Hang on... so you're saying that you don't have to open the rear diff to change the axle???

I suppose that'd work but if you didn't get it all the way on wouldn't it go flying again? I'd still have a grip on them when they fought, so yes you can do without. Perhaps there are better tools out there for the job but I only spent about $3 on mine and they got it done well. While it isn't how they intended the c-clip pliers to work, but it got the job done none the less.

Yes you have to take the cover off to take the c-clips off regardless of the tool you choose to use.

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Jeff M.
Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here.
1983 / 1984 300D Sold
2000 CLK430 Cabriolet ~58k Sold
2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k

Funny, I had no problem at all removing or installing the clips with needlenose pliers. Needlenose visegrips may be a better choice if you really want a secure grip on the clip. RT

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When all else fails, vote from the rooftops!
84' Mercedes Benz 300D Anthracite/black, 171K
03' Volkswagen Jetta TDI blue/black, 93K
93' Chevrolet C2500HD ExCab 6.5TD, Two-tone blue, 252K

So, it seems I'll be taking off the diff cover. The drain and fill plugs, what size hex thing do they need. The diff cover itself, a gasket or just used sealant? I've not had to do a lot of work on either of my 300's yet and don't have a set of hex key sockets. I was planning to but a set I saw at Loew's from 5mm to 14mm I think, abt 20 bucks. The mount that I'll be removing from the diff, is it a rubber mount and should I just plan on putting in a new one? Will I need new nuts for bolting the axle back into the hub? I'm pretty sure once I start this job, I'll not be too afraid of the task, but I want to plan ahead so I get the old sucker back on the road quickly. Drove it 80 miles today and no noise, go figure. The boots, all 4, are split, insides are dry and dirty so I am definitely going to need to do both.

Hmm I'd guess they are about 14mm but I'm not sure of that. $20 sounds a bit steep, I think I got mine for less than $10 at a local tool shop. The ones used for the cover need to be beefy as you'll probably end up using a breaker bar on them. No gasket available, just use a light coating of sealant. The mount is rubber, you don't have to replace it, it is up to you. No new nuts needed anywhere, everything is bolts. I just used some blue locktite on the bolts for everything, I figure I'd rather have locktite on the threads than rust. Also whatever you take apart has it from the factory so it must be doing something useful.

__________________
Jeff M.
Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here.
1983 / 1984 300D Sold
2000 CLK430 Cabriolet ~58k Sold
2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k

I'd leave the mount on the cover unless you are replacing it!@

It can be stubborn to remove. You can get a wrench to all the bolts. Top ones, the diff gets lowered slightly.


Michael

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Michael McGuire
83 300d
01 vw A4 TDI
66 Chevy Corsa
68 GMC V6 w/oD
86 300E