled up on top of the crank and I could fish it back up. You may not be!

Also, if you always keep the chain on the sproket, it's easier to get the ends to match -- takes quite a bit of pull to get the new (and oily!) chain up to correct position if it wasn't there.

Ditto for the pulled side, too -- you can goof up the injeciton timing if the chain slips.

Peter

Here is the way I did it. Have a bunch of tie wraps handy and take your time.

The two tie wraps/section as shown is overkill for rolling it in. In this shot I had the new chain in and the old one out and was in the process of getting ready to remove the center tie wrap and install the link.

Master link
 

Someone once mentioned that the master link for a gasser chain fits loose enough to use as a temporary link while rolling in the new chain. Then you can remove it easily and use the peened link to finish teh job.

To roll it in I just use a master link with the "locking" clip. After getting the new one in place I remove that temporary clip and install the permanent one that gets "peened" or fastened in place with the chain crimping tool.

Jim,
Exactly, I think that was the reference to the gasser version of the link.

Master link with e-clips will work fine, or you can do what I did -- press the old link I ground the pins down on back on. You can also use the new center bar, it fits VERY tight. Very unlikely to come off while you are pulling the chain around.

Peter

Got the chain in!
 

My wife helped me!:eek: She did great! Everything went together beautifully. Now the TDC mark on the cam tower is dead-on with the TDC mark on the balancer.

Now I will install new valve seals and a diaphram in the vacuum pump and then on to the driveshaft. Btw, someone had boogered with the driveshaft and it was not clamped together so when I removed it from the donor car it came out in two pieces. Two UNMARKED pieces I should say. I didn't even think to check to see if the large clamping nut was tight before I pulled on it. Now what do I do? I have every bit of confidence in the world that I can replace the center bearing and mount but I can't see ANY markings, factory or otherwise, on either section of the driveshaft.

Kevin:rolleyes:

Here's what's next. Any advice?
 

1. Valve seals- Been there done that! EASY

2. Water Pump- Been there done that! EASY

3. Replace diaphram style vacuum pump with piston style.

4. New seal rings for the injectors- precautionary, cheap
and easy!

5. Set start of delivery for IP, Drip Method- Not so sure
about that!

6. Adapt oil separator from '82 240D to '80 300D. I wish I had
a newer style upper oil pan. Unchartered waters for me!

If there is anything else you guys can think of that I might need to do while this engine is out and on the stand then please let me know (other than rebuild). The more I can do to this engine while it is out the better.

Kevin

You could probably help me out with a few more comments on how you replaced the valve stem oil seals. The tools involved, procedure, etc.

Ken300D

Kevin:

I just completed a project that has a few similarities and I can offer a little bit of advice here and there:

1. I would opt for a differential from a 300. I left the one in from my 240 (donar car) and it is screaming at 70 mph. It has a 300DT to push it (and a manual). Gets out of the hole nice but doesn't have anywhere to go. Apparently the '85 had the best ratio for a differential. Eventually I'll throw the one in from my mangled '83 300D simply because I have it and its free.

2. I echo what someone else said. Get a different driveshaft unless you are certain you can fix your center bearing issue. Mine also came apart (unmarked) and I was fortunate, because 1000 miles on the road so far and its working well.

3. Regarding radiator and oil cooler:

a. I put the larger one in from the 300 along with its oil cooler mate and i'm please with it.
b. On another of my 300D's, I just replaced the radiator with one from a euro 300 and didn't pay attention enough to its size. It ended up being wider so I also had to replace the oil cooler with a narrower one. This may prove to be a bummer once summer comes. But summer only comes between July 7 and July 14 in Michigan.

4. Can't help with the transmission cooler lines. I simply cut mine cuz its now a manual.

Don

Ken300D,
 

On the valve stem seals you DON'T have to pump air pressure into the cylinder to keep the valves from falling. Just use common sense.

1. Remove the valve cover & rocker arm assemblies and keep
up with where they go. Do not mix match! My .02 cents!

2. Rotate the engine clockwise until the cylinder you are
working on has both valves CLOSED (cam lobes up for
the valve you are working on).

3. Take a long bar (long wrench will do) and lay it flat across
the top of the valve stem asjusting nut and press down( one
hand on each end of the wrench) until you are sure that the
valve "bottoms out" on the piston top. Keep in mind that the
valve spring has NOT been removed yet so you will need to
press with some force. Once you have determined that the
valve is not going to fall down into the cylinder then you can
disassemble the valve stem nuts and spring only for the
valve you are working on. You can remove the two valve
stem assemblies for that cylinder but I prefer to work on one
thing at a time. Less to lose or screw up!

4. Remove the old seal. I used needle nosed pliers. The
old seals will come off with some mild persuasion.

5. Place the protective seeve (which SHOULD come with your
new seals) over the valve stem and then place the new seal
over the stem as well and press the new seals into place.

6. Move to you next valve (rinse, lather, repeat:D ).

I am sure that someone has a better, more "engineered" ( no offense to any engineers out there) way of doing this but this works for me. Please note, I will add that on #3 in MY procedure you can rotate the engine SLOWLY to achieve a higher "bottom out" position. Make sure it's clockwise and NO valve springs are removed. The valve will rest on the piston top while you work on it.

Kevin

Found a 4-speed manual for this car but...
 

I need to know which driveshaft to use.

Again, I am transplanting a 300D N/A into a 240D chassis. I have a 300D driveshaft and a 240D driveshaft. Which one?

I bought an '81 240D (broke timing chain) with a 4-speed manual and have ALL the parts to do the swap but really wanted some clear answers on the driveshaft.

I know this is the place to get answers. ;)

Kevin