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  #1  
Old 12-06-2003, 06:50 PM
JHZR2's Avatar
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Location: New Jersey
Posts: 3,871
Valve adjustment on OM617 - should they be this far off???

Hi,

Because I couldnt figutre how to get the turbo off of my 83 300D with my tools, I tackled the valve adjustment myself this weekend, for the first time. I had it done twice so far, once by the dealer, once by an MB only independent. I used the thomaspin directions, and all went pretty well.
I had a few issues with the directions, but my real question mainly is, how far will valves usually get off in 15-20K?
First, my issue with thomaspin's directions:
-His order of valves for the 617 is different from what I experienced. From checking at TDC, the order I adjusted in was (from the front of the engine): 4,2,8,3,9,7,5,10,1,6. This is fidderent from his instructions. Looking at cam lobes isnt that hard, and I cant say that I messed it up, because I never had the same valve up and in position twice. What gives?????

Second, my valves were as follows (from the front of the engine):
1 (E): 0.356mm
2 (I): .302mm!!!, changed to 0.102mm
3 (I): 0.20mm, changed to 0.102mm
4 (E): 0.406mm, changed to 0.356mm
5 (E): 0.456, changed to 0.356
6 (I): 0.127, changed to 0.102
7 (I):0.102
8 (E): 0.483!!!, changed to 0.356
9 (E): 0.356
10 (I):0.127, changed to 0.102

All values being the sizes of my feeler gauge set.

Some of those were way loose... Didnt see ANY that were tight, as I would have expected due to wear. What gives with this?

My car usually required a quick shot of the starter, after glowing in sub freezing weather. It was maybe one turn, or one cylinder compression (whatever happens when it makes its noise just once). Now after sitting two days in sub freezing weather from oding the adjustment and not driving, I started it, and I didnt even hear the starter after glowing it.
So I think the valves were off a bit....

Any ideas why they would loosen so much? Should I worry about taking my car to the people that did it last, since the values were so far off on some of the valves?

Thanks for any info.

JMH
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Own:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (162k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1998 Chevrolet S-10 ZR2 (62K)
2011 BMW 135i cv (14k)
2014 Honda Odyssey (6k)
2015 Honda Accord Hybrid (5k)
Had:
2008 VW Rabbit (70k)
2004 SAAB 9-3 (83k)
1991 BMW 318i (183K)
1983 300D (228K) (wrecked by at-fault uninsured driver)
1985 300D (233K) (now in FL)
1994 Acura Integra (188k) (Rusted out)
1992 Toyota 4Runner (72k) (Rusted out)
1990 Daihatsu Rocky (??) (No parts)
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  #2  
Old 12-06-2003, 08:03 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: northern Calif
Posts: 72
if i am reading you post correctly, your car now starts sooner than it did befor? that is great! and yes, the gap settings can be that far off.
i am assuming you did the adjustments with a cold engine.........
sounds like all went well. BILL
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Gretchen 1981 240D 4-spd 213,000 mi
1979 240D 4-spd 298,000 mi parts car

1994 BMW 325is
1991 Dodge turbo diesel
1997 ford expedition

BILL
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  #3  
Old 12-06-2003, 09:23 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: NW WA
Posts: 6,286
I dont think your valves should be very far out after 15 or 20K . If they were WAY tight when you had it done the first time then they should be checked again fairly soon but you said they were adjusted twice before, in which case they should not have been too far out. What I do is on a clip board draw your valves and label them "ex" or "in" by looking at the manifold and check them off as you do them. I turn the engine with the steering pump bolt (clockwise only).
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1985 Euro 300TD 5 spd 220K
1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 130K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
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  #4  
Old 12-06-2003, 10:39 PM
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Location: New Jersey
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yeah... definitely starts slightly sooner (not that it ever needed more than one crank to start), but now I barely ever hear the starter when starting after running the glow plugs until the light goes out. I think its because the loose valves effected compression a bit, and it was a slight factor when cold... I know the car should start as it does now because it used to, and I recall in another thread PEH says about one of his cars barely needs to touch the starter to get it going... Plus its only around freezing, thats not bad even for diesels...

As for stevos post, I turned the engine a few rotations via the crankshaft first before adjusting (as per thomaspins DIY page), then went at it... they werent way tight, some were way loose, not a single one was tight (which I hear is normal, that in relaity 20 or 25 k san still have the valves right in spec). I actually used the method you suggest! Worked well for keeping track!

JMH
__________________
Own:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (162k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1998 Chevrolet S-10 ZR2 (62K)
2011 BMW 135i cv (14k)
2014 Honda Odyssey (6k)
2015 Honda Accord Hybrid (5k)
Had:
2008 VW Rabbit (70k)
2004 SAAB 9-3 (83k)
1991 BMW 318i (183K)
1983 300D (228K) (wrecked by at-fault uninsured driver)
1985 300D (233K) (now in FL)
1994 Acura Integra (188k) (Rusted out)
1992 Toyota 4Runner (72k) (Rusted out)
1990 Daihatsu Rocky (??) (No parts)
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