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  #46  
Old 01-05-2004, 12:05 PM
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I'm constantly amazed at the amount of bandwidth associated with the oil threads. I've never seen a topic where so many people are so convinced that brand x is fantastic and brand y is garbage.

Has ANYONE here EVER had a engine problem that was related to using an inferior quality oil? I'd be interested in hearing WHAT failed and HOW you know it was due to faulty/bad oil.

If you use an oil that is approved by the factory and change it according to the factory maintenance schedule your engine will last for far more miles than rest of your car!!

Maybe we could start a new thread - how about this one...

what is the "best" toilet paper??

Sorry - just had to vent.

Tim
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  #47  
Old 01-05-2004, 12:11 PM
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I agree almost 100%
Except two issues:

-Marshall Booth's statement that using synth reduces timing chain stretch
-The fact that MPG improves with some oils (particularly synthetic)

Different oils certainly have specific properties which help it excel. Some do better than others, but I think its more having to do with the above reasons rather than an engine wearing out.

Im sure people have gotten 300K+ miles on their engines using whatever API S series oils that were at wal-mart, without even worrying about anything besides viscosity.

Its a very multifaceted argument, with lots of options in brands, additive packages, compositions, weights... Its like going into an ice cream parlor and thinking that youd like to try every flavor. Some might be better than others, but any will make you contenct and be a nice desert.

JMH
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Own:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (162k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1998 Chevrolet S-10 ZR2 (62K)
2011 BMW 135i cv (14k)
2014 Honda Odyssey (6k)
2015 Honda Accord Hybrid (5k)
Had:
2008 VW Rabbit (70k)
2004 SAAB 9-3 (83k)
1991 BMW 318i (183K)
1983 300D (228K) (wrecked by at-fault uninsured driver)
1985 300D (233K) (now in FL)
1994 Acura Integra (188k) (Rusted out)
1992 Toyota 4Runner (72k) (Rusted out)
1990 Daihatsu Rocky (??) (No parts)
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  #48  
Old 01-05-2004, 12:47 PM
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Tim has a valid point in general. Like JMH mentioned, you can use crap oil, and probably still get 300k out of the engine if you change the crap oil frequently enough. It boils down to what you want. If engine longevity is the ONLY concern, fine. But some people would prefer some of the more subjective benefits of "botique" oils, i.e. synthetics:

1- Extended drains if desired - less frequent service needed
2- Faster cranking - huge help in cold climates
3- Lower operating temps - for both oil & coolant
4- Higher MPG - ok, this is small, but adds up over time (synth ATF & diff lube help too)
5- Reduced wear? - This is arguable, compared with FREQUENT changes of cheap oil


I want those benefits and choose the oil that provides them. You won't get that from $1/qt Wal-Mart special. But the total engine life may be the same, or not different enough to see a difference, assuming you sell the car BEFORE the engine blows up!
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1997 E420 - 155kmi (Bugeyes)
1994 E420 - 145kmi (Blondie)
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1992 400E - 189kmi (Stinky Dirty)
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  #49  
Old 01-05-2004, 12:55 PM
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Delvac 1 5W-40. A fuels/lubes chemist I used to work with when I was in Diesel engine engineering convinced me it is the best.
Just switched from Rotella T.
Am now driving 2000+ miles per month.
Plan to get oil analysis at around 8000 miles. If still OK, will go to 10k mile drain interval.
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  #50  
Old 01-05-2004, 02:54 PM
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If I got 300k out of an engine useing $1qt. Walmart oil I would be pretty happy. How many people have actually had an oil related engine falure? The only time people ever have oil problems is if they never change it. As long as the oil is close to the proper weight and the proper API grade for your application, and is changed you will never have an oil problem.
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  #51  
Old 01-05-2004, 08:18 PM
ForcedInduction
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Quote:
Originally posted by Hatterasguy
$1qt. Walmart oil I would be pretty happy.
15W-40 diesel oil In Wal-Mart SuperTech is $0.88/QT here.
I still would not use it, ecen in a lawn mower.
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  #52  
Old 01-05-2004, 08:27 PM
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Last I heard wal-mart oil was made at the same blending plant that quaker state was being made at. Probably more or less the same additive package.
Quaker state's additive package isnt the most robust though... But people have gotten 2-300K+ on their engines using it (not sure about using it in diesels though, but they do make a diesel oil).

QS is in the same company as pennzoil, and a lube engineer from the company that posts on an oil board I frequent has said that the QS additives arent as good as the pz... And virgin oil analysis shows that. What it means in the long run? Maybe less oil consumption or a little less fuel being used...

JMH
__________________
Own:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (162k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1998 Chevrolet S-10 ZR2 (62K)
2011 BMW 135i cv (14k)
2014 Honda Odyssey (6k)
2015 Honda Accord Hybrid (5k)
Had:
2008 VW Rabbit (70k)
2004 SAAB 9-3 (83k)
1991 BMW 318i (183K)
1983 300D (228K) (wrecked by at-fault uninsured driver)
1985 300D (233K) (now in FL)
1994 Acura Integra (188k) (Rusted out)
1992 Toyota 4Runner (72k) (Rusted out)
1990 Daihatsu Rocky (??) (No parts)
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  #53  
Old 01-06-2004, 10:54 AM
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just and FYI...

i was able to purchase a 2gallon Jug of Walmart 15w40 C-rated oil for about $10. the jug was useful for the used oil as well.

btw, the manual says my 82 240d needs 6.9 qts. i assume the 300d's uses 8qts. is that correct?
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  #54  
Old 01-06-2004, 12:25 PM
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Jennifer,

The OM617 turbo engine fill quanitity is, IIRC, 7.9 quarts (7.5 liters). That usually puts the level near the maximum mark on the dipstick. Some engine burn off that top quart pretty fast, then stay in the middle, other's don't. If your engine is like that, put in a quart less. The OM603 turbo engines (3.0L six-cylinder from 86-up) take 8.0 quarts, after a TSB from MB reduced the fill quantity from what the owner's manual originally said (8.5qts).

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Dave M.
Boise, ID

1997 E420 - 155kmi (Bugeyes)
1994 E420 - 145kmi (Blondie)
1993 500E - 193kmi (Lollipop)
1992 400E - 189kmi (Stinky Dirty)
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!
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