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  #1  
Old 12-01-2003, 11:52 PM
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Brake Lining Wear *Indicator* '97 E300

I'm assuming that this means it's time for pad replacement?

This indication comes on sporadically as of sunday.

My front rotors look to be in good shape and no real vibrations while braking, but by hearing that these rotors are usually "soft" I'll be looking at replacing the pads, sensors and rotors.

What equipment would you guys recommend? Slotted rotors maybe? I travel about 3-400 miles per week at max and usually in suburban areas. My E has 139k on her and have no idea what was done last time the brakes were serviced. How much longer would be an educated guess to the pads lasting? If I go all OEM parts I'll probably order them from the Benzbin.Com or the like.

I would need:
Pads
Sensors
Rotors?

What have I missed?

I've seen some Zimmerman cross-drilled rotors that would fit. Anyone install these on any of their vehicles? I'm leaning towards these over the "Brembo's" on Ebay. The Brembo's on Ebay look homemade.

What pads would you guys recommend? Textar, ATE, Pagid, PBR

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Old 12-02-2003, 06:22 AM
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If the rotors have not been changed at that mileage I feel pretty certain that you will need to replace them. If they are ok (above minimum thinkness) I would leave them alone. Either way you are going to want to replace the pads, sensors, and clean/inspect and repack the front wheel bearings. All of this is pretty easy/straight forward diy'er type of work. Before you purchase from Bizben compare the cost to FastLane - see the link at the top of the page.
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Old 12-02-2003, 08:57 AM
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Michakaveli, why the interest in slotted rotors? Are you unhappy with the current braking performance, or is this just for the looks? Slotted rotors create more problems than they solve, so the best bet here is OEM rotors unless you really need a performance upgrade.

Please consider Fastlane for your parts, as purchases there support this forum. You'll need pads, sensors, brake pad paste, and possibly rotors. See the DIY section for an excellent writeup on how to change brake pads. Rotors are hardly any more work - an extra bolt to remove the whole caliper plus an allen bolt to remove the rotor.

It's been a while since I did this, but I think the kit from the dealer includes new caliper mounting bolts. They do that because the bolts have LocTite already applied. So if you reuse the old bolts, be sure to apply some blue LocTite.

Jim, why do you say repack the front bearings? Just on principle? On a W210 the rotors just pull off, not like the W123 where you have to take the hub off and remove the rotor from the back.
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Old 12-02-2003, 11:42 AM
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Rick, sorry I meant the cross-drilled, not the slotted...

Here they are off the FastLane store... They also look cool....
Zimmerman rotors. If I did decide all OEM replacements, which rotors and pads would you recommend off the FastLane store?

Thanks for your feedback Rick
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Old 12-02-2003, 12:38 PM
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Oh, geez. Drilled is worse than slotted! They crack at the holes. On a car like ours, the only thing those rotors are good for is trapping debris and dragging it across your brake pads!

Sorry, I can't make a brand recommendation. I bought my last set from the dealer. Call Phil at Fastlane, I'm sure he can help. Don't forget the paste!
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  #6  
Old 12-02-2003, 12:51 PM
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thanx rick..... OEM rotors it is...
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Old 12-02-2003, 01:39 PM
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I bought Textar brake pads for my '97 at Fastlane. I've been very happy with them. It's a real easy job.

Scott
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Old 12-02-2003, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rick Miley
Oh, geez. Drilled is worse than slotted! They crack at the holes. On a car like ours, the only thing those rotors are good for is trapping debris and dragging it across your brake pads!

Sorry, I can't make a brand recommendation. I bought my last set from the dealer. Call Phil at Fastlane, I'm sure he can help. Don't forget the paste!
What is this brake pad paste I see that you are recommending? Where is it applied and why is it needed?

Thanx
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Old 12-02-2003, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by michakaveli
What is this brake pad paste I see that you are recommending? Where is it applied and why is it needed?
This tells me you did not do the homework I gave you earlier.

Quote:
Originally posted by Rick Miley
See the DIY section for an excellent writeup on how to change brake pads.
Click the "DIY" button at the very top of the page, and then look for "E Class Brake Pad Replacement." Bill Wood, the webmaster, has taken the time and trouble to document the entire W210 procedure for you along with excellent pictures.

The paste keeps the pads from squealing.
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  #10  
Old 12-02-2003, 04:29 PM
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Brake pad paste

I reverse-engineered some of the original MB brake pad paste. I'm convinced it is just a repackaged copper neversieze compound (the micron-sized copper particles gave it away), very similar to the Permatex brand antisieze compound now widely available in auto stores. It's applied to the back of the brake pads and acts as an antisquealing compound.

It's also been reported this stuff should be used only if the back of the brake pad has the circular pattern of dimples to act as a reservoir and hold the paste. I think it's also a good idea to put a dab in the slots of the caliper where the pad sits in, after the slots are thoroughly cleaned with a wire brush.

Stay away from cross drilled or slotted rotors, unless you have a special need for them.
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Old 12-02-2003, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Jim, why do you say repack the front bearings? Just on principle?
I guess out of habit as much as anything else. I like to be able to inspect them from time to time and just take the opportunity whenever I have to remove a brake caliper.
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Old 12-03-2003, 08:56 AM
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It's more than just habit. Grease breaks down from heat... seals wear... sometimes water and debris get past the seals further degrading lubrication.
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  #13  
Old 12-04-2003, 05:37 PM
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Took some pix of the brakes up front and they do look tired. I also noticed my sway bar bushings are tired looking as well. I don't know exactly what it's called, I'm assuming they are the subframe bushings?

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  #14  
Old 12-05-2003, 10:39 AM
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Danger Will Robinson!!!

Be carefull about packing those bearings on w210's.
I have had 2 clients do it themselves and remove the original
MB grease. The bearings failed shortly thereafter.
We have no set service interval for "bearing service" since you
do not need to remove the hubs to replace the rotors like on the
older cars.
I was told bearings are service free. ( just like the .6 trans, yikes!)
I know we don't even stock the grease seals.
I have done the bearings on my E55 and E300 without harm, but
I had to get the O.E. bearing grease from Mobil Germany.
It was Mobil SHC220 "Mobilith Synthetic Lubricating Grease".

Good luck and have fun.
Dr.D
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  #15  
Old 12-05-2003, 06:50 PM
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Re: Danger Will Robinson!!!

Quote:
Originally posted by DR.DIESEL
Be carefull about packing those bearings on w210's.
I have had 2 clients do it themselves and remove the original
MB grease. The bearings failed shortly thereafter.
We have no set service interval for "bearing service" since you
do not need to remove the hubs to replace the rotors like on the
older cars.
I was told bearings are service free. ( just like the .6 trans, yikes!)
I know we don't even stock the grease seals.
I have done the bearings on my E55 and E300 without harm, but
I had to get the O.E. bearing grease from Mobil Germany.
It was Mobil SHC220 "Mobilith Synthetic Lubricating Grease".

Good luck and have fun.
Dr.D
On that note.... the hubs will not be touched

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