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  #1  
Old 12-22-2003, 10:33 AM
djoyce93
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Just got a 300 sdl

I just brought home a 300 sdl that I picked up in Atlanta. It is rust free and only has 82000 miles on it! The power seats only work when the doors are open. Any ideas how I can fix this? Thanks.

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  #2  
Old 12-22-2003, 11:10 AM
djoyce93
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Smile

Hey! someone out there must know!!
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  #3  
Old 12-22-2003, 11:16 AM
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Sounds like a grounding problem

I don't have specific knowledge of this problem, but in my experience, about 90% of all automotive electrical problems are grounding related. Check the grounds for the power seat and for the door first. (The pin in the door jamb might be a good place to start looking). Check for voltage at the power seat motor, and check for continuity of the grounding of the motor. Also check the power windows for proper operation, and the dome light as well.

SteveM.
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Old 12-22-2003, 11:31 AM
The Bob
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I would do a search on power seats and diode.

You probably have a bad diode

The diode in my 87 300d is in the rear of the fuse box encased in a gray little box.

It pushes into the fuse box behind all the relays. You may have to remove the combination relay to get it out.

Pull it off. Pry it open Note the direction or orientation of the diode. use a soldering gun to remove and replace the diode.

The part number is on one of the earlier posts you can get it at radio shack for about 2 bucks.

THat could be it.



good luck

bob c
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  #5  
Old 12-22-2003, 11:33 AM
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The power seats should work either with the driver's door open or with the key in running position. If it doesn't work with the key on, then I think the problem is with the driver's door switch. I had that on a 190E, but it was several years ago. Try searching for "power seat" in the Tech Help section.
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  #6  
Old 12-22-2003, 11:47 AM
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Diode

You will probably find the diode is bad just as it is in my SDL. Decided not to fix the problem as it "child proofs" the seats from adventurist children who like to take seat rides. If a rider or myself needs to have a seat adjustment simply open the door (before moving) and make the adjustment. And the kids are none the wiser.

You are going to love the SDL
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  #7  
Old 12-22-2003, 12:11 PM
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Classic diode module problem.

It's in the rear of the fuse box where all the relays are located. I think you have to take out some screws and remove the cover to the back half of the fuse box.

The diode module is a bit smaller than the other modules, and only has two pins.

Its either electrically bad (blown) or physically cracked.

The module can be carefully disassembled and a new diode put in its place. Just about any generic diode will work.

Ken300D
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Old 12-22-2003, 08:52 PM
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On a completely different topic, I'd replace the vacuum pump as preventive maintenance ASAP. The original design was flawed, and when they die, they can dump parts into the timing chain and turn your engine into a doorstop. It's not common but it has happened. The new vac pumps are easy to spot, in case yours has already been done... the new type has four Torx-head screws on the front cover, like in this photo:

http://www.meimann.com/images/mercedes/head_gasket/vac_pump1.jpg

I assume the trap oxidizer has been removed (if it came with it - most 86 models didn't), and you'll want to disabled the EGR and ARV immediately. Other than that, watch the temp gauge, it should run at 80-95C most of the time, if it's over 100C you need to fix the cooling system. Fan clutch is a common failure, ditto internal radiator corrosion, assuming the fins are clean and airflow is good. You need to be super careful about this as the 86/87 heads were weak and don't tolerate overheating at all! OK, ok, last tip and I'll shut up. Feed the car synthetic oil (Mobil-1 15W-50) and it will thank you for it. That keeps the hydraulic lifters quiet and has a plethora of other benefits as well.

Congrats on the new, low-miles ride, btw!

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